Persistent code 19.

[SHOmetheway]

Guys, I've got an '89 (MTX) with 117k miles and no mods. A couple of weeks ago was driving down the highway and the engine intermittently missed a beat or two, and developed a slight yet intermittent "bucking" (after being stopped then going thru the gears and getting up to speed) over the next few days. I first thought it might have been crappy gas or water in the tank/gas, so I filled it up with 93 octane (what I always use) and put in a bottle of heet to absorb any water. Still same problem. I ran the codes and got a KOEO code of 11 and a continuous memory code of 19.

My code scanner is an Actron Mfg. with book published in 1997, and lists a
code 19 as: "Failure in Electronic Control Assembly (ECA) - problems with
internal voltage regulator. -or- RPM too low for EGR check during Engine
Run Self-Test. -or- Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor input failure".

The dalidesign.com site lists a code 19 as: "(O) No Vehicle Power (pins 37
+ 57) or bad PCM - VPWR Diagnosis.
(R) Erratic idle during test (reset throttle & retest) - Idle Set Procedures
Electronic ignition Cylinder ID sensor/circuit problem - Ignition Systems "

After researching this forum and a couple other sites, I checked the spark plug wells for oil - three were dry, found a few drops in three, and cleaned those out. I then decided to replace the camshaft position sensor (CPS), but that didn't resolve the problem - a continuous memory code of 14 (as well as the 19) jumped into the mix.

More research and I decided it might be the OTHER CPS (crankshaft position sensor), so I decided to go ahead with a front 60K since one hadn't been done in 8-9 years and about 60-70k miles. I replaced the timing belt, 2 acc. belts, water pump (old one was not leaking), crankshaft postion sensor, 3 camshaft seals, main front seal, lower rad. hose, and 2 heater hoses for fun and grins. Thanks to Joshua Langevin and Scott Patterson at the SHO Phoenixproject at http://www.shophoenixproject.com/ for a great how-to guide on that front 60k.

After the front 60k, the problem got worse with more codes added, but I realized after an engine bay search that I had stupidly forgotten to reconnect a 2-wire plug to a doo-dad at the back of the intake above the #3 cylinder area. (Murphy's Law has to happen to me occasionally so I don't forget it exists)

Now it's been a couple of days and after a few drives, it has seemingly performed fine except for once it gave me a little "buck" during acceleration. It still shows the same continuous code 19 (I do erase the codes after I check them). I don't like surprises, especially with a car and out on the road, so would really like to get this code 19 problem nailed before it does the same to me.

I've checked my battery and it puts out 12.8 volts when engine not running, and 14.1 volts with engine at idle. Does anyone know what the "Electronic Control Assembly (ECA)" relates to in today's SHO vocabulary? Does it (as well as the alternator, I think) have its own internal voltage regulator that could have gone bad? Is it the same as the IRCM? -is that the little 4"x4" metal black box under the plastic ledge, right above the radiator? -also called a "powertrain control module" or "PCM relay" or even a "fuel pump relay"?
Mine has a part #E9DF-12B577-AA with a big letter M on the label.

Could it be the ECM, whatever/wherever exactly that is?

rangerj shows a good schematic of the DIS module and a "Control module" in some of his posts - is that control module the IRCM, and same thing as described above? Could the DIS be causing this problem?

Gentlemen, I am stumped. Thanks for any help.

 

[Rockledge]

Code 19 can mean a few things, depending on which "test mode" it is taken from. You indicate it's a Continuous Memory Code 19, so that has to be a "CID circuit failure" code. It means the engine computer (a/k/a "Control Module", "ECA", "ECM", "ECU", or more commonly, "PCM") is not getting a good Cylinder Identification signal. I realize that you have replaced the CID sensor (a/k/a camshaft position sensor) as well as the seal behind it, but the CID circuit is where the code is pointing. How did the harness connector look?

The ICRM (a/k/a CCRM) is indeed the black box underneath the plastic ledge covering the radiator. It contains several relays (fuel and cooling fan, among others). It is not the same thing as the engine computer.

BTW, welcome to SHOForum.

 

[SHOmetheway]

Thanks, Rockledge. The plug to the CID sensor *appears* to be okay. You had posted the following from Rangerj before; I want to run the CID to sensor check, but have a question: I unplug the plug from the CID, then connect one end of the LED light to the Dark Green wire/terminal in the plug, and the other end to the neg. battery terminal? -leaving the two plugs on the DIS module still plugged-in, right?

