Reliability of 2010-2012 engines? Mileage numbers?

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shaker281

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From another thread regarding a failed timing chain:

Sounds like a standard problem with SHO's for 2010 to 2012 at least with higher mileage. Ford under engineered the timing chain ...

Is this accurate? Are we seeing a lot of these engines failing for this reason?

My 2010 is at 112,000. How about you other guys with 2010-2012 engines? What mileage numbers are you at?
Tuned or untuned?
 

ridered74

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I sold my 2011 with a little over 169K miles. I bought it with just over 100K and it had the timing chain rattle at startup. Tuned for about the last 62K miles, never did anything with the timing chain and still ran strong when I sold it. I've seen some for sale with over 200K.
 

SHOdded

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Issues mostly stem from under-maintenance. The Ecoboost does much better with OCD maintenance for sure.
 

rubydist

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But I have seen some techs and videos online that suggest changing water pump and timing chain around 150k is a very good idea.
 

marius883

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99k miles on my 2010 currently, bought it with 69k.
Tuned since about 70k, my PTU went out this year, I also have the rattle on startup. A hose cracked, causing a boost leak. Other than that it runs great!
 

Chris Horner

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Stock 2012 PP with 90k miles. I’m not easy on it. Runs like a top. Bought at 50k miles and changed all driveline fluids. Also change oil every 5k miles. No startup rattle.
 

SHOdded

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While there is some Data :D scattered throughout this thread re: maintenance
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/normal-transmission-behavior.131772/
I do hope bpd chimes in on his admittedly OCD routine for maintaining his SHO. Making such a commitment I think is critical to the continued flawless operation of vehicles today. And Fords love their regular maintenance, LOL.
 

twobitcoder

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120k with no engine problems at all. The AWD driveline has always been a bit clunky, though, at certain times usually after spirited driving and the strategy turns off AWD, that's not smooth transition half the time. I need to get the transfer case fluid changed.
 

glockcoma

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2010 - 59,***. ptu failed last fall
Changed the trans fluid durning ptu replacement. Also did all intake small vacuum/boost hoses at the same time.
Ptu vent hose too.
Start up rattle at random. It will go weeks without doing it, then on every cold start for a few days then nothing for awhile.
 

markathome

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2010, 105k miles, tuned since 60k. All original, start up rattle since 50k.

Changed oil first 60k when light came on, Motorcraft synthetic blend. Since then, Amsoil.
Transmission, PTU, antifreeze, brake fluid changed at 60k.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

shaker281

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I guess I should add that I have had the car since 19,000 and changed the oil with QS UD synth each 6000 miles (twice a year). AF, PTU and trans fluid @ 100K. Brake fluid flushed regularly. Plugs around 75K (very worn). Battery every 5 years. Untuned and excellent engine reliability. Other than the worst brakes I have ever had on any vehicle (until I performed 2013 brake upgrade), mostly maintenance free.

Who remembers this?

https://www.motortrend.com/news/for...l-to-baja-1000-turbo-v6-comes-out-alive-9217/

"Two EcoBoost-powered F-150 racers were allowed to compete within the Baja 1000's Stock Engine Truck Class. Although the other F-150 didn't finish in time for an official classification, the successful truck completed the race in 38 hours, 29 minutes, and 58 seconds, which averages to about 27.57 mph over the entire 1061-mile endurance race.

The EcoBoost engine found within this particular truck is accustomed to a rigorous lifestyle. Earlier in the year, it was plucked straight off the Cleveland, Ohio, production line and installed in a stock F-150 to work as a log skidder in Oregon. Job done, it was then tasked with pulling 11,300-pound loads around a NASCAR track in Florida before towing and climbing high-grade mountain roads in Arizona.

This single, unmodified engine has not lived a simple life and has the equivalent of 10 years of operating life under its belt. Nevertheless, the six-cylinder's crankshaft, turbochargers, and direct injection are still working in unison after the challenge of the Baja 1000. The EcoBoost V-6 is now being torn down and analyzed by Ford's powertrain lab to determine the exact amount of wear experienced."

