Post Timing Chain issue

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Shoplus80

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I recently replaced my timing chain and water pump on my 2012 SHO PP and now I have a really rough idle as well as a loud ticking from the back valve cover closest to the firewall. I did take it out for a spin and above 1000 RPM the car seems to run fine and then code p030 pop, which it misfire on cylinder 3. I pulled the coils and plugs and didn't notice anything off about them. I am worried that I might have misaligned the timing marks, if this is true would I be able to start my car? I would like to have some input from anyone that had done the timing chain or any other insight would be great.
 

Johnbigdog

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If you only have a number 3 misfire, you likely didn't screw up the timing. If you did, it would affect the whole bank.

I would treat it as a single cylinder misfire before going to deep. If you have noise, there may be a valve train fault causing the misfire. Do you have all your sockets and fasteners?
 

luigisho

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swap the plug and coil to another cylinder and see if the miss follows. That will let you know if it's the parts or your recent labor.
 

yaycandy

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If it continues to be cylinder 3 after checking ignition then do a compression test and/or a leak down test to tell if its a carboned up valve or a cylinder issue
 

Shoplus80

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So I did the compression test today and I am getting 75psi on all cylinders since the push start only cranks that long. I also swapped out coil 3 with 1 and the check engine like did not come on so I am really believing I might be one tooth off on my timing. Let me know what you all think.
 

yaycandy

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So I did the compression test today and I am getting 75psi on all cylinders since the push start only cranks that long. I also swapped out coil 3 with 1 and the check engine like did not come on so I am really believing I might be one tooth off on my timing. Let me know what you all think.

Thats good that the compression is consistent on the cylinders, surely takes out alot of what ifs and headaches. Also good that the coil is still works fine. Every engine acts differently to a tooth being off. Especially since this is chain drive and then a small chain between the dohc setup. I know its a pain in the ass to take it back apart but maybe check to see if the cams are aligned the way they should. Also not sure how it reacts if the vvt solenoid is upset, but that should throw a code even if its unplugged. Did you pull the injector rail? Also the injectors throw many codes if something is wrong with one, so no codes for an injector then i wouldnt worry about them. Im just trying to open your mind up to other things that can cause an issue in that area, im sure a few people or less on here have experience dealing with the timing chain. I do all of my own engine work to vehicles and restore them, didnt put my new engine in my sho but if it were me i would check to make sure everything is aligned correctly just to get it crossed off the list.

When i blew my engine i looked at everything and tore the top end down and replaced vvt solenoid, coil, injector and lots else when i had a dead miss on cylinder 2. Few weeks later i finally did a compression test last and it told me right away the cylinder had an internal issue. Then checked it with bore scope and saw the cylinder walls were scored badly. Thats why i said to check compression as one of the first things just to be sure as its pretty easy to do also.
 

Shoplus80

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Yaycandy
Thank you for the info I had been racking my brain all day going over all the steps I took putting it back together. I have come to the fact I need to tear apart and check the timing, especially after doing the compression test and seeing they had the same pressure, this was a load of my shoulders. On the bright side it shouldn’t take as long since it is all fresh in my head. Plus I really enjoy working on cars just not for a living. Again thank you for the input.
 

yaycandy

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Yaycandy
Thank you for the info I had been racking my brain all day going over all the steps I took putting it back together. I have come to the fact I need to tear apart and check the timing, especially after doing the compression test and seeing they had the same pressure, this was a load of my shoulders. On the bright side it shouldn’t take as long since it is all fresh in my head. Plus I really enjoy working on cars just not for a living. Again thank you for the input.

Thats how you become a certain engine platform master. By learning and tearing one apart alot. Its all part of learning and maybe you can help someone out one day on the same issue
 

Shoplus80

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Thats how you become a certain engine platform master. By learning and tearing one apart alot. Its all part of learning and maybe you can help someone out one day on the same issue

So I just finished tearing down the motor once again and found I had been off by one notice, so yah that fixed the issue. It took my time but still created a few issues 1) I broke the back VCT when removing the valve cover, luckily Advance auto had one. 2) I almost .had a heart attack when one of the bolts for timing chain tensioner snapped but I was able to get the end sticking out of the block. Other then that it was fun taking it apart and I agree this give you a better insight into your car. That was how I got so good at repairing my old 91 SHO, I really wish I still had that it was so much fun to drive. Thanks again for the insight and help


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Shoplus80

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Ok so now it has been a few days since I got my car back on the road and it seems I am having a hard time purging the cooling system of air. The symptoms are: engine will heat up normally but once I get on the road it starts to heat up but cools down when I brake or take a corner. It then goes up again once I get to speed. To me it looks like I have a air pocket in the system that does not want to come out. I did conduct the air purge procedure called out in the Ford manual a few times but it has me worried that I might have a bad head gasket. Any help would be great.


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yaycandy

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I wouldnt bank on it being the headgasket yet. If you had no issues before doing the work. Took me awhile to get all the air pockets out. Running it for awhile with the cap off with heater on max. Just takes awhile
 

Shoplus80

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You I had thought that but didn’t know if it would be a good idea with this system I will have to try that.


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yaycandy

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Its not the correct way but it always works. Just takes some time. Keep it full and let it run for awhile. And come back and add some. I tore off my intake manifold at least 4 times and even did thermostats a few times and its all i ever did.

@Ecoboost_xsport should have some better info as he does his own work also.
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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Yeah, when I did my coolant flush it took a long time to make sure I had the level right. Had to fill and then drive it to temp and check, top off, and repeat.

But just for giggles...are your fans kicking on as required? From the brief explanation you gave first thought was fans aren't cycling properly...just a thought....
 

Shoplus80

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I thought the same thing and checked that the fans were running. I may pull the T-stat and put an new one in just for the **** of it, cheap and easy. I have also decided to flush the systems this weekend and put the Motorcraft Gold coolant and if that helps since I do not want to pay $40 plus for the orange stuff.
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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I thought the same thing and checked that the fans were running. I may pull the T-stat and put an new one in just for the **** of it, cheap and easy. I have also decided to flush the systems this weekend and put the Motorcraft Gold coolant and if that helps since I do not want to pay $40 plus for the orange stuff.
The new stuff is the yellow, not gold. Gold was a few iterations ago. I switched to the yellow from the orange.
 

yaycandy

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Wonder if you can mix the two. I gotta do my intake manifold spacer soon and really dont wanna do a full flush
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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Shoplus80

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Well i have the Gold on hand and even the guy in the above video said it was his favorite one of the last 4 Ford coolants so i don't see any harm in using it. but i am curious if the Yellow will work with the gold.
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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Well i have the Gold on hand and even the guy in the above video said it was his favorite one of the last 4 Ford coolants so i don't see any harm in using it. but i am curious if the Yellow will work with the gold.

No...not even a little bit...it even says it in the video at the end.

From article: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/ford-going-back-to-yellow-antifreeze-for-2020.314487/

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