RiceeatingSHO
Travis R
Should I be able to see my secondary butterflies open up when I rev my engine at the TB? I revved it to way past 4 grand and never saw them click open. I also reach over and open them manually and never hear a difference.
Secondaries
- Thread starter RiceeatingSHO
- Start date
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SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
shit, if you dont hear anything take that silencer cone out! lol but yeah you should be able to see the little arm on the vaccume canister move when its above 4k.
-Mitch
-Mitch
I had that removed and a SHO Shop cold air intake, neither helped. I've found the ones that do have a "whoosh" sound when they open, are the slower ones.
RiceeatingSHO
Travis R
My silencer cone is gone. What worried me was not being able to see them open. Not too important right now. I guess they're working as I still have great power.
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hawkeye18
Sorta cares
The Secondaries are naturally open with no vacuum applied. When you turn the engine on, the vacuum will shut the secondaries.
When you hit ~4000rpm, the EEC will power the IMRC solenoid, shutting the vacuum off and opening the butterflies.
This is a safety/comfort feature; running air through the short runners under 4000rpm will not **** HP nearly as bad as running air through the long runners above 4000rpm will.
If you have lost vacuum (cracked line) or the IMRC solenoid is bad (between the huge vacuum boss and where the EGR would be if you don't have it on the back of the intake; it has two vacuum lines and one connector, it's not the can looking thing, that's the reservoir), the secondaries will simply always stay open.
Even with the secondaries not closing, it will only feel doggy until about 3700 rpm, then it will behave as normal.
I can send you wiring diagrams and replacement and/or troubleshooting directions if you would like. I cannot post anything possibly proprietary here for legal reasons. Hope you understand...
When you hit ~4000rpm, the EEC will power the IMRC solenoid, shutting the vacuum off and opening the butterflies.
This is a safety/comfort feature; running air through the short runners under 4000rpm will not **** HP nearly as bad as running air through the long runners above 4000rpm will.
If you have lost vacuum (cracked line) or the IMRC solenoid is bad (between the huge vacuum boss and where the EGR would be if you don't have it on the back of the intake; it has two vacuum lines and one connector, it's not the can looking thing, that's the reservoir), the secondaries will simply always stay open.
Even with the secondaries not closing, it will only feel doggy until about 3700 rpm, then it will behave as normal.
I can send you wiring diagrams and replacement and/or troubleshooting directions if you would like. I cannot post anything possibly proprietary here for legal reasons. Hope you understand...
RiceeatingSHO
Travis R
Understood. I think it may be ok though. I will shoot you a PM if I find anything weird.
When I tested mine I was in the drivers seat looking through the hood opening (hood up of course ) When I hit 4 grand I could see the arm open the butterflies.
) When I hit 4 grand I could see the arm open the butterflies.
Yes using the throttle at the TB will open them. You can also test them individually by removing the vacuum supply from each actuator. Don't pay attention to the sound, pay attention to the arm on the actuator, which was previously stated.
I had one gunked up but freed it by squirting some WD-40 into the hole where the arm goes into the actuator.
I had one gunked up but freed it by squirting some WD-40 into the hole where the arm goes into the actuator.
RiceeatingSHO
Travis R
Fixed. I had the lines swapped on the canister. They open up just fine now! To think of all the cars I've beat with my secondaries open on launch. it's like tourque management! lol
ok no.
ok no.
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
you mean they close up just fine now lol. its not that much of a loss, i think we killed that horse a while back
-Mitch
-Mitch
Swantum Leap
New Member
Secondaries rock! lol
RiceeatingSHO
Travis R
you mean they close up just fine now lol. its not that much of a loss, i think we killed that horse a while back
-Mitch
Yeah, they close...sorry. it does seem to help me going up hills in higher gear. But who knows...
Joe_Cool
SHO Member
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'd be grateful for the diagrams and troubleshooting/replacement directions. :wave:
dantheman68
Kinda Big deal
Try being a bit more specific... what exactly is the problem... its kinda hard to just come up with everything and throw it up there and guessing what you need. I have had some problems with secondaries, and alot of info, so perhaps I could help out.
Joe_Cool
SHO Member
Same problem that the thread is about. Secondaries are not operating. They don't close when the engine starts up, so they don't re-open at high rpm.
shoclown
shoclown
if they were not working wouldnt you feel it power wise???
Off Road SHO
Moderator
If they don't close, wouldn't that mean that they are already open?
The secondary actuator solenoid is hot with 12 volts as soon as you turn on the key. It's a red wire and you can check to make sure you have that 12 volts with a VOM or a test light hooked to ground.
The other wire receives a ground (to complete the circuit and make the valve open) from the PCM at around 3950 rpms. You can also check that you are getting that ground with the same VOM or test light (this time hooked to the positive terminal of the battery).
A common problem is hooking the little U shaped vacuum hose up to the wrong ****** on the vacuum canister on the rear plenum. There is a one way valve inside that black canister, which of course only works one way. There are colored paint dots next to each ****** to help in figuring which is which. I think there is a vacuum hose routing diagram on the plastic cover over the fan shroud.
Good luck.
Tom
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Joe_Cool
SHO Member
Yes. They're ALWAYS open. As I understand it, they're supposed to close when you start the engine and then open at high rpm.
Where is it located, and what does it look like? I have a circuit tester, I just don't know what I'm looking for.
Thanks for the info.
Joe_Cool
SHO Member
Ok, I traced the hoses and found the stuff that makes it go.
I disconnected the main hose and sucked on it, and the secondaries operated.
Switched the two hoses going into the solenoid module, no change. So I put them back.
Disconnected the power plug going into it, and got 12.4 volts when the ignition was on.
Pulled the solenoid from my parts car, installed it, and BINGO.
All fixed now. Thanks, guys.
I disconnected the main hose and sucked on it, and the secondaries operated.
Switched the two hoses going into the solenoid module, no change. So I put them back.
Disconnected the power plug going into it, and got 12.4 volts when the ignition was on.
Pulled the solenoid from my parts car, installed it, and BINGO.
All fixed now. Thanks, guys.
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