Was gunna change out subframe bushings and when i jacked up the car and set the car back down on subframe with jack stands the rear. Passenger subframe bolt to the unibody i heard it cracking as in rust cracking up top can i fix this or is it junk please help i just got this car and i want to keep it
serious problem help!!!!
- Thread starter gosho1991
- Start date
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quite possibly you can save it, there was a recall for repair of the rear subframe mount area in rust prone states. I don't recall the recall number, but you can likely find the details if you search for it.
So are you saying the uni-body is rusted out or the subframe? In either case you can cut out the infected area and weld in new metal. If the subframe is rusted out you can replace it. We have good rust free ones at SHO Source.
sperold
Last to Know
It is an involved process, but it can be saved with very little money, if you have access to a welder.
You have to strip out your floor mats on the passenger side which takes longer than you think.
Then you put lots of penetrating oil on the exposed threads of the bolt you are turning on the subframe, you may need to heat up the captured nut you will be able to see from the top. Getting the bolt out is the hard part.
Then you get to invent a new piece of metal with the captured nut on it, and weld it in place, then douce it with seam sealer so the rust can't get started again.
Once you fix it, it will not be a problem again.
You have to strip out your floor mats on the passenger side which takes longer than you think.
Then you put lots of penetrating oil on the exposed threads of the bolt you are turning on the subframe, you may need to heat up the captured nut you will be able to see from the top. Getting the bolt out is the hard part.
Then you get to invent a new piece of metal with the captured nut on it, and weld it in place, then douce it with seam sealer so the rust can't get started again.
Once you fix it, it will not be a problem again.
sperold
Last to Know
You would be better off making a new one yourself. I used metal that was less than 1/8" thick, bent it into shape and had it welded in place. I did not remove the subframe, just loosend it off enough to get the metal in place.
Use lots of seam sealer to keep the rust from starting again.
Removing the bolt is the hard part, once you have that done, the job is pretty well over.
The front unibody hard point (from Ford) is a miserable attempt at a frame member, and it doesn't take much to improve it. Since you will have the carpet pulled back, you can strengthen the whole area from the top side if you are nervous about your underside fix.
Use lots of seam sealer to keep the rust from starting again.
Removing the bolt is the hard part, once you have that done, the job is pretty well over.
The front unibody hard point (from Ford) is a miserable attempt at a frame member, and it doesn't take much to improve it. Since you will have the carpet pulled back, you can strengthen the whole area from the top side if you are nervous about your underside fix.
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Thank you guys tooj the car to ford and hopefully i get a call for the fre fix because the recall was done crappy if not i will do what u think is correct sperold i was trying to trade it off but i will fix it i love the car so if im doing one side should i do both sides while im at it so its done and overwith probably??
sperold
Last to Know
No, just do the side that is bad.
Put lots of seam sealer around the other side to keep the rot from setting in, while you have the bolt out.
You may as well pick the car up from Ford as they won't fix it under any kind of recall warranty, no matter how crappy the work was done. You have to get used to doing things yourself on your car, because everywhere you take it, they will recommend you quit putting money in it, and buy something even more like crap from them.
It will be A1 after you fix it. You just have to find a friend to do the welding (and maybe one to get the metal), but once it is done, you won't have to deal with it again. And it doesn't have to be a pretty fix as no one will ever see it.
Put lots of seam sealer around the other side to keep the rot from setting in, while you have the bolt out.
You may as well pick the car up from Ford as they won't fix it under any kind of recall warranty, no matter how crappy the work was done. You have to get used to doing things yourself on your car, because everywhere you take it, they will recommend you quit putting money in it, and buy something even more like crap from them.
It will be A1 after you fix it. You just have to find a friend to do the welding (and maybe one to get the metal), but once it is done, you won't have to deal with it again. And it doesn't have to be a pretty fix as no one will ever see it.
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And just drop the back bolts completly outand grind down surface around mounting point and weld a plate correct i still have to change front subframe bushings so can i get away with just dropping the front og the subframe on it to replace them or will i have to drop whole thing down like my original plan
sperold
Last to Know
Keep it simple and do one side at a time, unless you have a good reason to remove the subframe.
It took me half a day to just get the carpet out of the way, so the whole job takes a few more hours. It really depends on how easily your bolts come out. With mine, I had to heat the nut contraption that you see through the hole in the firewall, so it became a longer job. But I live where rust is king and everything is difficult.
If you want to grind down the metal in the area of the repair, that is up to you. I concentrated on making my replacement piece of metal with the hole in it for the subframe bolt, and squeezing it between the subframe and the unibody. You can get the sides to curl up and touch what is left of your original structure and weld it in place along the sides. You can shine that section up to make a good weld connection.
Depending on how your floor looks in the general vicinity of the frame hat section shape, you can add a strap of metal on the top (under the carpet) in that area to strenghten the area if you are nervous of the the strength of your repair. I did not do that in my case, but that is up to you, when you see the condition when you pull the carpet up.
The whole job doesnot take long once the carpet is out, the new piece is shaped, and you have the subframe bolts out.
It took me half a day to just get the carpet out of the way, so the whole job takes a few more hours. It really depends on how easily your bolts come out. With mine, I had to heat the nut contraption that you see through the hole in the firewall, so it became a longer job. But I live where rust is king and everything is difficult.
If you want to grind down the metal in the area of the repair, that is up to you. I concentrated on making my replacement piece of metal with the hole in it for the subframe bolt, and squeezing it between the subframe and the unibody. You can get the sides to curl up and touch what is left of your original structure and weld it in place along the sides. You can shine that section up to make a good weld connection.
Depending on how your floor looks in the general vicinity of the frame hat section shape, you can add a strap of metal on the top (under the carpet) in that area to strenghten the area if you are nervous of the the strength of your repair. I did not do that in my case, but that is up to you, when you see the condition when you pull the carpet up.
The whole job doesnot take long once the carpet is out, the new piece is shaped, and you have the subframe bolts out.
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