running very badly

[Andrew Tilson]

not sure what to do with the little devil, she idles fine but has no power\backfires a lot below 2500 rpm, from there to 4 grand it seems about normal, at 4k it falls flat on its face, you can hear the secondaries open but there is actually less power than while they were shut. it still is throwing a spout code(219), I checked the spout circuit by the cam sensor but on my wiring diagram it shows a second spout check connector is this my problem? does anyone know where to find it?

btw car has new cps, timing belt, plugs and wires and DIS module

 

[Chrisssssssss]

sounds like your timing may be off... I would check that first. Since you just did your timing belt, then make sure that you have your timing registration correct.

 

[SolidState]

Sounds kinda like my car, except mine still seems to have its lowend guts....it just doesn't pull as hard over 4k rpm as it did...

 

[Andrew Tilson]

I guess I'll tear into it again next weekend , I just put a new belt in it after the old one slipped, it ran awesome for about three days and then it started doing this to me, is it possible I might have slipped it again you think?

<small>[ July 26, 2002, 05:44 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Tilson ]</small>

 

[SolidState]

I don't really know the car that well, so....

what kind of shape was the timing belt tensioner in?

 

[Andrew Tilson]

seemed ok to me pulley spun freely strong spring tension

<small>[ July 26, 2002, 05:45 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Tilson ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

Andrew, is your car a 3.0L or 3.2L? To get backfires, the intake valves must be open when the sparks fires with a combustible mixture in the cylinder. That indicates that the timing belt is not aligned properly. If it ran good before and then started this behavior, the belt must have skipped. If that has happened, you might want to get a new belt before tearing into the front end of the engine again. The current one may have been weakened by the slippage. The tensioner would be at fault. Let me know which engine you have and I can give you possible failure scenarios.

 

[Andrew Tilson]

it was a new belt, I have the 3.0

<small>[ July 26, 2002, 05:46 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Tilson ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

What procedure did you follow when you tensioned the belt? The textbook procedure is to install the belt and release the tensioner's 14mm bolt to allow the spring to load the pulley against the belt. Reinstall the timing belt covers with the door removed from the middle cover. Reinstall the damper. Rotate the crankshaft almost two complete revolutions in the clockwise direction until the first, yellow mark on the damper aligns with the "0" mark on the lower timing belt cover. This sets the engine to 60 degrees BTDC on the number one cylinder. This also places the most load on the belt between the crankshaft and the camshafts. This combination creates the greatest amount of slack in the tesioner side of the belt and is the position where you now tighten the tensioner's bolt to 25-37 lb-ft. Reinstall the door on the middle belt cover. You can retension the belt without taking anything off the assembled engine except for the door over the tensioner's bolt, but if the belt has slipped....

Scott

 

[Andrew Tilson]

I am missing the zero mark on the timing cover it has been gone since I got the car, so I just guessed it was about zero, is it that critical?

<small>[ July 26, 2002, 05:45 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Tilson ]</small>

 

[Andrew Tilson]

well I have it apart (again) the timing marks all line up, so that's not the problem is there anything else that will throw the timing off enough to make it run this bad?? with my timing light the mark is so far off I can't even see it

<small>[ July 26, 2002, 05:44 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Tilson ]</small>

 

[projectSHO89]

Andrew

Make sure you pulled the SPOUT connector before checking the timng.

Steve

 

[Andrew Tilson]

ok now I have most of the thing apart, I have found a nasty couple of oil leaks, a seal at the CID sensor, and also my oil pan is leaking, how difficult are these to fix (I think the oil pan is going to be a bitch)

<small>[ July 27, 2002, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Tilson ]</small>

 

[projectSHO89]

The CID seal (camshaft actually) is a bastard to get to. At instructions from Sergio, I loosened both lower engine mount bolts (front and rear) from the sub-frame and jacked the engine up so I could get to it. I already had the y-pipe dropped and the passenger side halfshaft out. FWIW, that also made the front end 60K easier, I had that side of the engine up and down more than an elevator.

The 2 center cam seals require that you remove the cam gears and inner upper timing cover.

At least my old car doesn't leak anymore!

Steve
89