SFB's what other options other than AL?

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ryein7

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ok well long story short i DONT want to do AL subframe bushings. i want to know what other options i have other than AL and stock. i have read about delrin bushings but apparently those had cracking problems. i dunno if anyone makes urethane or TPR bushings? i am basically looking for any other options. are the 3rd gen ones really that much better? if so what is the for part number. i understand i would need 4 rears right? :thankyou:
 

SASHO91

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I've ran both AL and the GenIII bushings.. I love my AL and will never change them, but the GenIII's are very good as well. Tightens the front up, and doesn't transmit the same NVH as the AL do... but I also like the NVH the ALSFB's give the car.
 

spazmoid

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I've got the 3gen bushings and i love them. Your right about using 4 rear bushings and the dealer will be able to find them easily, just make sure they know you just want 4 rears. It took the dealer i went to 3 tries to get the right style (2nd/3rd gen) They will tighten up the front end nicely and i payed about 15 for each
 

ryein7

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ok so when i go to ford i need to get 4 rear subframe bushings for a 1996 taurus SHO. they were only 15 bucks each? do they require any modification to get them to work? do they come with a new top part? do they bolt in with those 4 little bolts like the sotck ones do? sorry i am asking all these questions this is my daily driver and i cant have it down for long :)
thanks
 

Lorenr

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Subframe bushings

I was not looking for a harsh ride in my 1989, but the aluminum sub frame bushings are the second greatest improvement I've made to the car.

The first was doing the routine maintenance correctly.

:salute:
 

spazmoid

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They should come with both halves but not with new bolts. You can reuse your old ones as long as you don't break any. They don't require modification, hopefully your car has had the subframe recall done. I'm not sure if it won't work without that being done but i think the captured nut that the bolt tightens into might be different. Get a friend to help you and check out the phenix sho web site for the how-to. Do not use an air ratchet if you can help it, you can easily screw up the "nut" which is more like a plate on the inside of the frame rail, and under the carpet. I ended up spinning one of mine free and had to cut part of the ac system out to get my hand into the access hole. Luckily the ac didn't work and i had no plans on fixing it. Make sure you clean all the rust and stuff off the surfaces that the bushings are gonna touch and buy yourself some front sway bar bushings as you'll be able to change them while the subframe is dropped. Lastly mine were 15 each but its gonna depend on each dealer and when i checked places like rockauto they either didn't have them or they were the wrong ones. Don't hesitate to ask any more questions
 

ryein7

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ok i thought you had to have some sort of notch or something cut to use the 3rd gen ones. my car honestly is not really rusty at all the bushings are mostly crap but there is no rust problems. so i will HAVE to do the subframe recall if i loosen those long bolts? is that because the nut wilil spin? or should i just be careful when loosening so as to not break the nut loose? So the same procedure should be used as seen on sho phoenix? is the material harder in the gen III bushings than our stock bushings?
 

spazmoid

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The material is harder and i think they have more metal, therefore less movement of the subframe and more direct steering feel and acceleration. Your right about the notch thing, all you gotta go is grind off the notches on the bushing with a dremel or something like that and they will fit right into the frame. When you go to loosen the bolts just be very careful so you don't break the nuts loose. They seem to be just held in will small notches and if you bend the notch or stopper they will spin and then you have to get your hand in there to try and hold it. Its a good idea to use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts too, something like 90ft-lbs but check the how-to for that. Someone else will have to chime in about the recall kit. I know mine was done but i'm not sure if just the nuts are different on a car that didn't have it done or what. If you look under the passenger footwell carpet and pull the little plastic cover off you can see the nut and then figure out how it works. It's always easier for me to understand how it works after seeing it.
 

ryein7

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ok sounds good. when you did yours did you follow the instructions on sho phoenix exactly? it seems downright easy for the most part. i am going to call around and see if i can get those bushings for a decent price. the only thing that has me worried now is those nuts spinning free... that would suck. thanks again for the help ill post pics when i get the 3rd gen bushings in hand just to verify..

EDIT: i just called my local ford place and they said 75 bucks per bushing...
 
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spazmoid

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o damn thats crazy, check with them if thats for a pair, it might be i don't remember. And i did follow the directions pretty closely
 

SHOZ123

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Ford has got to make money somewhere. They were ~$23 a set in 2003........
 

SHO_DOODmorrris

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wasent there a thread a while ago about ford's inflation prices on parts and how there was like a 250% increase on some stupid things?

also for 75$ a piece you may as well buy aftermarket ones!
 

sandrew

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Gen 3 rear bushing part #'s (assuming you're using the rears at all 4 corners - the fronts are kinda soft)

YF1Z-5400155-AA lower part of the bushing (need 4) $15.29/ea at fastpartsnetwork
F6DZ-5400396-A upper part of the bushing (need 4) $12.09/ea at fastpartsnetwork

= $109.52 + shipping
 
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itwonder

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I used the Gen III "isolators" and I am very happy with them. Much improved over originals. I would not want any more noise or vibration on a daily driver like mine, so I'm glad I did not go Al.

directfordparts.com did well for me. Less expensive overall than fast partsnetwork after shipping is considered.
 

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