Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
That was sunday, this is Wednsday.. another day with the intake off and hoses moved around.. I'd reset and do it again, see if that 542 is gone. 
Riddle me this... IAC question...
- Thread starter Eric VerValin
- Start date
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bubba
ATX Connoisseur
Wouldn't come back, if the car died again?
That was sunday, this is Wednsday.. another day with the intake off and hoses moved around.. I'd reset and do it again, see if that 542 is gone.
boat
Likes blue ones
At the parent's house tonight, have some over the internet video lectures to watch... Won't be working on the SHO again probably til tomorrow evening or Friday evening.
No, I didn't snap the throttle at all. But something to try once I go over to the shop again. Glad to know the 17 is close, and that I am not that far off.
I bought a tester for like $22 bucks + tax. So, I will have it for a long time to come. Would love to test it out on a good car. When are you picking me up to do this? :wave:
Which clamps are you referring to? The clamps on the intake? Which hoses are you referencing?
I thought for a second about shooting her, but then where would Murphy get his chance to practice his law? I would miss that car too much.
No, I didn't snap the throttle at all. But something to try once I go over to the shop again. Glad to know the 17 is close, and that I am not that far off.
I bought a tester for like $22 bucks + tax. So, I will have it for a long time to come. Would love to test it out on a good car. When are you picking me up to do this? :wave:
Which clamps are you referring to? The clamps on the intake? Which hoses are you referencing?
I thought for a second about shooting her, but then where would Murphy get his chance to practice his law? I would miss that car too much.
Damn I was close.. lol I was thinking 17-21 was about "normal". Hey Boat.. did you try to snap the throttle at all when you had that tester hooked up? It should "snap" nice and quick.. It'll get up to 25 or so, snap to 5ish then pop right back to your 17. I would almost imagine you could google this for a video of it... someone probally posted one up somewhere. Probally not a SHO but the guage works the same way in other cars too.
How long do you have that guage for Boat? Maybe try testing it out on my car to see how close to "normal" your at.
And.... what do those clamps look like on all your hoses... I forget... you may be losing some vac where those old factory crapo clamps are.. for a couple of bucks you can put some real ones on there and maybe tighten those up a bit. Could also cut some of those hoses back an inch or so, so they fit tight again...
Also... maybe try talking some smack to your car... tell it your thinking about selling it and see if it dosen't act right... lol I swear I gotta start talking about my 3lb hammer before my car cooperates sometimes..
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
Any clamp that comes off with something other than a 5/16" or a flat screwdriver. Replace all those... that is one habit I picked up from Doug... throw those in the trash..
And I gotta swap this stupid "new" starter out again before I pick u up. I've been pretty lazy latley... too busy looking for work..
And Bubba... yea it would come back again if it stalled out..
And I gotta swap this stupid "new" starter out again before I pick u up.
I've been pretty lazy latley... too busy looking for work.. And Bubba... yea it would come back again if it stalled out..
boat
Likes blue ones
An update...
Well, on the large hose on the back of the intake, right by the little canister, and the ground bolt/wire, I put a nice new tight clamp on that. Replaced the vacuum hose that goes from the intake to a solenoid, took the hose going down to a "T" right by the drain valve of the radiator, chopped the old dried out ends off of that. I put all that back together. And guess what, no change.
I ran the codes again, this time I got 116 "ECT out of range for the KOEO and KOER test" and 157 something about the MAF voltage being too low, or out of range. I replaced the MAF with another one I had, no change there either.
I did the throttle "blip" while watching the vacuum gauge, and the needle went from 17 to 5, up to 20-22, then back to 17. Not sure what all of that means.
It was suggested to check the fuel filter, and fuel pressure. Going to do this tomorrow, probably also going to try new gaskets that go to the heads from the intake. I also checked the DIS bolts, I was able to tighten just a little bit more than they were, and no change there either. I inspected everything I could think of. There is a strange looking "T" at the top of the fire wall in front of the driver, everything was attached there, followed the hoses, and didn't find one disconnected.
Eric, just let me know when you can pick me up... :wave:
Anyone have any other ideas???
The most frustrating thing about this is, is that it does not appear to be anything I touched last Saturday and not sure what else it could be at this point.
Well, on the large hose on the back of the intake, right by the little canister, and the ground bolt/wire, I put a nice new tight clamp on that. Replaced the vacuum hose that goes from the intake to a solenoid, took the hose going down to a "T" right by the drain valve of the radiator, chopped the old dried out ends off of that. I put all that back together. And guess what, no change.
I ran the codes again, this time I got 116 "ECT out of range for the KOEO and KOER test" and 157 something about the MAF voltage being too low, or out of range. I replaced the MAF with another one I had, no change there either.
