SHO No Start

[chrispx]

Hey all, I'm new to the site.

I have '93 and I think that the CPS is on it's way out. The engine will crank and just barely catch. Light and rapid pumping on the accelerator keeps it running for 20 seconds at about 250-500 RPM but it won't rev past that. I replaced the fuel pump this weekend (pita) and all was well until tonight. After the fuel pump install it ran fine, but now it's no-go. This behavior / symptom is familiar. It did this about 3 years ago before and I replaced the CPS and crank seal. I don't think that there is a leak at the water pump so the "coolant on the CPS" answer doesn't fit. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help

Chris

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

does the tach move when it cranks?

 

[SHO--ripper]

Welcome to the forum. thumb Your problem sounds more like a fuel issue than a CPS. A CPS failure would be you were driving the car stalls(tach drops to 0). You let the car sit for 15-20 mins and it restarts. Check your codes and your fuel pressure. thumb

 

[bflosho]

Does your Check engine light come on?Maybe a dumb question but did you change the fuel filter along w/ the pump?

 

[chrispx]

Thanks for the suggestions. I let the car sit overnight and it started on the first try this morning and ran fine on the drive home tonight.

The tach registered last night as the engine turned over so I guess that the CPS might not be the culprit. It almost seems like it was vapor-locking. I've never heard of a SHO doing so but that's what it was like.

Like I said, it has done this same thing before, but there was never any consistancy to it. It could happen after a long drive or after a quick run to the store. After I changed out the CPS while fixing a main seal leak the problem went away (3 years now).

What error codes might I be looking for when I go through it this weekend?


Chris

 

[bflosho]

Code 214 error in cylinder ID...meaning your camshaft position sensor is faulty or has a bad connection.

 

[stevetatro]

If I was a gambling man I'd put money on the CID.

Does it tend to start fine when cold but have problems when warm? That's what mine did when the CID went bad.

Lucky for you it's a cheap part and relatively easy to replace!

Good luck.

 

[chrispx]

Well I ran the codes and found that there was a primary and secondary fuel pump relay failure. Went to the dealer and picked up the part ($131.00) it's not just a simple fuel pump relay you know......... did the install and everything seems OK. We'll see.

Chris

 

[masho95]

Sorry to hear to you already spent the money on the relay part. Those codes especially the 542 are thrown after the car has stalled out, in your case when the car wasn't running. Because of the fact you just replaced the fuel pump and it was running fine up to that point, that's where I would have started to check things out. Did you prime the fuel pump multiple times before trying to start it? Did it run ok right after the fuel pump install?

 

[chrispx]

I primed the pump properly and the car ran fine after the pump install.
I put a fuel pressure tester on after stalling and there was no pressure. It really seems like a faulty relay is the cause. One moment nothing, the pump is not running, no fuel pressure. Try again 2 seconds later and I get pressure and the engine starts. Shut it down and try again and get nothing. It's an intermittent thing, really hard to nail down because of the inconsistancy. After the relay install, it started up right away, ran fine, and did so many times. The only way to really check is to drive it and see if it stops running again.

Fingers crossed.

 

[Christopher Floyd]

I had the exact same problem and replaced my fuel pump as you did. I still had the same symptoms after replacing the pump. The actual cause turned out to be my fuel filter.
There is also another possible cause for your problem - the following is from a ford TSB:
ISSUE
Some vehicles using winter blend fuels may exhibit a stall on start up and a no restart, hard start condition or a no start condition in unseasonably hot weather (greater than 27°C/80°F). These concerns may be related to fuel volatility from winter blend fuels during winter-spring and autumn-winter transitions and may result in a fuel pump vapor lock condition. This condition may appear to be a fuel pump failure but may be caused by winter blend fuel.

ACTION
Refer to the following text for further information.

NOTE FUEL TANK ADDITIVES WILL NOT RESOLVE THESE CONCERNS BECAUSE VAPOR FORMS FROM CAVITATION WITHIN THE FUEL PUMP.

FILLING THE TANK TO FULL MAY BE EFFECTIVE. ADVISE CUSTOMER TO USE THE RECOMMENDED OCTANE GRADE PER OWNER MANUAL AND NOT A HIGHER GRADE.

Explain to the customer that this concern may be due to a low tank level of winter blend fuel combined with unseasonably warm weather. Advise customer that filling the fuel tank to full may be effective in resolving this concern. Also, advise customer to use the recommended octane grade per their Owner Manual and not a higher grade.

BACKGROUND
Gasolines are seasonally adjusted, meaning they have higher volatility (vaporize easier) in the winter and lower volatility in the summer. Government mandates to improve air quality have resulted in significant changes to gasolines, such as the mandatory use of oxygenates (ethanol, methyl tertiary butyl ether (MTBE), and others) in the winter or the reduction of Reid Vapor Pressure (RVP) in the summer. The addition of oxygenates (especially ethanol) increases volatility while the reduction of RVP reduces volatility.

Gasoline distribution practices often do not allow branded marketers to have much control over their gasoline's volatility other than RVP. Oxygenate (e.g., ethanol, MTBE) use is more dependent on local gasoline markets, rather than specific marketers practice. Therefore, it is difficult to recommend specific brands to avoid volatility related complaints.

Usually around september the winter blends are introduced.