Rotora's Finally In

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studio460

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Sorry to over-complicate this! Let's start over.

1. Find a set of 1/2x20 5x4.5 spacers in your desired thickness with a bore of 63.4mm (your Taurus' factory wheel-hub diameter).
2. Measure the bore-diameter of your aftermarket-wheel using a micrometer.
3. Buy an aluminum hub-centric ring (no lip) of 63.4mm to XXmm of your wheel's bore.

That's it!

My troubles began because I ordered two different 63.4mm-bore spacers: One was out-of-spec (too small by 0.5mm), and one was simply the totally wrong size (70mm+). You could order one from another Amazon seller, or get a set from Bonoss; though, they're very pricey (x4 Amazon prices), but their spacers are hugely over-spec'd and their email communication is excellent (that said, I would be fine with spacers from Amazon). Before you start your journey I advise getting a metal micrometer off Amazon.

Note that sellers' inventory varies widely on Amazon, almost daily. If you don't find the items in the correct sizes one day, check back a few days later or even the next day.

Problems to avoid:

1. Avoid plastic hub-centric rings. Every plastic ring I bought (including ones from Circuit Performance) had a lip for some reason which prevents 100%-contact with the entire wheel-surface (at least with my particular wheel). I bought two different brands of aluminum rings; i.e., Circuit Performance and Wheel Connect (a generic brand), and neither brand had a lip. Both fit my wheel and hub perfectly.
2. Use Permatex anti-seize to make re-dos easier (available at Harbor Freight).
3. Be careful not to strip the head of the #10 Torx retaining screw in the rotor.
4. Don't cut off your factory studs unless 100% sure it's necessary.
5. Perform final torque "in the air" just to be 100% sure your wheel components are centered.

Note: Many size-combinations of hub-centric rings simply cannot be found. Even on Circuit Performance's own site, many sizes are omitted from the drop-down selection box, even the ones sent to me by WheelHero (aftermarket wheel vendor).

Final thoughts: Although I thought I was a fairly smart guy, I found this whole exercise utterly confusing because of the many variables. I couldn't get my head around the various issues until I had the actual parts in my hands and test-fitted them all together in my lap.
 
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studio460

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First test drive!

1. Noticed loud scraping noise on front-right (doh! I put one pad in backwards!).
2. Noticed chatter on rear-right (double-doh! I forgot to torque one spacer!).
3. Bedded pads at a nearby street near LAX which is rarely driven and very wide.

Pads bedded in nicely. No uneven wear noticed on rotors. Once I fixed the two overlooked issues, the car ran smoothly and didn't pull to either side. I ran the car up to about 85MPH with no notable issues.

On the way to the LAX street, I gently bedded the brakes at moderate-speeds; e.g., 35-40MPH. Once there, I bedded the brakes over about a dozen or more slow-brake runs from 60-70MPH. At stop-lights, I kept the brake pedal off and put the car in park so as not to overheat any particular spot on the rotors. A couple of test-stops showed off the Rotora's superior performance over factory (however, the brake pedal felt a tiny but spongy so I will re-bleed all four calipers in a few days).
 

kryptto

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First test drive!

1. Noticed loud scraping noise on front-right (doh! I put one pad in backwards!).
2. Noticed chatter on rear-right (double-doh! I forgot to torque one spacer!).
3. Bedded pads at a nearby street near LAX which is rarely driven and very wide.

Pads bedded in nicely. No uneven wear noticed on rotors. Once I fixed the two overlooked issues, the car ran smoothly and didn't pull to either side. I ran the car up to about 85MPH with no notable issues.

On the way to the LAX street, I gently bedded the brakes at moderate-speeds; e.g., 35-40MPH. Once there, I bedded the brakes over about a dozen or more slow-brake runs from 60-70MPH. At stop-lights, I kept the brake pedal off and put the car in park so as not to overheat any particular spot on the rotors. A couple of test-stops showed off the Rotora's superior performance over factory (however, the brake pedal felt a tiny but spongy so I will re-bleed all four calipers in a few days).
isn't there a proper procedure to bleed, like using FORSCAN... I am sure it's posted here
 

studio460

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4/lose.

Rotora makes 6-cylinder front calipers and 4-cylinder rear calipers for the Taurus. Of course, Rotora will be happy to sell you just the front calipers. But yes, the rears require you to unhook and stow your factory emergency brake cable.
 
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