Overactive ABS

[shelby_sho]

Anyone know where the article is describing how to replace the ABS ring (mentioned in a post above)? I have a cracked ring on my '94 and I was able to order the part cheap ($7 +$10 shipping). I'd love to have some advice on what's required to pull the axle and make the swap.

Thanks!

 

[rangerj]

A couple of comments:

The ABS sensor ring should be about centered on the sensor, that is it should rotate through the center of the pick-up sensor or "speed" sensor. If the teeth of the ring are nicked or chipped, or broken check you wheel bearings and hub. A bad wheel bearing "wabble" will cause the ring to hit the steering knuckle and damage teeth or cause the ring to crack.

The axel nut should be torqued with a torque wrench to the recommended torque setting. This is crucial for bearing pre-load, and the life of the bearing.

There are ohms tests for the ABS sensors and other diagnostic steps posted and I'll tell you where as soon as I figure out where Bizzy put them in this new format! Bizzy, where for art they?
rangerj

 

[shelby_sho]

Thanks rangerj. The problem is clear on my car. The teeth of the wheel and the sensor are in good shape (no rubbing), but there is about a 3mm separation in the indicator ring.

I've replaced the front struts on the car, but I've never had the axles out. I was just looking for some advice on how to get to the point that I can press the new indicator onto the axle.

 

[rangerj]

shelby sho,

To get at the axel, specifically the outer CV joint, do the following:

With the wheel on the ground loosen or remove the axel nut, then loosen the lug nuts, then put the vehicle up on jack stand(s) and remove the tire and brake assembly(caliper, disk) tie the caliper up out of the way. It may be necessary to tap on the end of the axel to drive the axel out of the hub. Put the axel nut on the end of the axel, flat side out, to protect the threads of the axel from the hammer,

Once the axel is loose remove the ball joint pinch bolt and nut

You can either pry down on the lower control arm/stabalizer bar with some sort of lever, or I use a small bottle jack placed on the joint of the stabelizer bar and the lower control arm, and the top of the jack at the lower edge of the inner fender well. I use wood to protect the surfaces from the jack

raise the jack and the ball joint is lowered out of the steering knuckle
the strut/steering knuckle can now beseparateed from the axel, push the axel inward and pull the strut outward and backwards ( you get a little more movement of the strut if you disconnect the tie rod end, but this is not necessary).

Now you can work with the axel in place, or remove it, to replace the pick up ring. If you remove the axel I would consider replacing the axel seal in the trans. Check the outer boot for cracks. (in **** check both boots)

Replace, DO NOT REUSE, the axel nut and the pinch bolt and pinch bolt nut. The nuts are lock type nuts and good for one use only. rangerj

 

[shelby_sho]

Well the ABS trigger wheel went in as described. The only difficult part was pressing the new ABS ring onto the axle. I ended up wedging a socket between the hub and the ring and using the hub nut to slowly press the wheel on. Took a little time but worked. The car now stops fine without triggering the ABS.

Total time ~3hr. Longer than it should have taken, but it's done.