Afterwards they found no appreciable wear on engine internals.
 

rubydist

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I do remember seeing that Ford marketing video they made at the time. Very impressive how they beat on that engine and it just kept going. Like the Energizer bunny...
 

SHOdded

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Mostly minor changes to powertrain. More on the control side, i.e., PCM. Sketchy on details but it was quite a chore for tuners to figure out how to tune.

The fuel system was improved tho to handle higher rail pressure in 2013+, by almost 700 psi.
 

AZ-SHO

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2010 w/ 135k. Changed all the fluids (trans, ptu, rear diff, coolant) when I bought it at 117k . Been tuned since then as well. No timing chain rattle.

No issues with the motor, though I did find a fair bit of oil in the charge pipes today when checking resistance on the transmission range sensor today. Been having issues with the trans, but the motor runs great and pulls hard.
 

Shadow351

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I just did the 195k mile oil change in my 2010, I however have only owned it for just over a year and it had 178k on it when I got it. I do have some records from before I owned it, and there is nothing major listed (lots of wheel bearings tho). Since I've owned it, I have done quite a bit, some necessary, some just preventative.

It had a startup rattle when I bought it, and the dealer didn't want to mess with it, so I feel I got a good deal on it. A couple weeks after I bought it, I pulled the timing cover and replaced all the timing chains, guides, tensioners, water pump, and oil pump (I started getting sporadic low oil pressure warnings so I opted to change the $30 pump while I was in there). I also put new front struts (it would clunk going over bumps), stabilizer links, all 4 tie rod ends, brake pads & rotors...and both front wheel bearings (only 1 was howling). In an attempt to firm up a mushy brake pedal (bleeding didn't help) I replaced the rear calipers (which also didn't help). I also replaced the rear wheel bearings as they started to howl this summer (I'm beginning to see a trend here, good thing the replacement bearings have a lifetime warranty). It is my daily driver, and even at 195k miles, I wouldn't hesitate to take it on a 1000 mile trip tomorrow, if I had to.
 

AZ-SHO

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I just did the 195k mile oil change in my 2010, I however have only owned it for just over a year and it had 178k on it when I got it. I do have some records from before I owned it, and there is nothing major listed (lots of wheel bearings tho). Since I've owned it, I have done quite a bit, some necessary, some just preventative.

It had a startup rattle when I bought it, and the dealer didn't want to mess with it, so I feel I got a good deal on it. A couple weeks after I bought it, I pulled the timing cover and replaced all the timing chains, guides, tensioners, water pump, and oil pump (I started getting sporadic low oil pressure warnings so I opted to change the $30 pump while I was in there). I also put new front struts (it would clunk going over bumps), stabilizer links, all 4 tie rod ends, brake pads & rotors...and both front wheel bearings (only 1 was howling). In an attempt to firm up a mushy brake pedal (bleeding didn't help) I replaced the rear calipers (which also didn't help). I also replaced the rear wheel bearings as they started to howl this summer (I'm beginning to see a trend here, good thing the replacement bearings have a lifetime warranty). It is my daily driver, and even at 195k miles, I wouldn't hesitate to take it on a 1000 mile trip tomorrow, if I had to.

I saw in the VIN reports via Carfax, etc. on my car that wheel bearings seemed frequent, about every 30k or so. I wonder if this is a recurring theme for other owners? I'm curious what the cause is on that, because that is definitely excessive. No noise here so far, hoping that continues.
 

abs

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Although I have a 2010 Flex with EB, it is the same drivetrain as listed here. I had a water pump fail at around 105k miles. I put in a reman Ford engine which has been good so far.

Regarding the wheel bearings, I ultimately gave up on the OEM Ford parts and put in Timken parts which have been great. I have noticed that Ford is skimping heavily on lubricants. Wheel bearings are failing due almost certainly due to lubrication issues. Brake caliper slide pins freeze up quickly due to poor choice of grease. Timing chain wear occurs, in part, due to under spec'd oil for the demands placed on it by the EB engine. Bottom line, it is a trend and it is intentional to save a few quarters, if that, on every wheel bearing Ford makes.
 

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