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93rev2sev

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Clearcoat application failure analysis:

I've got all the bugs and nibs out of that first clear coat. I knocked it all down with a very light 400 grit on a block. In doing so, I've found a couple of places that want more base coat; like the passenger rocker panel near the rear tire and under the upper door seals and windshield drip rail. All the things will be covered in the end, but still - they're getting all your base while I have the opportunity.

As for having to sand everything again? I don't blame the bugs. I blame my inexperience. I should have been prepared to pick out bugs between coats. I could be driving it right now.

The first time I sprayed the clear, I just tried to spray everything and sweep across the car from front to back...trying in vain to maintain a wet edge as I went. It was impossible to keep the spray pattern consistent because I had to slow down and hit corners....remember where I left off, start back up and try to blend back into the pattern I left...it makes perfect sence now that I've done it once and I'm sure I've read about it but tacit knowledge trumps all.

I was afraid that if I shot the corners and then came back to shoot the panel, I'd have problems getting it to flow, and that I'd be spraying over that dust. The truth is that there's plenty of time to shoot the hard to reach places (on the whole car) and then come back over it, panel by panel. The final pass will just melt right in. Even ten minutes later. I was surprised how well it flowed back out even when I was done and started to pick out bugs. I shouldn't have given up, actually. I should have been prepared to pick bugs out between coats and after. I had no idea I could pick out a big ass mosquito and it would flow back so nicely for so long after the clearcoat film had been setting up. I picked a lot of bugs out even a half hour after cleaning my gun and there's only a few legs left in there. :biggrin:

This time, I'll go front to back spraying corners, edges and those hard to reach spots that I added basecoat to and once I get to the back, I'll start forward again with a nice solid "panel to panel" strategy that will allow me to keep the gun at the right distance and angle for the entire length of the panel. When I get to the front and I'm done, I'll shut off the fans, close the doors and pick out any bugs I see.

Oh and next time, I'll toss the gun in the trash and immediately start to pick out bugs LOL. We're all going to see what a rookie can do with a $30 Harborfreight HVLP gun. Someone on this forum once said it was such a crappy gun he wouldn't shoot primer with it...or something like that.
 

quikSHOilver

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What spray gun you using? Old conventional or HVLP at least 1.3mm-1.4mm? Dont bother with harborfreight crap gun... try get sharpe or devilbliss at decent price.

Nonetheless still great work...yes what you and others especially norman mentioned is right on. Cannot believe missed this thread!
 
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93rev2sev

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What spray gun you using? Old conventional or HVLP at least 1.3mm-1.4mm? Dont bother with harborfreight crap gun... try get sharpe or devilbliss at decent price.

It was $37.50 for TWO guns. I'm pretty sure that these guns...even as crappy as you and everyone else says they are - more capable of laying down a nice finish than I am...so they'll do just fine.

I have a very nice conventional binks that I payed pretty good money for in 98' and it does nothing near a nice a finish as these harborfreight "garbage guns".


Image 2989
 
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Tom, as you've been doing this, I've also been reading in Car Craft magazine about painting, guns, materials, what works, etc. I like that magazine because they're regular guys, tackling jobs they've never done.

They evaluated a few guns, ranging in price from $500 and up, to the Harbor Freight guns. Of course the pricier guns worked better once they got the hang of using them, but it took them a while (and lots of materials) to get to that point. In the end, they liked a gun from Eastwood that was about $100. They also commented that for the money, the Harbor Freight guns were a good deal, and would likely do just as good a job in the hands of an inexperienced painter as the most expensive ones would.

I'm pretty sure I'm on board with their line of thinking, and yours too. Cheap gun, because I'm inexperienced, and do a little more labor in wetsanding and buffing to get the results I want.

Nice job, thank you for documenting your progress!
 

93rev2sev

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Car craft does those articles every so often and they're actually the ones that convinced me to give it a try 12 years ago with my Fairlane.

Newrearquarterview
 

93rev2sev

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I just got done spraying. I'm hopefull that I'll be able to live with the end result. I got at least one pretty good run and I think I scratched the base coat in a couple places. We shall see.

There was no bug problem tonight since I got done before dark so I was able to turn off the lights and walk away. All in all I think it looks pretty decent for a once every 10 years auto painter on his second attempt ever (please suggest some other excuses if you think of any).

No pics until it's tack free and I can turn the lights back on without bugs sticking to it.
 

St Louis SHO

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That was me who said I wouldnt shoot primer with a harbor freight gun. I still stick to my guns there, but, more power to ya for doing more work in the end. Either way, it'll turn out just fine.

- James

PS: looking fcking great so far!
 

93rev2sev

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Except for the scratches in the basecoat (I guess I'll call those my signature) I think it'll turn out OK.

IMG00017 20110714 2126

IMG00018 20110714 2127

IMG00023 20110714 2132

IMG00024 20110714 2134

IMG00025 20110714 2134

IMG00026 20110714 2137
 
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NotSoSlowSHO

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That looks great from here :)

Im sure the camera hides a lot of very small imperfections, but so long as the clear coat is thick enough a good cut and polish should sort most of it out.

Props on the thorough paint job :salute:


Want to come to Idaho and do mine??
 

JRA2000TL

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Nice work! Had I repainted my 90 I had, I probably would have kept it. I actually love that light titanium color. I'm enjoying the 89 though; they're much more special.
 

93rev2sev

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I'm done. For now, anyway. I finished up with 2000 and polished it to the best of my ability. There are still some spots that need work and I have to finish assembling it but for the first time in years...



:partytime:This 1990 SHO has a decent paint job!!!!:partytime:

Pics in the daylight tomorrow.
 

93rev2sev

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OK, trolling for comments...so one more picture. Still need door handles, one piece of bumper-headlight gap molding, and to repolish the driver's side rear door and quarter panel.

Oh...and rocker panel covers...I'll need those. Gotta get some rivets to resecure the attachment strips.

It's really starting to come together. I'll be painting the b-pillars and bumper stripes black. I haven't decided if I'm going to paint some door handles body color or bumper black, the same as all the other black accents.

Assembled mostly2
 
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