Put new fuel pump in, and still nothing....

[TimboSHO]

Hi, i'd like to thank you all for your previous help, i got the felpro gasket set and installed it, and i also got a new fuel pump and installed that. But it's still not starting up. I don't even hear the fuel pump turn on. I checked the computer module thing with the M on it in front, but the connections look clean. Would i need a whole new box? When i crank it, the rpms just go to about 1500 and it keeps cranking. I don't know what to do! Please help! Thanks

 

[sdpatt]

The box with the M on it, is that the integrated control module above the radiator on the driver's side? Try having someone crank the engine as you bump that module with your hand. If you hear a click an the fuel pump fires up then you need a new control module. That box has the relays for the fuel pump, radiator fan and A/C compressor clutch. If it has failed, you must replace the entire box. It is a simple swap.

 

[TimboSHO]

I tried having someone bump the control module while i cranked it, and still nothing. No clicking either, and no fuel pump noise. What else could be wrong?

 

[TimboSHO]

Where would i be able to find an integrated control module if i needed one? I looked all over online, and also www.fordpartsonline.com wasn't working....

 

[Todds93SHO]

I saw one on Ebay, I think it's the one. Try the link below.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1852412049

 

[SHO SPD]

I am having the same problem with mine, I bought a new module, and still nothing. What else is there? I have no fuel pressure

 

[RStalveyARFF]

On a customer's car I had a similar problem. We got tach movement, module was good, CPS was good. Check your fuel pump inertia switch located behind the rug on the left side of the trunk. Just imagine the same location of the fuel door, just on the other side. Press that switch down and try again. If that doesn't solve it, there could be a break in your engine wiring harness.

 

[snowwind1990]

I have to have a little history here..We are missing something.
What gasket did you replace?
What symptoms did you have, that made you think the fuel pump was not good to begin with. Leave the "M" box out of the loop for the time being. Before it comes to the Integrated Relay Control Module black box other things will have been happening. Lemmeknow!
[email protected]
Ma Ma M eek! eek! eek!

 

[TimboSHO]

Snowwind1990---
1.I tried swaping the battery for a bigger one, because i thought mine was going.
2. Battery didn't fit, put original back in.
3. Didn't tighten connectors enough on old battery, tried starting and high drain from starting caused the connection to be lost.
4. Got it started, drove about .5 miles to house, ran great, but a little 'laggish' at lower rpms (>2500).
5. Went to start it up again about 30 mins later, and battery was dead.
6. Tried popping clutch, but it didn't work.
7. Got a jump (from another taurus and it started up and ran, but again had the 'lag' at lower rpms.
8. Got home and turned it off, then it wouldn't start at all.
9. Listened for fuel pump to turn on, no sound.
10. Checked inertia switch, along with continuity and it's all good.
11. Replaced pump.
12. Replaced valve gaskets (nothing to do with fuel pump situation)
13. Tried starting car, still no fuel pump sound.
14. Removed connector from fuel pump, and checked voltage. Putting the negative (-) probe of the volt meter on the black wire, and the positive (+) probe on the yellow, the meter read "7.8" volts, or so. THIS IS WITH THE IGNITION ON.
15. Connected + probe to the pink wire (- is still on black) which runs through inertia switch to ECM, and the Meter read "2.0" volts.
16. -probe on black wire; + probe on orange wire resulted in no reading.

None of the readings changed during the first couple of seconds after the ingnition was turned on, when you'd normally hear the fuel pump pressurizing the lines. They all displayed the above readings constantly (ignition on).

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

 

[jbeano]

Once you've checked the battery for voltage. Look for something close to 13 volts.
I would start by checking to make sure that the wires to the pump are good. Disconnect the power wire and see if you've got some resistance across the power wires to the pump. I believe you should have about 5 ohms. If this checks out good then try running a jumper wire from the battery through a fuse ( for short circuit protection) to power up the pump directly. If the pump works then I would check continuity back to the relay and make sure it's getting power.

