oh boy...hot headaches!

[SonicRiot]

So...I did the TB coolant line bypass. The car is still running hot...at the "M" on the highway in this 35 degree weather. But now, it's worse. I poured the coolant back into the radiator, and now the car is heating up to the "N" or "O" if I am tooling around in traffic or idling for elongated periods of time.

Is there an air bleed somehwere? I couldn't find it.

So...what gives? I just did the ECT, the fan works fine, and the T-stat SHOULD be fine (I have to check again). The car SEEMS to run best at the "L" and performance degrades as it heats up (or at least it seems to, maybe b/c it is a little louder than usual if during warmup).

Waterpump? T-stat? Should I get a lower rated T-stat? Could this be another symptom of a PCM problem (in cohoots with that compressor ghost)? Wish I had a dyno so I could see if the car is ACTUALLY running better while cooler or if it is just my imagination.
It still runs like a beast while warm, but like I said...SEEMS... Perhaps my butt-dyno is way off and I am just carzy.

But is IS still getting hotter than I would like.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Do you have full flow of coolant?

You say the T-stat should be fine, have you replaced it... Did you install it correctly? Have you completely taken out the air bubbles?

 

[93EmeraldMTX]

its fine IMO, mine warms up to near N when idling etc after getting to full op temp driving it. no big deal as long as the fan kicks on and the needle makes its way back down.

i think i remember someone saying the N = about 220 degrees.

 

[93EmeraldMTX]

its fine IMO, mine warms up to near N when idling etc after getting to full op temp driving it. no big deal as long as the fan kicks on and the needle makes its way back down.

i think i remember someone saying the N = about 220 degrees.

 

[93EmeraldMTX]

its fine IMO, mine warms up to near N when idling etc after getting to full op temp driving it. no big deal as long as the fan kicks on and the needle makes its way back down.

i think i remember someone saying the N = about 220 degrees.

 

[yamahaSHO]

93EmeraldMTX:
its fine IMO, mine warms up to near N when idling etc after getting to full op temp driving it. no big deal as long as the fan kicks on and the needle makes its way back down.

i think i remember someone saying the N = about 220 degrees.

Mine does not come near the "N" since I have replaced my ETC... I now have an AutoMeter gauge to monitor it.

 

[AutoSHO]

Replace the gauge temp sender to eliminate that as a possibility. Should be less than 10 bucks and your dash gauge will read correctly.

As for running poorer when hot, it is a long shot - but my car was running very poorly when hot, but flying when cooler. My knock sensor had become oversensitive and it was backing the timing way out. Replaced the knock sensor, ran a lot better.

Check your fuel pressure as well.

 

[SonicRiot]

its fine IMO, mine warms up to near N when idling etc after getting to full op temp driving it. no big deal as long as the fan kicks on and the needle makes its way back down.

i think i remember someone saying the N = about 220 degrees.

Let's just post that one more time.

Heh heh. Just breakin' them on ya! I'm notorious for that but have recently discovered the edit button.


SO...

Didn't think of the Knock sensor. Could be...

And how do I get the air out? Is there a bleed somewhere? I couldn't find it.

And how do I know if the T-stat is bad? The previous owner claims he replaced it shortly before he sold it to me (could be bs b/c many of the things he claimed were... rant )

 

[bradman]

Air in your cooling system should make its way out on its own.

Does your car get too hot?-Could be the T-stat. Does your car get too cold?-Could be the T-stat. That's how you know. If I were you I'd change the T-stat just to make sure the correct one is in there.

 

[Zap]

For the cost of a Ford T-Stat (~$13) I would suggest replacing it. I had a failing T-Stat in my Sable and it kept getting worse and worse until it stuck shut! eek! That would be a LOT worse problem with the SHO, but luckily all the SHO stats I've had trouble with fail open and leave the engine too cold.

Question for AutoSHO, or those of you familiar with the knock sensor.. is there a good way to see if the timing is being set back or to test the thing? Or if it is that bad, will it throw a code? I've never thought about that being such an issue....

 

[SonicRiot]

I am not getting any codes...

I'll do the knock sensor too. Might as well do O2s while I'm in there. And I guess the T-stat. Didn't drive the car today, so I'll keep you posted.

Thanks

 

[billyshoe]

Reading the temp guage is like reading the National Enquirer.

 

[SonicRiot]

rofl

But, seriously...you guys... does this at all sound like a water pump problem?

 

[SHOZ123]

M is where it should run on the highway if you have the 192F t-stat.

The fan will come on at the O and turn off at the R in town.

<small>[ February 15, 2004, 08:47 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[AutoSHO]

SonicRiot:
rofl

But, seriously...you guys... does this at all sound like a water pump problem?

Nope.

 

[SonicRiot]

M is where it should run on the highway if you have the 192F t-stat.

I'll do a search now, but what T-stat should SHO's have? Stock?

Is there one I should get that will help my car run nicer?