Overheating

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vance580

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Well got one for you guys.. SHO is overheating not to the point of hitting the red area of the guage. So here is what I've done : new radiator, new heatercore, 3 new sensors (and by 3 new i mean i replaced it 3 times just to be sure) that tell the fans to turn on forgot the name at the moment, new ccrm, new thermostat, new radiator cap, new sensor to tell the guage what to read forgot that one too, flushed coolant and refilled and checked boiling freezing points all within spec, nothing blocking the airflow, checked for flow while running with cap off definitly flowing, car is still overheating after all this need to know if there is anything else which could be causing this.

Also fan kicks on with a/c like its supposed to but when the guage hits the bottom on the n is when it will finally kick on just driving normal and will drop the guage quick then it shuts off about just above the m.

Need ideas what else could be causing this I'd like to get my sho running good enough that i'm not stareing at the guage the whole time driving.

Thanks for any help in advance.
 

vance580

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Its definitly hotter than it should be cause you cant touch anything under the hood like I used to be able to do intake tubes feel like your touching a cat after driving for 3 hours. So I know its definitly hotter than it should be.
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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You still need to determine EXACTLY how hot it is getting.

And the intake will get very hot in stop and go traffic. Heat soak.
 

vance580

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Will try and check this tomorrow if it doesnt rain. Will post results then. How should i check this stick a thermometer in the radiator while its running or what????
 

SHO_Diehard

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Where does the gauge line out when the A/C is running? Also, is this a 180 degree or 195 degree thermostat? I think my cars with the hotter thermostat line out between R and M with the AC running.

I don't drive with the AC off very often, but the temp always seems to move around more and get higher on the gauge. I believe the fan kicks on at 210 or so, per some other posts.
 

vance580

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I have the 195 thermostat when i had the ac on it ran about the same as you dont run my ac though. Thats on the list of fixes after i figure out this coolant issue. The car also went from running around the A constantly to this it used to sit there then started moving and about a week later the upper radiator hose blew and i replaced that then all this started so thats when i started to replace said objects.
 

smak

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anyone think it could be a lean air/fuel mix causing hotter than normal combustion temps?

its what i think i'm up against right now as my emissions test resulted in high NOx (double allowable)

temps creep into the N of normal during anything sustained over 2500rpm like in highway driving.. keeping lower rpm/idle in city traffic maintains decent temps for the most part unless i'm out for a while.

super hot engine after only short trips also. when i unscrew my oil fillter cap i get a bit of steam rising out of the crankcase.

i put in an injector cleaner solution for this tank of gas and changed fuel filter so far. may try switch to paper filter tomorrow (using k&n now).

will probably just do o2's and upper 60k (have oil in wells) next week.. bet that'll do the trick.

oh and i have a bottle of auto-rx in there right now marinating the varnish off the insides.. put that in after i failed emissions but dont think it will do anything for my overheating. would be nice though ;)
 

vance580

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SMAK

thats exactly my problem you have described my same symptoms

i also have a lean left side code but i had that even before this problem came about

want to wait for o2 sensors till i get a y-pipe

any other thoughts on solutions if my sypmtoms are the same as what smak described???
 

vance580

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shouldnt be air i flushed it about 3 months ago and check it pretty regularly cause i've been getting boil over with the recent temps here 85 and above

i even ran it a few time just idling in the driveway each time i replaced something without the radiator cap on so i could check for flow
 

smak

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to get the engine cooler i also have tried using the highest octane gas avaliable (sunoco 94) as it is more stanble and burns cooler (thus less suseptable to pre-ignition). but then timing is automatically advanced to take advantage right? which may make the problem worse, unless you pull the spout.. which may be a possible band-aid solution.

my problem persists without any codes at all.. just a few koeo sprouted that i can account for.

maybe replace your fuel filter? its a cheap and easy job.. and are you sure your injectors are spraying right? might need a bottle of cleaner in there or goto a shop for an injector service.

why are you waiting on o2's for the new y-pipe? i'd get them asap as thats probably the solution.
 

vance580

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the code for the o2 i've had a while so i know thats not the cause which is why i'm waiting had the code since i bought the car a year ago. i may be getting the ypipe soon as i'm seeing if i can get this fixed then the ac is next then if i cant get a motorcycle then the ypipes will be bought with what i was gonna be putting down on the motorcycle
 

smak

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dude get a bike.. i've been throwing around a late model yamaha fzr for the past few years and loving it.

couldent the o2 sensor be getting worse, causing the problem to in turn get worse? did it happen all of a sudden or slowly worse as weather warmed?

how are your plug wells? getting good spark?
 

SHO_Diehard

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smak said:
to get the engine cooler i also have tried using the highest octane gas avaliable (sunoco 94) as it is more stanble and burns cooler (thus less suseptable to pre-ignition).

Higher octane does not mean it burns cooler. The heat of combustion and the octane are two different properties. It is true though that the hotter the combustion chamber, the easier it is to get preignition.

As for the cooling problem, there was another thread going on this. One of the sensors tells the computer what the engine temp is and the computer uses that info to know when to turn on the fan. Might want to replace that sensor.
 

vance580

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That sensor your talking about is the one I replaced 3 times. That sensor still cant remember the name of it tells the ccrm to kick the fan on from what I read so I replaced the ccrm too.

I'm gonna try and get a bike but its gonna depend on financing and insurance.

I will try to pick up some new o2 sensor this weekend

yes my plug wells are starting to get oil in them again i had fixed it when i got it will some gasket maker but with the last month they are starting to leak again but I have had this problem with the overheating for about 6 months. will be ordering a valve cover gasket and wires in the next week also. Plugs I'll get at the local auto supplier.

I'll try all that and see if that helps some.

Any other ideas???
 

DigDeez

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smak said:
how are your plug wells? getting good spark?


Will drenched plug wells over time cause overheating and a jumping idle at startup? Not getting a good spark causes the car to do what?
 

vance580

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I was wondering is it possible that my fan may be going out but not dead yet like could it run slower then its supposed to or maybe something in the fan is not registering the signal right away telling it to kick on.
 

smak

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yo vance, you ever get this problem resolved?

i just did my plugwell gaskets, and put new wires/plugs in along with some valve cover and intake gaskets.

still have my overheating problem it seems, although when after i reset idle it took a couple trips around the block to realize i still had vaccum leaks (missed reconnecting intake 2 hoses)

i reset idle again just this afternoon and ran codes (came out clear) but i dont think it'll help much. will drive some tomorrow and report back but i'm not overly confidant that just reseting idle with no vaccum leak will be any diff than the few hundred clicks i ran days back with no vac leak and reset idle with vac leak.

it's getting annoying riding around with heat blasting through the vents just to keep the engine cool ;P

may be o2's afterall. or possibly stat.
 

vance580

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Still trying smak I've got new valve cover gaskets and wires on the way. Had a fuel pump go so havent messed with it much since it wasnt running. When I put the fuel pump in this past weekend I reflushed it and replaced the cap again this time I put one of those ones that has a little pressure release switch on it. Only driven a few miles runs a little cooler not much though but so far no boil over so I'll have to see during the week when I drive longer distances will keep you updated though. I'm getting close to a double-core radiator from midwest-sho.
 

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