Rod bearing project

[megaplay]

Hey all, Well looking at doing my rod bearings since so much talk about it lately. Figured did the whole 100K tune up this can't be too much harder. Just to let everyone know I ordered the bearings from Napa yesterday and when talking to the clerk he said they usually take about 3 weeks. The web site said 3 to 5 days so we will see and I will keep you updated incase you were planning on a certain date might want to order them early. Hopefully the web site is right because I had hoped to do it Sunday. Did have a question. Checked Auto Zone web site and an oil pan gasket for the ATX is not available but it is for the MTX and is the part listed on Kirk's page. Anyone know for sure if the oil pan is the same and same gasket? Also anyone know if the flex pipe gasket is a dealer only part? Any other tips or ideas would be great thanks. I almost have it memorized with how many times I have read Kirk's page and Scott's post about a week ago.

 

[luigisho]

You might want to replace the oil pick up tube gasket. IIRC the egr gasket is used and trimmed a bit to the correct opening size since the gasket has been discontinued.

 

[stevetatro]

Oil pan gaskets are the same. Guess that means the pan is, too.

After you get the bearings changed and are ready to put the oil pan back on, practice putting it in place a few times without the gaskets (and especially RTV) so you get the hang of it. It can be a bear to get back into place and you don't want to muck up the RTV as you do it.

I know you must think I'm kidding, but while helping a friend with his '95 MTX it honestly took us 20 minutes to get the freakin' pan in place. By that time we had screwed the RTV and had to do it over again.

Luigi's right regarding the oil pickup tube gasket. I ended up making one out of gasket paper, but I've heard of many people just modifying the EGR gasket.

Other than all that, it's a pretty straightforward job.

EDIT: Holy crap. Just noticed you're from Cincy. You want some help/company when you do this? I'm always up for a team-mechanic session. Besides, if you screw up the gaskets I'll be there with my spare set ;^) Let me know!

Also, I'm curious how you plan to remove the y-pipe, as the studs are probably rusted. Luckily the one car I did had a recent aftermarket y-pipe and the studs came right off.

Oh, I'll check with my regular NAPA guy as he seems to have a real knack with getting me almost any part in 2 days. I'm almost positive I can have them by Saturday.

<small>[ January 08, 2003, 04:01 PM: Message edited by: stevetatro ]</small>

 

[Off Road SHO]

Okay,
Time for an "old Timer" to chime in on the rusted nut problem. No matter how rusted a nut and bolt combination is, you can always loosen it with heat. I know most of the people on this Forum are young and probably don't have access to a torch of any kind, but they probably know someone that does.

All you need to do is heat up the nut till it is glowing red hot. It will then spin right off. The best method for the exhaust bolts/studs/nuts is a small oxygen acetylene welding tip, about a 00 or 000 size, so you won't heat up everything else nearby. I learned this from my wife's uncle who is a Ford Model A restorer and Roadster builder. And his personal roadster was chosen by Ford to be in some Ford museum in Michigan because it represented the fifties and what America was doing with the automobile.

Tom

 

[sdpatt]

You can easily cut your own oil pickup tube gasket. It is a small, thin gasket and it would be cheaper and simpler to just buy some oil-compatible gasket material and cut to fit rather than wasting a more expensive EGR gasket.

The Fel-Pro OS30636R oil pan gasket set is available from AutoZone for $16.99. It includes the two, rubber end seals and two tubes of black silicone.

I also test fitted the oil pan before applying the silicone. You may want to install the ruber seals with a little silicone to keep them in place on the block. Another option is to apply the silicone to the surface on the block rather than the oil pan. That way you don't disturb the silicone while trying to coax the pan into place between the front motor mount (on the MTX) and the driveshaft carrier bearing.

The MTX's exhaust ****** gasket is available from several parts manufacturers, so I imagine you can also find replacements for the ATX's gasket at your local auto supply.

 

[SolidState]

pssst....I don't think the oil pans are the same...

but the gaskets are...

<small>[ January 09, 2003, 10:15 AM: Message edited by: SolidState ]</small>

 

[stevetatro]

You know, after I posted that I started thinking, and I realized the pans weren't the same. I just know that when I ordered the gaskets for an MTX and an ATX at the same time that the parts that came were identical (and were correct).

Thanks for pointing that out!

 

[megaplay]

Just a slight update, bearings came in like the web said in 3 days so looks like these won't be as big a problem to get. Now as long as everything goes well Sunday get my baby back on the road. Any other idea or thoughts? Thanks again.