Ptu humming along

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The_Auto_Tech

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You can just build your own vent tube. Just remove the factory jiggle cap vent, install a barbed fitting (or similar), run some hose to wherever you want the opening to sit (mine is rubber clamped to the thermostat housing bolt), and put a regular old differential vent jiggle cap on the end of it. Will cost you about 15 bucks and you can route it however you want. It's no different than any truck or SUV style diff vent.
 

StumpZ

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Should I have the input and output seals changed on the used PTU while installing?
 

GTRPhilly

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Any more info on the wheel bearings ? I’m thinking the same on my car. Starts at about 20 mph and sounds like it’s coming from rear passenger side. Sounds like an unbalanced tire, or like I have knobbies / truck tires.

Any help is appreciated.
I had a humming at speed. Thought it was the PTU. Replaced it. Drove it again and still had the humming. It was my wheel bearings.
 

StumpZ

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Any more info on the wheel bearings ? I’m thinking the same on my car. Starts at about 20 mph and sounds like it’s coming from rear passenger side. Sounds like an unbalanced tire, or like I have knobbies / truck tires.

Any help is appreciated.
Hi. My noise turned out to be a rear passenger wheel bearing. Changed it this past weekend. Not a difficult DIY repair but it took some work getting the old wheel bearing to free up from the hub. I did change the PTU as well and no more gear oil smell. Also had a weird wandering in the steering that was the PTU as well. Big difference now.
 

ticoscen

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Any more info on the wheel bearings ? I’m thinking the same on my car. Starts at about 20 mph and sounds like it’s coming from rear passenger side. Sounds like an unbalanced tire, or like I have knobbies / truck tires.

Any help is appreciated.
Yes. I replaced both front bearing and humming went away. PTU was probably just fine. I still have it somewhere.
 

StumpZ

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did you just use a hub puller? I need to do mine soon. Right rear
The hub puller did nothing for me, car is from PA. My right rear was a bitch. Ended up cutting off two wheel studs and threading in hardened bolts to finally free it.
 

ticoscen

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Some drive a chisel in between the hub and the knuckle to start it moving if corrosion has it stuck. Use copper anti seize on the reinstall to make it easier for next time and eliminate oxides from forming on the aluminum and steel. Other's use a long bolt through one of the hubs threads to push on the knuckle and pop it off with a impact driver.
 

yaycandy

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Yea the thread that the rotor bolts to. You can rotate it to find a landing to impact to. I may try that. I have a PA car. 145k miles and completely rust free. Still looks new under since i do under body detail twice a year. Ill change them out eventually this year. I see pp and non pp are different part numbers but not sure on the differences. H ell i may even diasble the abs while im down there. Cant have fun with abs, its what controls TC and ESC. These new time cars need to let their owners be the drivers and not just a consultant
 

Texas Marauder

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IIRC, the non PP uses the same hub and bearing at all four corners. PP uses those rear only. Fronts are larger.
 

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