Remote Oil Filtration

[gmorrell]

Very nice Gary. Question, any reason NOT to use the stock oil cooler? I plan on leaving mine in place.

I'm also curious about pulling the oil cooler. Was it introducing heat into the oil or was it for clearance?

I found the factory water-to-oil cooler wasn't enough for the boosted engine. I installed a Mocal 180ºF oil thermostat and a good flat plate oil cooler up front of the radiator.

If I were just tooting around on the street, the factory cooler would probably be fine, but 20 minutes on a road course and the oil was 275ºF, I was uncomfortable with that. The flat plate cooler lowered oil temps to 225ºF, and that was running the big track at Willow Springs in 90ºF ambient.

 

[rbruso]

Would there be drawbacks to keeping the stock cooler and adding an aftermarket cooler?

Also, where did you install the thermostat? I assume it's bypassing the cooler until a preset temperature?

 

[gmorrell]

Would there be drawbacks to keeping the stock cooler and adding an aftermarket cooler?

Also, where did you install the thermostat? I assume it's bypassing the cooler until a preset temperature?

I'd do one or the other, but not both. The stock cooler is perfectly adequate unless you're hammering road courses with over 400CHP.

The oil thermostat is the silver blob with 4 lines going to it. Below 180F, oil just loops top to bottom on the right side, above 180F, the valve closes off the bypass and starts admitting oil to the cooler.

 

[gmorrell]

dont worry, 1 purolator filter is worth 8 fram filters. You're still ahead by a mile.

The pictures in my post with the two Fram HP-1's were from 1998, that's way before anyone knew that Fram oil filters were steaming piles of poo.

 

[Toolman]

Gary, you are using a lot of line there. Any idea what your total oil capacity was? With my larger filter and the extra lines, I am guessing 6+ quarts for mine. I will keep an eye on my temps, if they get a little warmer than I like, your oil cooler setup will be getting copied (though I will need to put it on my fender, no room in front of radiator).

 

[Off Road SHO]

I ditched the stock oil cooler on The Other Woman and use the heater core to cool the oil. In an open buggy you hardly feel the extra cabin heat. I used a coolant pump off of a Lightning's heat exchange system as a booster pump since the engine is a little farther from the heater in the buggy.

Tom

 

[gmorrell]

Gary, you are using a lot of line there. Any idea what your total oil capacity was? With my larger filter and the extra lines, I am guessing 6+ quarts for mine.

The two remote filters hold almost a quart each, I pre-fill them before screwing them on the filter holder. Lines and cooler is probably another quart easy. If I take the time to drain the lines and cooler, an oil change is near 9 quarts with the sump.

Ain't that just stupid?

 

[_JR_]

wow, I'm loving the info/high res pictures all you guys are providing.

Really appreciate the dynamite info!

 

[jon93]

A kit I had for the 91. Canton makes nice stuff (45gpm flow and 8 micron filtration).

 

[STL. SHO]

I'd do one or the other, but not both. The stock cooler is perfectly adequate unless you're hammering road courses with over 400CHP.

The oil thermostat is the silver blob with 4 lines going to it. Below 180F, oil just loops top to bottom on the right side, above 180F, the valve closes off the bypass and starts admitting oil to the cooler.

Where is the stock oil cooler located? didn't know they had one

 

[Toolman]

your filter attached directly to it.

 

[STL. SHO]

your filter attached directly to it.

:thankyou:

 

[SHOZ123]

I'd do one or the other, but not both. The stock cooler is perfectly adequate unless you're hammering road courses with over 400CHP.

The oil thermostat is the silver blob with 4 lines going to it. Below 180F, oil just loops top to bottom on the right side, above 180F, the valve closes off the bypass and starts admitting oil to the cooler.

What size fitting is on those coolers?

 

[Toolman]

looks like -10.

 

[NovaSS]

The only real set back is the adapter from the block to the adapter. use the search function and you will find a thread about the size of the fitting and were to get them.

I relocated mine just I could get to them after the swap

 

[gmorrell]

What size fitting is on those coolers?

The engine oil cooler in the middle and all the oiling plumbing is -10. (5/8" ID)

The transaxle cooler on the right is -8. (1/2" ID)

The power steering cooler is on the left, and it was flipped over long ago so it de-bubbles more effectively.

Most of the decent block adapters and remote filter mounts are 1/2" pipe thread ports, while the cheap stuff is usually 3/8" pipe, and I feel this is too small and restrictive for the potential fluid volume of SHO oiling system (over 10 gallons / minute).

Any more, I try to get components with -10 or -12 straight thread O-ring ports instead of pipe thread ports. AN-style O-ring ports are larger, and the adapter fittings are large bore and tapered inside to lessen the restriction at the fittings. This is the oil cooler thermostatic takeoff on my SVO Mustang engine, it's a Mocal sandwich adapter with -10 O-ring ports. You can see the bonded O-ring washer underneath the fitting hex, it's traditionally called a Dowty seal.

 

[32MTX]

Tim, real men use dual filters...

homeboy bragging about his oil filters and he has FRAM OIL FILTERS ON IT

WTF.......?

insert double face palm picture here*


one reason for no remote setup.... more chances/areas/possibilities to devolp an oil leak...... a pressurized one at that

I like simple reliable stuff, get a can of brake clean for every oil change

 

[frosho]

homeboy bragging about his oil filters and he has FRAM OIL FILTERS ON IT

WTF.......?

insert double face palm picture here*

Did you read the thread?

The pictures in my post with the two Fram HP-1's were from 1998, that's way before anyone knew that Fram oil filters were steaming piles of poo.

[one reason for no remote setup.... more chances/areas/possibilities to devolp an oil leak...... a pressurized one at that

I like simple reliable stuff, get a can of brake clean for every oil change

Do it right and it won't leak.

 

[Racer X]

homeboy bragging about his oil filters and he has FRAM OIL FILTERS ON IT

WTF.......?

insert double face palm picture here*


one reason for no remote setup.... more chances/areas/possibilities to devolp an oil leak...... a pressurized one at that

I like simple reliable stuff, get a can of brake clean for every oil change

Whoa there, slow yo roll, *******. Gary's been in this game since before you were into Hot Wheels, let alone real cars.

Case in point, that picture of the 2 Fram filters is 12 years old (which Gary mentioned).

 

[Shoaz]

homeboy bragging about his oil filters and he has FRAM OIL FILTERS ON IT

WTF.......?

insert double face palm picture here*

Face palm on the face palm fail.

one reason for no remote setup.... more chances/areas/possibilities to devolp an oil leak...... a pressurized one at that

I like simple reliable stuff, get a can of brake clean for every oil change

If you don't need it, you don't need it. However, if you're tracking a car in high temps or with a lot of hp you need plumbing for an oil cooler, anyway. Once you have a cooler with additional plumbing it's not much of a risk increase to add the remote filter. The tradeoff to leak potentials is waaaaay ahead of the game. Also notice that in the decent implementations of people doing this they're using braided hoses with decent fittings. It's not that hard to minimize the chance of leaks if you're willing to do it right.

On the other hand, when you know your oil temps are killing the life and effectiveness of the oil you're pretty stupid to not add plumbing for a cooler, and then the remote filter is a pretty small change once that's in.

And for a race car I don't think FRAMs are so bad. IIRC Ernie was running dual FRAMs and pretty unapologetic about it, and he's not an ignoramus when it comes to motors. When you change them every few hours of operation the cost difference is going to look attractive compared to the performance difference in that sort of maintenance cycle.