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SuperHO

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okay...this car's about 10 minutes away from getting parked up a large tree. i've been having problems with an ABS sensor screwin with the speedo. it started when something happened to the ABS ring on the passenger side. it got cracked and bent up. fine. replace the axle, but in the process managed to pinch and subsequently sever the sensor wire. replaced the sensor and put another brand new axle in place, and it's STILL not fvcking working. O/D light flashing, speedo and odo not working, manual shifting while having to start in 2nd, no cruise...what the **** is my next step besides an "accidental" electrical fire? oh yeah...codes are an 02 sensor and VSS not reading right, due to the ABS issue, and all fuses are good.
 

SuperHO

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in my frustration, i didn't write them down (i used auto zone's code puller). i'll head back later and have em pulled again.
 

93rev2sev

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Is your wheel bearing tight? If not, the wheel can wander and cause the ABS sensor ring to crash into the sensor?
 

SuperHO

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yup. the only play is a tiny bit from the ball joint after repeated molestation with a pickle fork.
 

stephen newberg

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0411 and 0455 are both emissions codes associated with air injection and such and would not be your problem. You can for the moment ignore those. The other two you can look up in the code section that is a sticky in maintenance. I do not know them off the top of my head.

pax, smn
 

stephen newberg

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Quick check shows the 500 one to be the speed sensor malfunctioning and the 1700 one to be a manufacturers transmission code, rather than an SAE one, if I read the list right. But I agree, check with Kirk or Paul, both of whom have forgotten more about this than I ever knew, I suspect.

pax, smn
 

Mr Anonymous

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Disconnect the ABS computer below and in front of the battery tray (10mm bolt; it can be easier if you remove the battery and tray), blow out the connector on both the harness and the computer with compressed air, and Brakleen if either is really scummy. Inspect the pins for corrosion and clean up any you find with a small wire brush (and clean out again afterwards).

Smear some dielectric grease on the connector and re-connect it tightly. Also check that the ground wire from the back of the pump to the inside of the frame rail is present and intact (could also disconnect and clean but it's a PITA to get to with the battery tray bracket in the way).

Let us know if that helps.
 

venom

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Disconnect the ABS computer below and in front of the battery tray (10mm bolt; it can be easier if you remove the battery and tray), blow out the connector on both the harness and the computer with compressed air, and Brakleen if either is really scummy. Inspect the pins for corrosion and clean up any you find with a small wire brush (and clean out again afterwards).

Smear some dielectric grease on the connector and re-connect it tightly. Also check that the ground wire from the back of the pump to the inside of the frame rail is present and intact (could also disconnect and clean but it's a PITA to get to with the battery tray bracket in the way).

Let us know if that helps.

And if it doesn't its another dead POS Bosch ABS module, a single failure of a wheel speed sensor will not cause your speedo to drop to zero. You can unplug on and the speedo should still work fine (but the ABS should store a code too).

Each one lasted about 80K on our 99. It has 170 on it now - yep I've replaced that POS thing twice, first time indications started with the LF wheel speed sensor, replaced that - no help. rechecked ring on axle no problems there, then the LF started locking up when braking at a track day with NO ABS LIGHT... Lived with that for awhile, then the speedo started dropping to zero......

The wires inside the ABS computer (below and forward of the battery tray) are very fragile and poorly connected to the terminals internally. After you remove the computer simply touching these wires can break them off. I haven't confirmed but i suspect they are pure silver and when the get welded or fused tot he terminals they get smashed quite thin.

The job is a total PITA, and it really depends on how hard your battery tray comes out for you.

The only good news is that any year V8 SHO module will work just fine (no matter what Ford says) so you should be able to get one from a Junkyard for sub $50 if you shop around. Don't price the part from your dealer if they still have them they are north of a grand.

I'd start shopping for a module... That's the easy part the install totally sucks.
 

SuperHO

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...splendid...between my wife working goofy hours and me being flat-on-my-ass sick, I haven't had a chance to check the connector. I guess I should start scouring junkyards around here for a V8 SHO, which are as rare as hen's teeth...
 

venom

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...splendid...between my wife working goofy hours and me being flat-on-my-ass sick, I haven't had a chance to check the connector. I guess I should start scouring junkyards around here for a V8 SHO, which are as rare as hen's teeth...

car-part.com shows plenty of them available for $40 or so. The closest one to you is 90 miles away.... Sounds like having someone ship one is your best bet.
 

SuperHO

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is there any way to test the module rather than throwing more parts at it, hoping the problem goes away?
 

venom

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is there any way to test the module rather than throwing more parts at it, hoping the problem goes away?

If the PCM is reporting the speed input error code, and the ABS light isn't on it almost has to be the module, or possibly the wiring from the module to the PCM.

But if history is any indicator it is much more likely to be the module as I have never heard of a wiring problem for these symptoms being the cause.
 

SuperHO

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Isn't it odd that the speedo issue has never popped up except for when one of the tone rings has gone to shit? I'll rip it apart tommorrow and inspect the harness.
 

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