SHO wont turn over!?!?

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notdrphang

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Om my car was running great all day... I came home from school parked it in the usual spot in the driveway. My mom said the car would not start when she tried to go somewhere in it. I figure it was just some sort of fluke, so I go try to fire her up. Low and behold the darn thing will not turn over....I can hear the starter spin but it is not catching. What is going on here? The car ran perfect today! This is weird. I dont think it is the battery.
 

twr

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half-way there, I think.
I'd say your starter is toast. You can try tapping it with a hammer while it is spinning, that sometimes works for a temporary fix to move it or drive someplace to have it repaired. Also should be able to push start it.

<small>[ December 04, 2002, 05:08 PM: Message edited by: twrsho ]</small>
 

notdrphang

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where can I get a good starter from for a decent price? what does sdpatt recomend? wink

thanks guys!
Adam S.
 

projectSHO89

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Check your discount auto parts store. I paid around 55-60 bucks for one from Autozone last winter for my 89.

Steve
 

RTStabler51

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I think duralast are junk but we each have our own. I prefer Advance Autos, I think I paid around 40 for mt LLW.

but sounds like your bendix is sticking.....

SHO91MTX:
being a 91, go with the duralast starter from autozone. It is $55 with a lifetime warranty.
 

sdpatt

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Search Keys: engine no start definitions

Let's make sure we are talking about the same thing. For failures to start, the terminology has been quite confusing in the past. Here is an attempt to standardize the no-start terminology. This will be edited as required or desired by feedback for future reference.

If you turn the ignition key and nothing happens; no click from the starter solenoid and no operation of the starter, that would be referred to as "no stater operation" or "not turning over." The engine is physically not being rotated by the starter's efforts. This could be caused by low battery voltage, bad connections from the battery to the starter solenoid or starter, starter motor failure or ignition switch failure.

If you turn the key and the starter spins, but the starter pinion does not engage the flywheel to rotate the engine, that would be called a "starter engagement failure" and is caused by a physical failure of the starter pinion.

If you turn the key and the starter tries to rotate the engine, but doesn't have enough electrical power to rotate it enough revolutions or rapid enough to allow it to start, that would be a "weak starter motor" or "slow starter speed" condition. This could be caused by low battery, bad connections or failing starter motor.

If you turn the key and the starter spins the engine, but the engine will not produce spark or fuel to create combustion to continue spinning on its own, that would be referred to as "not firing." In this case the starter is spinning the engine, but the engine will not fire and run on its own. This could be caused by the lack of spark, fuel or air or combination of these.

If you turn the key and the starter spins the engine and the engine fires inconsistently, but not enough to continue spinning on its own, that would be referred to as "firing, but not starting or running." In this case the starter is spinning the engine and the engine is getting some fuel, spark and air, but not enough to allow the engine to continue running on its own. This could be caused by limited or inconsistent fuel, spark or air.

If the engine actually starts and runs for a short time before stopping, It "started, but could not continue running." This would also be caused by limited or inconsistent fuel, spark or air.

With these definitions, which are you experiencing?
 

93nighthawk

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It's pretty much straight forward, just remember to disconect the neg bat cable, safety first. I would say it would only take about a 1/2 hour to complete the job.

Eric
 

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