Sho not idling seems like its surging

[89SilverSHO]

I FINALY got my SHO to idle/run (YAY! ) today and now its Surging starts up on second key turn idles off the bat nicely but like a milisecond later it jumps from 1k to about 1.3k and drops to nearly .5k. What could cause this?
Sometimes after it drops down from 1.5k to .5k and then dies i go to restart it and it backfires through the intake Lots o Smoke. Ideas?

Also... not to vear off the subject too far its also knocking from the (1,2,3) cylinder side. Bad plugs / wires?

If it helps any this is what i have done to it so far:
Crank Sensor CPS
Cam Sensor CID
Water Pump
Timing Belt (old one seemed to be new no signes of cracking or dryrot)
Thermostat
Temp Sensor
Cold Air Induction w/ Ram Air Kit
Injector Seats, O-Rings
Intake Gaskets
Valve Cover Gaskets

Special thanks to Munkee for the motivational thoughts to get my injectors to stop leaking Thanks went to local HW store and found O-Rings comparable to the original ones i took off, worked like a charm.

<small>[ April 27, 2003, 07:21 PM: Message edited by: 89SilverSHO ]</small>

 

[SHOtimer]

Well, if you don't know how old the plugs/wires are they should be replaced. The idle problem could be solved with the idle relearn procedure ( use the search for it and you will find it), if that doesn,t work try cleaning the IAB, (search for that also), and if that doesn't work you might need to replace the IAB. The knocking could be bad. You might need to look into the fact that you could possibly have "crank cancer", or just bad rod bearings. Hope this helps,
Doug

 

[Blast7]

I would run the codes because when I had this problem I had a KOEO code that indicated both my HEGO sensors were not working. I replaced the O2 sensors and no more stalling or bouncing idle.

 

[sdpatt]

The signals from the oxygen sensors are not used by the engine control system until the engine temperature has incerased into the NORMAL range so they aren't causing this problem. The surging idle can be caused by a worn or corroded position feedback coil in the idle air control valve. It can also be aggravated by a vacuum leak.

The backfire and knocking can both be caused by leaking spark plug wires, but this is a significant concern also.

 

[89SilverSHO]

Just put in new plugs, wires and cleaned IAC assembly. Now when trying to start the car all you hear is popping coming out of the intake (backfire) so hard infact it blew my airfilter off (wasnt clamped down but still thats hard) Im am at a total loss... Does anyone know how to fix?

Codes: 41, 66, 91

<small>[ April 28, 2003, 08:01 PM: Message edited by: 89SilverSHO ]</small>

 

[SHOtimer]

Are you sure you put the wires on in the correct order, it seems simple but it has happened to the best of SHO owners. If you are using the Chiltons manual it tells you to put them in the wrong order. I don't have the pattern on hand but a search will reveal the order. Also, did you use the correct motorcraft plugs and wires?
Doug

<small>[ April 28, 2003, 08:20 PM: Message edited by: SHOtimer ]</small>

 

[jasonty]

Sounds like the camshaft syncronization sensor to me. Especially the "2nd turn of the key it starts" My SHO does this too. My junk SHO doesn't. Once I replaced the sensor (years ago) it stopped. But now, it's back... Damn that sensor...

 

[89SilverSHO]

Doug;
I bought Boch Platnum Plugs and Wires I dont have a chiltons i have mitchels on-demand but it says (Looking at engine Back 1,2,3 front 4,5,6

"Sounds like the camshaft syncronization sensor"

Im lost.... CID or Camshaft Position Sensor? That I replaced before that the car would not idle at all, yesterday it was just a up and down idle from 1.5k down to about .4k and drops out if it goes to low. Today like i said earlier, it wont start because its intake backfiring.

<small>[ April 28, 2003, 10:45 PM: Message edited by: 89SilverSHO ]</small>

 

[munkee]

If you look on the top of the coil pack, there should be numbers stamped on there to identify which cylinder that wire runs to. It's in ink so it wears off sometimes. The order on the coil pack should be 123-465, which throws a lot of people off even when they know about it. It sounds like a timing issue and I am pretty sure from previous posts for my own problems that when the cam sensor goes bad it will just cause a hard start, not idling problems. When you did the timing belt, are you positive the #1 cylinder was at tdc? The first 60k I did I didn't have it tdc and I had similar problems. I usually put a screwdriver in #1 and turn the crank just to be sure. Hopefully it is just a wire out of place.
P.S. Glad to hear you got the injectors fixed. thumb

 

[SHOtimer]

The CID sensor and camshaft position sensor are the same sensor. Your bosch plugs and wires might be an issue. The only plugs and wires made that work properly in the SHO motor are motorcraft ones. It really sounds like you put the wires on the coil pack in the wrong order, because and intake backfire means a plug is firing at the wrong time, which would be caused by an improperly placed wire.

The cylinders are numbered like this on the engine if you are facing it from the front.

1 2 3
4 5 6

the wires on the coil pack should look like this


5 1
6 2
4 3

double check that and see if it is your problem. Really hope this helps,
Doug