Rangerj has put together a nice write-up on how to test the SHO's ignition system components/curcuit:

Quote:
First of all a couple of precautions.

1. Always connect or disconnect connections or test leads with the ignition OFF. Before switching test functions, say from an ohms resistance test to a voltage test, disconnect the test leads.

2. Use only an LED (Light Emitting Diode) test lamp. Do not use a test probe with an incandescent bulb for testing circuits containing electronic components.

3. Use only a Digital Multi meter (DMM) to check circuits resistance or continuity on electronic (solid state) components. Use only a high quality DMM having high input impedance (at least 10 megohm). Do NOT use an analog (swing needle) meter to check circuit resistance or continuity on electronic components.

The above sage advice, regarding testing and working on electronic components, is attributable to Steve (projectSHO89), and SHOZ123. Thanks guys. All that having been said, here is how to test your CPS, (aka PIP or CKP) to control unit.

Connect a DMM or LED test light between the PIP wire (DB Dark Blue) and the negative battery terminal. Then crank the engine. The test light should blink, or the DMM should read between 3 to 7 volts. If NOT, the crank sensor, crank sensor POWER or GROUND, or wiring is faulty.

PIP signal is OK, then next test, SPOUT to DIS module. Connect DMM or LED to SPOUT wire( Y/LG Yellow Light Green stripe) and negative battery terminal, then crank engine. You should get 3 to 7 volts or the test light blinks. If NOT, the control unit or wiring( including connection) is faulty. If OK, next test.

Connect DMM or LED test light between the IDM wire(GY/O Grey/Orange stripe) and negative battery terminal and crank the engine. Again 3 to 7 volts or the LED light blinks. If NOT DIS wiring or module faulty. If OK, next test.

CID to Sensor. Connect LED test light between CID CS wire (DG Dark Green) and negative battery terminal and crank engine. The test light should blink. If not, CID sensor or wiring is faulty. If OK, next test.

COIL PWR. Connect LED test light between COIL PWR (VBAT) wire and negative battery terminal and put the key on. The light should be ON (LIGHT UP). If not COIL PWR wiring faulty.

DIS electrical tests concluded. Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[Rockledge]

have a question: I unplug the plug from the CID, then connect one end of the LED light to the Dark Green wire/terminal in the plug, and the other end to the neg. battery terminal? -leaving the two plugs on the DIS module still plugged-in, right?

My understanding is that the CID sensor harness connector remains attached, and that you are to "backprobe" the signal (DG) wire coming out.

The DIS should be attached when you are checking the CID circuit as described.


Hopefully, rangerj can confirm or clarify.

 

[SHOmetheway]

Persistent code 19 - fixed.

Finally got this problem nailed about 2 weeks ago, but wanted to be sure it stayed fixed (I'm knocking on wood), and seemingly has.

I was advised by a SHO specialist that the computer was not the problem, and it was probably in the wiring.
After researching more on what the ECA was (and if different from the EEC or PCM or the ECM) and wiring diagrams and pinouts, I did a continuity check on much of the ignition system wiring to verify the CKP and CID wiring was good all the way back to the wiring harness 60-pin plug going into the EEC. It was. The 60-pin plug pinout description can be seen here: www.merkurencyclopedia.com/EEC-IV/EECTEC10.PDF and the schematic wiring diagram for the SHO can be seen here: www.denniswolfe.com/Taurus/RepairGuide/Repair.htm
The ignition system wiring test is listed in this post and in several others by Rangerj. *Keep in mind that the 60-pin diagram is for the pins on the computer - you will have to view the 60-pin plug of the wiring harness on the engine side of the firewall as a mirror image!

The Electronic Control Assembly is indeed the main computer, located behind the firewall and above the glovebox. Also known as the Electronic Engine Control and Electronic Control Module.

I opted to buy an ECA/EEC from a Ford dealer in Boston for $150 which was a reman unit from a Motorola facility, which I felt a little better about than $107 -$130 from NAPA and another place, and I could get it about a week quicker. Not to mention a "used" one locally at a junkyard that they wouldn't budge from $75! I usually do NOT go with the low bidder - I've learned. Those things are just about impossible to find at a Ford dealer. Also, seems reman units are not all reman the same - some replace only the failed component in the EEC, others replace all the components in the EEC that are prone to failure. Anyway, I put in the new EEC, cleared the codes, got the idle stabilized and once again my 15-year-old machine is running fine.

Now on to (hopefully sooner rather than later) the upper 60k.