I did the throttle "blip" while watching the vacuum gauge, and the needle went from 17 to 5, up to 20-22, then back to 17. Not sure what all of that means.
It was suggested to check the fuel filter, and fuel pressure. Going to do this tomorrow, probably also going to try new gaskets that go to the heads from the intake. I also checked the DIS bolts, I was able to tighten just a little bit more than they were, and no change there either. I inspected everything I could think of. There is a strange looking "T" at the top of the fire wall in front of the driver, everything was attached there, followed the hoses, and didn't find one disconnected.
Eric, just let me know when you can pick me up... :wave:
Anyone have any other ideas???
The most frustrating thing about this is, is that it does not appear to be anything I touched last Saturday and not sure what else it could be at this point.
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
I find it odd you got an MAF code... going to have to ponder this one.. lol Have you tried an excorsist? lol I think your car has demons... if not at least an electrical gremlin.
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
Is it odd that his car has the old Vaccuum style speed control system? I thought that stuff was 92 and earlier. Says his cruise control works...
And FWIW the vac guage pulled 21 on Bubba's car. 17-21 is quite different.
And FWIW the vac guage pulled 21 on Bubba's car. 17-21 is quite different.
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boat
Likes blue ones
Anyone, anyone? I hate to say this, but I think my SHO is owning me. She is going to the guy at the dealership Chuck (sho n go) probably Monday or Tuesday next week, the only one there that works on SHO's at the Ford dealer. I'd fix it myself if I could find it, this one is has me stumped. I am speechless at this point... as to what else it could be. I know there is a vacuum leak somewhere, and I have absolutely zero idea of where to check or what it could be. Options for going further??
Would any leak down test show me where the leak is?
Would any leak down test show me where the leak is?
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boat
Likes blue ones
Starts and stalls immediately
Well, another update...
Searching the diagnostic part of the shop manual cd, there was a "Start and Stall" troubleshooting flow chart. So, I followed it, selected the KOEO codes I was receiving, 157, it pointed to 1 of 4 things,
1. an intermintent open or short in MAF sensor or harness
2. Poor continuity in MAF sensor harness or connectors
3. a damaged MAF (already swapped out with another working MAF)
4. IAC system (possible closed throttle position indication)
So I cleaned the IAC with starter fluid and q-tips, cleaned it until the fluid came out clean, and the nostrils that go into the intake once the IAC/IAB is removed. I have yet to check those, but now, don't see a need to, b/c the 157 is gone now.
No change... still starts, then stalls immediately. I also purged the PCM memory of all learned codes.
When I run the codes now, I get 114 first, then I get 111. Guess I will try to dig into the 114, see what I come up with on that...
Anyone have any other ideas???
Well, another update...
Searching the diagnostic part of the shop manual cd, there was a "Start and Stall" troubleshooting flow chart. So, I followed it, selected the KOEO codes I was receiving, 157, it pointed to 1 of 4 things,
1. an intermintent open or short in MAF sensor or harness
2. Poor continuity in MAF sensor harness or connectors
3. a damaged MAF (already swapped out with another working MAF)
4. IAC system (possible closed throttle position indication)
So I cleaned the IAC with starter fluid and q-tips, cleaned it until the fluid came out clean, and the nostrils that go into the intake once the IAC/IAB is removed. I have yet to check those, but now, don't see a need to, b/c the 157 is gone now.
No change... still starts, then stalls immediately. I also purged the PCM memory of all learned codes.
When I run the codes now, I get 114 first, then I get 111. Guess I will try to dig into the 114, see what I come up with on that...
Anyone have any other ideas???
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Bob Gervais
Wut?
114 is the ACT sensor out of range for self test (air charge temp sensor). No idea if that would have a dramatic affect like you're experiencing though...
So with comparative readings, we can definitely say you have a vacuum leak somewhere, just not sure where.
What I would do at this point is start unplugging one vacuum line at a time to the accessories, block the end of the unplugged line, and start the car to see if any of that makes a difference.
Do you have access to a known good IAC? If you do, I'd try swapping that out again and see if it makes a change. I guess it's possible that you have two bad IAC's?
So with comparative readings, we can definitely say you have a vacuum leak somewhere, just not sure where.
What I would do at this point is start unplugging one vacuum line at a time to the accessories, block the end of the unplugged line, and start the car to see if any of that makes a difference.
Do you have access to a known good IAC? If you do, I'd try swapping that out again and see if it makes a change. I guess it's possible that you have two bad IAC's?
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
How exactally are you getting that bottom bolt tight on your IAC?
boat
Likes blue ones
Found my vacuum leak!!!!
