Repaint Or Maguires ?

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mrecoolgar

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Don't take it too seriously.
Life is too short and there are other thing more important.
Besides, don't question my authorital (remember Kartman on South Park?).
 
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mrecoolgar

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I got the car in position today for work to start.
Got it washed, applied Rain-X and cleaned the glass inside.
As you can see it needs waxed.
100_0477.jpg

100_0476.jpg
 

ManySHOs

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Looks great. By the way, I used (and still own) the Griots machine polishes. I need to do my car again. A friend of mine has a Porter Cable 7424 random orbital that we used with the pads that I bought. I plan on getting my own soon and doing the car again. I use Meguiars car wash but I only get to wash the car a few times a year. My paint is badly abused but it cleans up fairly well.

I'm really impressed with how your car is turning out though.

Ian
 

Brett

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Damn when you clean it. You clean it. Body cladding off and all, thats some detail dedication. Looks like over a 100 bucks worth of car care products in the bucket. :sun:

Ive used a buffer many a times in school. Alot of people will tell you that a good paint job is in the prep and it most definitely is. But i think the wet sand and buff can really make or break the paint and is just as important as any other aspect of a paint job.

though alot of people make the mistake of thinking they're home free once it comes out the booth without fish eyes or runs.

You've had the best results by far of anyone ive seen hand buffing, thats for damned sure. bet the wrist/elbow is a bit sore after that. Its tedious, time consuming, and pretty boring IMO. you must really like it. To each his own.
 

Toul

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Great results sure, but your paint was just fine to begin with. Most of the issues that we as sho owners run into are not "buffoutable". I wish I was lucky enough to have a car with paint as nice as yours. My clear coat is more or less gone off my hood roof and decklid. Along with numerous scratches and 190k miles of road debris on the front bumper. :)
 

mrecoolgar

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Thanks for the compliments Brett.
Sore I am, especially the first car of the year.
It settles down as the summer progresses.

I wouldn't say just fine to begin with.
Did you see the photos before my purchase?
I'm familiar with 'no clearcoat' as my green plus has a bad case of it.

Ian, I am taking it to Carlisle.
Pictures tell a story but in person is best.
Whether for the good or for the bad.
 

89SHOMAN666

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Top notch job as always Kevin!! Seriously if only there were more car people that had the skill and patience as you! :thumb:
 

Toul

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Thanks for the compliments Brett.
Sore I am, especially the first car of the year.
It settles down as the summer progresses.

I wouldn't say just fine to begin with.
Did you see the photos before my purchase?
I'm familiar with 'no clearcoat' as my green plus has a bad case of it.

Ian, I am taking it to Carlisle.
Pictures tell a story but in person is best.
Whether for the good or for the bad.

Im not saying it looked fine to begin with, was just saying your lucky that your cars flaws COULD be buffed out :) Alot of us (me included especially) aren't so lucky.

Takes the fun out of cleaning the car. Whats the point of making it look clean when it still looks like crap:bonk:
 

mrecoolgar

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Thanks Peter.
Sometimes I wonder why I bother.
No harm Toul, I thought that was what you meant.
 

mrecoolgar

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Here are pics with the lower body detailed.
2008-04-24017.jpg

Re-attachment of the skirting brackets.
2008-04-24021.jpg

Detail of the shiny tail lamps.
2008-04-24028.jpg

As it looks today, I still need to wax the door cladding, skirting and bumpers.
2008-04-24033.jpg

2008-04-24036.jpg
 

K-Dawg

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You can really see the difference with the plastic on the car. Can't wait to see it when its done. Then you can come do mine.
 

mrecoolgar

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I just tried Meguiars clay bar on my red 1989.
What a difference, I'm super pleased an will continue to use.
100_2006.jpg
 

JRA2000TL

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You've really done a great job on that red one. My 90 is Lt. Titanium like your other one (well, it was). Someone took it to Maaco and had it sprayed; now it's more of a primer gray. Unfortunately, since the paint is ruined, meguiars won't work for me. I will be looking for a good re-paint in the original factory color for mine in the future. Hopefully someone on the forum can get me in touch with a good local one-man-show type deal for a good rate here in the Southeast. I've talked with larger body shops and they don't like to do re-paints--mostly just insurance collision work. Not to mention, the 2 I found use Sherwin-Williams paint and I want PPG. They have a paint code for the Lt. Titanium as an exact match. I am sure I'll wind up having to pay about $2000 even with no rust and no body work with the exception of a couple of small dents.
 

mrecoolgar

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Thanks for the compliment.
Same goes here, bodyshops only want insurance work.
Find a local guy like you said.
And $2000 may be low for todays rates.
Sorry.
 

RAYJAY

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Thanks for the info.
I'll check the Sears buffer also.


don't even bother with the sears ( had one and got rid of it ) the best one to buy is a porter cable orbital or as called in the trade a PC if you can't wheel with a regular buffer

I only use lakes pads start with yellow pad cleaning then white then black

also the best polishing stuff i ever used is poorboy's ......

wash car with bugoff and then poor boys soap

claybar the whole car right after you wash it

ssr3 with the yellow pad/ssr2 yellow pad/ then ssr2 white pad ssr1 white pad

2 coats of EX-P sealer can use black pad or hand apply 1 to 2 coat of nattys blue


Jeff
 
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