Sorry to over-complicate this! Let's start over.
1. Find a set of 1/2x20 5x4.5 spacers in your desired thickness with a bore of 63.4mm (your Taurus' factory wheel-hub diameter).
2. Measure the bore-diameter of your aftermarket-wheel using a micrometer.
3. Buy an aluminum hub-centric ring (no lip) of 63.4mm to XXmm of your wheel's bore.
That's it!
My troubles began because I ordered two different 63.4mm-bore spacers: One was out-of-spec (too small by 0.5mm), and one was simply the totally wrong size (70mm+). You could order one from another Amazon seller, or get a set from Bonoss; though, they're very pricey (x4 Amazon prices), but their spacers are hugely over-spec'd and their email communication is excellent (that said, I would be fine with spacers from Amazon). Before you start your journey I advise getting a metal micrometer off Amazon.
Note that sellers' inventory varies widely on Amazon, almost daily. If you don't find the items in the correct sizes one day, check back a few days later or even the next day.
Problems to avoid:
1. Avoid plastic hub-centric rings. Every plastic ring I bought (including ones from Circuit Performance) had a lip for some reason which prevents 100%-contact with the entire wheel-surface (at least with my particular wheel). I bought two different brands of aluminum rings; i.e., Circuit Performance and Wheel Connect (a generic brand), and neither brand had a lip. Both fit my wheel and hub perfectly.
2. Use Permatex anti-seize to make re-dos easier (available at Harbor Freight).
3. Be careful not to strip the head of the #10 Torx retaining screw in the rotor.
4. Don't cut off your factory studs unless 100% sure it's necessary.
5. Perform final torque "in the air" just to be 100% sure your wheel components are centered.
Note: Many size-combinations of hub-centric rings simply cannot be found. Even on Circuit Performance's own site, many sizes are omitted from the drop-down selection box, even the ones sent to me by WheelHero (aftermarket wheel vendor).
Final thoughts: Although I thought I was a fairly smart guy, I found this whole exercise utterly confusing because of the many variables. I couldn't get my head around the various issues until I had the actual parts in my hands and test-fitted them all together in my lap.
1. Find a set of 1/2x20 5x4.5 spacers in your desired thickness with a bore of 63.4mm (your Taurus' factory wheel-hub diameter).
2. Measure the bore-diameter of your aftermarket-wheel using a micrometer.
3. Buy an aluminum hub-centric ring (no lip) of 63.4mm to XXmm of your wheel's bore.
That's it!
My troubles began because I ordered two different 63.4mm-bore spacers: One was out-of-spec (too small by 0.5mm), and one was simply the totally wrong size (70mm+). You could order one from another Amazon seller, or get a set from Bonoss; though, they're very pricey (x4 Amazon prices), but their spacers are hugely over-spec'd and their email communication is excellent (that said, I would be fine with spacers from Amazon). Before you start your journey I advise getting a metal micrometer off Amazon.
Note that sellers' inventory varies widely on Amazon, almost daily. If you don't find the items in the correct sizes one day, check back a few days later or even the next day.
Problems to avoid:
1. Avoid plastic hub-centric rings. Every plastic ring I bought (including ones from Circuit Performance) had a lip for some reason which prevents 100%-contact with the entire wheel-surface (at least with my particular wheel). I bought two different brands of aluminum rings; i.e., Circuit Performance and Wheel Connect (a generic brand), and neither brand had a lip. Both fit my wheel and hub perfectly.
2. Use Permatex anti-seize to make re-dos easier (available at Harbor Freight).
3. Be careful not to strip the head of the #10 Torx retaining screw in the rotor.
4. Don't cut off your factory studs unless 100% sure it's necessary.
5. Perform final torque "in the air" just to be 100% sure your wheel components are centered.
Note: Many size-combinations of hub-centric rings simply cannot be found. Even on Circuit Performance's own site, many sizes are omitted from the drop-down selection box, even the ones sent to me by WheelHero (aftermarket wheel vendor).
Final thoughts: Although I thought I was a fairly smart guy, I found this whole exercise utterly confusing because of the many variables. I couldn't get my head around the various issues until I had the actual parts in my hands and test-fitted them all together in my lap.
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