My SHO runs again :woo-hoo: :woo-hoo: :woo-hoo: !!!
It indeed was most definitely a vacuum leak. I contacted the Ford Dealer here in Fort Wayne, IN and talked to Chuck (does all the SHO work, at the dealer) about what my SHO was doing, and all that I had tried. I mentioned that I moved the fuel rail when I changed the thermostat housing, b/c of the crossover tube coming out of the water pump when that thermostat housing was removed.
He said, "you moved the fuel rail? Check for your injector o-rings, I bet you dropped one."
So, I went to Napa, got the Echlin CRB 212069 fuel injector o-ring kit for each injector, good time to change the o-rings while I was checking.
I dug in, disconnected all the electrical plugs from the injectors, then moved the rail out of the way, and found not one injector seal missing but 3 of the 6. One I found in the valley by the crossover tube, injectors 1 and 4 the seals were still in the heads, the #2 injector seal was on the injector, the other 2 were MIA, maybe under the crossover tube, I never found them.
No wonder I had a vacuum leak, 3 of the 6 injectors were not sealed to the heads allowing air to pass by causing it stall after starting. Put in all the new injector seals, reassembled and it fired right up, up to 1500 rpm, then stabilized at 900 and she was purring smoothly, at 1am this morning. Lesson learned, pay attention what you are doing when you disassemble stuff on the car. I got in a hurry and missed those o-rings when I initially put it back together.
Decided to "man up" last night and rode my bicycle in the rain and 40 degree temps to my garage get this fixed, finished up around 2am when I pulled the SHO out and drove home, what a feeling, nice to have it fixed again, I was going through some major withdrawls
I have some pics to upload later...
My SHO runs again :woo-hoo: :woo-hoo: :woo-hoo: !!!
It indeed was most definitely a vacuum leak. I contacted the Ford Dealer here in Fort Wayne, IN and talked to Chuck (does all the SHO work, at the dealer) about what my SHO was doing, and all that I had tried. I mentioned that I moved the fuel rail when I changed the thermostat housing, b/c of the crossover tube coming out of the water pump when that thermostat housing was removed.
He said, "you moved the fuel rail? Check for your injector o-rings, I bet you dropped one."
So, I went to Napa, got the Echlin CRB 212069 fuel injector o-ring kit for each injector, good time to change the o-rings while I was checking.
I dug in, disconnected all the electrical plugs from the injectors, then moved the rail out of the way, and found not one injector seal missing but 3 of the 6. One I found in the valley by the crossover tube, injectors 1 and 4 the seals were still in the heads, the #2 injector seal was on the injector, the other 2 were MIA, maybe under the crossover tube, I never found them.
No wonder I had a vacuum leak, 3 of the 6 injectors were not sealed to the heads allowing air to pass by causing it stall after starting. Put in all the new injector seals, reassembled and it fired right up, up to 1500 rpm, then stabilized at 900 and she was purring smoothly, at 1am this morning. Lesson learned, pay attention what you are doing when you disassemble stuff on the car. I got in a hurry and missed those o-rings when I initially put it back together.
Decided to "man up" last night and rode my bicycle in the rain and 40 degree temps to my garage get this fixed, finished up around 2am when I pulled the SHO out and drove home, what a feeling, nice to have it fixed again, I was going through some major withdrawls
I have some pics to upload later...
frosho
WOLFMAN
Sweet!
Bob Gervais
Wut?
Awesome! Glad it was something simple, and you're back on the road again.
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
You couldnt hear that leak?
Glad you got it fixed though.
Glad you got it fixed though.
boat
Likes blue ones
it wouldn't run long enough with the IAC plugged in for me to diagnose anything. It would start then stall. Unplug the IAC and it would chug so bad, you couldn't hear anything.
Thanks
Thanks
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
Decided to "man up" last night and rode my bicycle in the rain and 40 degree temps to my garage get this fixed, finished up around 2am when I pulled the SHO out and drove home, what a feeling, nice to have it fixed again, I was going through some major withdrawls
I have some pics to upload later...
I kinda left you on your own for this one for this specific reason, and now I think you'll do ok working on your car now.
You just gotta get ****** off enough from not driving it, and get out there and do something about it. I knew from what you told me it was something you did.. (turned out didn't do) lol But if you think about it... you were the only one holding the answer.. it was in your head the entire time.
+1 for riding in the rain.. I know that was a big deal for a guy like you... lol
:laugh_ti: ... just playin... well kinda... Now do what I do.... fill it up with 93, and go beat the crap out of it! Break a motor mount, or make your new lca's fail... I did, its great!Similar threads
