Remote Oil Filtration

[_JR_]

I was going through old threads/posts on oil filters and what not. Few ppl mentioned they ahd this set-up on the SHO.



What are the thoughts/opinions on it?

The only reason I'm poking around in that subject is because i'm looking at better filtration and also ease of changing the oil filter. I'm not a fan of having oil drop all over my starter/face/driveway. And no i havent used the cut coke bottle method to contain loose oil yet.


I had an FL-1HP but i couldnt get the bloody thing to fit my ATX SHO. People say that the FL-1A does fit so the FL-1HP should also fit.



Also, i hear Ford changed the FL-400S filter so that it is smaller. Anyone seen/heard of the new filters?

 

[Toolman]

I'm not a fan of having oil drop all over my starter/face/driveway.

This /\ /\!! Biggest single reason for remote oil filter IMO. I got a very very nice one for sale in my ad (or will soon). Stainless lines, AN hardware, slick.

 

[_JR_]

well although those are great reasons, i also want great filtration lol


How did you like using the kit? Any pro/con that stick out in your mind?



ss lines eh? sounds like it'll add 6hp and filter down to 3 micron particles!

 

[rbruso]

I mounted a pair of 8A filters on a dual remote setup in front of the driver's side front wheel. I used one existing hole as a template and a 90 degree drill adapter to drill the other two. Then I used some thread-serts, as there's no graceful way to get nuts on the back of any bolts there.

The filters are tucked up high. Been that way for years and haven't had a problem.

Biggest issue has been minor annoying leaks from the worm clamps on the hoses, so I make sure they're tight with each oil change. Eventually they'll go away for some proper fittings.

It's a cheap Summit setup with the filters in parallel. When I change my oil I put a catch pan under them, center punch the filters with an awl and let them drain before spinning them off.

Best part is that my starter isn't an oily mess.

 

[-DVP-]

As much as I change my oil, I think I might look into this for my cars.

 

[Twisted6]

Even though the engine is not in yet, I am running a remote filter system. I have previously ran Transdapt kits, but I found out that Wix sells individual pieces of these kits. I picked up the adapter and single filter mounting plate, together, for about $25. Its also shinier than my $80 Transdapt kit on my Pontiac. :sun:

 

[Toolman]

well although those are great reasons, i also want great filtration lol


How did you like using the kit? Any pro/con that stick out in your mind?



ss lines eh? sounds like it'll add 6hp and filter down to 3 micron particles!

No cons, only pros. Your filtration will depend on your choice of filter, the relocation does not change anything.

Besides being cleaner during oil changes, you have increased oil capacity, and by moving the filter out from under the exhaust manifold, you end up with cooler oil. Again, all pros, no cons, IMO.

 

[SHOZ123]

Also, i hear Ford changed the FL-400S filter so that it is smaller. Anyone seen/heard of the new filters?

All filter cans are smaller due to EPA request. The inside element is the same as always. Less oil in the landfill.

 

[jonheese]

The only cons are the cost and work to install. Well worth it.

 

[STL. SHO]

I mounted a pair of 8A filters on a dual remote setup in front of the driver's side front wheel. I used one existing hole as a template and a 90 degree drill adapter to drill the other two. Then I used some thread-serts, as there's no graceful way to get nuts on the back of any bolts there.

The filters are tucked up high. Been that way for years and haven't had a problem.

Biggest issue has been minor annoying leaks from the worm clamps on the hoses, so I make sure they're tight with each oil change. Eventually they'll go away for some proper fittings.

It's a cheap Summit setup with the filters in parallel. When I change my oil I put a catch pan under them, center punch the filters with an awl and let them drain before spinning them off.

Best part is that my starter isn't an oily mess.

Do you remember the part# and how much it was?

 

[jonheese]

Looks to me like a SUM-4986, $50.95 + shipping:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4986/

 

[Toolman]

I like mine better:

 

[jonheese]

Shyeah, but yours looks like it cost a teensy bit more than $50.95.

 

[gmorrell]

Tim, real men use dual filters...

Click the thumbs for a larger image.

Here's the dual remote filter I did before I went with the Vortech blower.


After I built the 3.2L and added the blower, had to move the filters to the driver's side.


How to make a block oil-takeoff adapter when not using the factory oil cooler.


Oil-takeoff on the block.


And just for grins, here's the remote filter on my SVT Contour.

 

[gmorrell]

Looks to me like a SUM-4986, $50.95 + shipping:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4986/

Just a comment or two on this kit. Beware, as these low priced kits often use small bore hose and restrictive fittings. If you're going to go to the trouble of using a high-flow dual filter, it needs to be on nothing less than -10 (5/8" ID) lines.

Additionally, I've looked at some of these low priced takeoff adapters and remote filter mounts and they are the crap-of-the-crap of castings. The internal passages are often rough and full of casting flash, they're just junk. This is actually one of those situations where you do get what you pay for, and there's better stuff out there - Mocal comes to mind.

 

[_JR_]

whats the best mounting location for a kit that has two filters and feeds off of the old oil filter's location. I dont want to tap the oil pan for the set-up.




EDIT: Ya, based from the pictures i would rather spend more and get a lot more. Rubber hoses can crack/get cut a lot easier then a ss braided line. The kit would be required to solve problems, not start new ones lol

 

[gmorrell]

whats the best mounting location for a kit that has two filters and feeds off of the old oil filter's location. I don't want to tap the oil pan for the set-up.

You don't have to tap the oil pan for any of these, in and out are taken care of with the block takeoff adapter.

If you still have a battery and airbox in the engine compartment, your only choice to locate a dual filter is forward of the wheel well, as rbruso showed early in this thread.

 

[Toolman]

Very nice Gary. Question, any reason NOT to use the stock oil cooler? I plan on leaving mine in place.

Also, the unit I am using was actually quite inexpensive guys, EBAY! It is a used nascar part, and it is very high quality. The internal passages are beautiful! It also have lines to feed my turbo (-4), monitor pressure (-4) and temp. It came with -12 lines, but they are very large, and more cumbersome. I chose to ditch the used lines and go with all new -10 hardware and lines, so the cost did go up some. But still, it will last a lifetime, and I have no worries about a rubber hose coming off a barbed fitting. Oiling is something I don't mind going a little overboard with.

But now Gary has me all knotted up with filter envy!!

 

[_JR_]

dont worry, 1 purolator filter is worth 8 fram filters. You're still ahead by a mile.

 

[rbruso]

Great, now I need a better setup.

Very nice pics. I'll upgrade eventually.

I still like having a straight shot down to the ground below filters. Less cleanup after.

If you don't use wrapped line I'd recommend cutting some spare hose, slitting it, and sliding it over the actual oil lines where you attach them to the car. Mine are zip-tied to the horn and both lines have an extra layer of protection.

I'm also curious about pulling the oil cooler. Was it introducing heat into the oil or was it for clearance?