NonFunctional Cruise Control

[Danz13]

I am currently trying to troubleshoot my cruise control. My car is a 93 ATX that has the recall done on the switch underneath the master cylinder. The plug harness that goes into the servo assembly had the right most (9 and 10) blown out, so I hardwired all the wires correctly onto the servo assembly, everything is plugged in, horn works and all, but no cruise control. What is my next step? I tried the procedure in the ford manual, checking the resistance and voltage on the different wires, but ended up going in a loop of instructions. What part am I not doing right?

 

[hawkeye18]

:TTIWWP:

No seriously, though, it would help to have a picture of the connector so we can see what you're working with here.

 

[Danz13]

Connector is gone, forgot it in the engine bay when testing, but it looked like a mini explosion on the last 2 connectors. I have the wires connected to the servo assembly now though just not using the plug

 

[javve]

The recall for the cruise switch underneath the master cylinder is due to the issue with brake fluid getting down in the switch and causing things to burn up.

The recall part you get is a wire harness that plugs into the bottom of this switch and has inline fuses in the wire loom. The other end plugs into your existing plug. I would suggest going to a junk yard and getting a new plug for the car end.

You will want to replace the switch under the master cylinder as well. The new style is sealed on top.

If you get the recall part and the new switch, replace the burnt plug, then your cruise should start working again.

 

[Danz13]

Ive already had the recall done. Do you have a part number for the switch and tips on installing it?

 

[javve]

Ive already had the recall done. Do you have a part number for the switch and tips on installing it?

I do not have the part number handy. I got mine from the Ford dealer and it wasn't that much different in price than a parts store.

The switch is a SCDS switch (SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH). One sure tell-tale sign the switch is bad is it will blow the fuse to the brake lights. That can also make it so the car will not shift out of park. The switch may not be shorting out but is just bad and causing the cruise to not work as well. I think I paid around $28 for the switch.

Getting it out is a pita. You'll know if it is the old style as you can shine a flashlight down there and see a ring on the top of it that basically holds the top part in. The newer style has a solid housing on top. A short wrench will fit in there. You will lose a little bit of brake fluid if it does need changed.

 

[Danz13]

Replaced the switch, still get nothing

 

[javve]

Sorry to hear that. Since this post I now have cruise not working. I think I'm going to check the fusable link in the wiring they installed on the recall for the fix.

With the new style switch under the master cylinder being sealed on the top, I may just remove that part of the harness since it's basically an inline connection and plug the old harness directly to the new switch. That is if it will fit. I forget if it goes from adapter to fusable link harness, to wiring harness or if the smaller plug is built into the fusable link harness.

Hope I didn't confuse you. If so I'll take a picture.