 

[projectSHO89]

Here's how to diagnose the Fuel pump (FP) electrical circuit. Color codes, circuit description, etc apply to the 89 SHO.

NOTE: The 89 uses a circuit that provides 2 different voltages to the FP (according to the published documents I have available). At idle, power is supplied via a dropping resistor mounted at the top center of the firewall and a relay in the ICM. At higher engine speeds, the ECA energizes another relay in the ICM which bypasses the dropping resistor and applies full battery voltage to the FP. Other years do not
appear to use this feature, but the 90 and 91 ICM schematics still show the extra relays with no external resistor. It's up to you to figure it out.

1. Ground the FP test point on the EEC-IV connector. See the EEC self-test section of the FAQs at http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes.html All voltage readings are referenced to a good chassis ground, unless otherwise specified. This activates the IDLE FP Relay.

2. Fuel pump SHOULD be running. If not, go to Step 3.

3. Measure at pin 5 of the ICM (PK/BK)to ground. You should measure partial battery voltage (I'll measure mine tomorrow). If so, go to step 6.

If reading is full battery voltage, there is an open circuit in the load side - Inertia switch, or FP. Go to step 4.

If reading is 0 volts, GO TO STEP 5.

4. Check inertia switch, reset as needed. Measure voltage on both leads. A good switch will have the same voltage on both leads as measured in step 3 above. If not, jumper across the switch and see if the FP runs. If so, replace the switch. Measure the voltage at the FP terminals. If you measure the same voltage at the input and the ground is good (verify it), replace the FP. If the voltage is lost at some point, you have an open circuit between that point and the previous point that did have voltage.

5. Measure ICM pin 10. If reading is full battery voltage, the FP relay in the ICM is bad. Replace or repair ICM. If reading is 0 volts, check the voltages on both leads of dropping resistor. If the readings are both 0 volts, there is an open circuit between the reistor and Fuse Link J. If one lead of
the resistor measures 0 volts and the other side reads battery voltage, the resistor is open. You can temporarily jump the resistor to see if the pump will run.

6. The FP should be running at "idle" speed. Listen carefully or have an assistant help.

Hope this helps. Comments or corrections are welcome.

Steve
89

 

[halfasspunk]

I hate to dredge up old topics, but I'm having this problem, is this procedure the same for a 93, becuase i couldnt see a pink and black wire in the ICM.

 

[projectSHO89]

The procedure are almost the same. Variations are:

For the 93 MTX:

In step 3, Pin 5 (PINK/BLACK) should read full battery voltage. If so, go to step 4.

In step 5, Pins 1,2,3,4,7 (all BLACK/ORANGE) and pin 12 (Yellow) should all have battery voltage

For the 93 ATX:

Step 3 is the same as for the MTX

Step 5 needs to be changed to check only pin 12 (YELLOW) for battery voltage. The other pins mentioned above also shuould have battery voltage on them, but they are not as relevent for testing the FP cirucit.

BTW, according to the schematics, the 93 ATX and MTX CCRMs are not interchangeable.

As for locating the correct wire, find the 5th wire in from a corner that has four BLACK/ORANGE wires in the first four positions.


Steve

 

[haydenm315]

SHO91MTX:
On a customer's car I had a similar problem. We got tach movement, module was good, CPS was good. Check your fuel pump inertia switch located behind the rug on the left side of the trunk. Just imagine the same location of the fuel door, just on the other side. Press that switch down and try again. If that doesn't solve it, there could be a break in your engine wiring harness.

I ran into that switch problem before. I was using a hammer to bang out a fender to allow it to clear the tire better. It was in an accident recently thanks to my friend. The banging of the hammer on the fender tripped the switch and the car wouldn't start. There was no buzzing noise or priming of the fuel pump when turning the key to on. Upon flipping that switch the car came back to life. I guess that switch is designed to trip during an accident to shut the cars off and reduce the risk of leakage.