Noise maker elimination

[BlueSHO]

I used a Dremel to trim the narrow end of the outlet off, then the cap fits perfectly and has a lip to seal on.

I might have done that but I didn't want to grind on the stock piece.

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[Sgtmeatsauce1]

Other end you left open and just hanging there?

 

[BlueSHO]

Other end you left open and just hanging there?

If this question is for me no I didn't and that was just for what the noise maker looks like removed

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[Sgtmeatsauce1]

OK was not sure maybe it went no where and had no bearing but looked like had a vacuum line on it, thanks

 

[BlueSHO]

Just an update here. Went to full boost yesterday and heard a fluttering sound and power fell way off. Popped the hood and the cap had blown off the inlet tube. Found it laying on the engine belly pan. Noise maker is back on.

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[13blacksho]

Just an update here. Went to full boost yesterday and heard a fluttering sound and power fell way off. Popped the hood and the cap had blown off the inlet tube. Found it laying on the engine belly pan. Noise maker is back on.

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Same happened to me, so it cut the narrow end of the pipe off and scuffed up the wide opening with a Dremel sander and now it bites real nice!!!

 

[BlueSHO]

Might try to score a MKS inlet tube..

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[13blacksho]

Might try to score a MKS inlet tube..

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Go junk yard hunting... I called ford parts and they said $180!!!!!!

 

[BlueSHO]

Go junk yard hunting... I called ford parts and they said $180!!!!!!

Yeah my thoughts exactly..

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[Sgtmeatsauce1]

What does this look like? Any pics?

 

[mmh64]

MKS and Flex part.

 

[mmh64]

Was checking mine this morning. The cap still tight. No leaks there but found a boost leak on the underside at OEM rubber to hard plastic connection. These two peices rotate freely when I twist them in opposite directions. There is no way to tightened the plastic clamp that holds them together.

OEM failure. Looks like I will be shopping for a new part. Without the noise maker opening of course.

 

[BlueSHO]

Was checking mine this morning. The cap still tight. No leaks there but found a boost leak on the underside at OEM rubber to hard plastic connection. These two peices rotate freely when I twist them in opposite directions. There is no way to tightened the plastic clamp that holds them together.

OEM failure. Looks like I will be shopping for a new part. Without the noise maker opening of course.

Good find. Let us know if you find something

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[mmh64]

Good find. Let us know if you find something

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Did a quick fix for now. Replaced plastic clamp with hose clamp. I may still shop for something else but for now I'm running like this.

 

[SHOdded]

Ford & turbo hosiery ... Pfffftttt ...

 

[BlueSHO]

Did a quick fix for now. Replaced plastic clamp with hose clamp. I may still shop for something else but for now I'm running like this.

What about that upstream clamp type contraption thing?

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[mmh64]

What about that upstream clamp type contraption thing?

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That is a hose clamp with a clip on it to hold it in place. Wish they used that on all areas. No failure with that. I left it alone. The vulcanized plastic clamp was the failure. Split it in half and peeled it off.

 

[mmh64]

It's ovious to me this entire part is prone to failure. The other plastic clamp down lower I will keep an eye on. I can fix that leak if it happens. Eventually with high heat and prolonged exposure to CAC sludge the rubber parts will swell and degrade. I won't replace it with OEM. Needs to be all metal or similar plastic to OEM. Couplings of silicone. Aftermarket charge pipe is the only replacement I will consider other than building my own.

 

[Roger Batts]

I realize I'm reviving an old post. Coming from the ST scene, this part is called a sound symposer. On the Focus ST, it was a tube and electric valve that ran from the intake manifold to the firewall, but it served the same purpose: to pump engine noise into the passenger cabin area. I will definitely be looking to get the Interceptor/Lincoln tube to keep the lines clean under the hood.

 

[Wbaubl1]

Digging this back up. Has anyone figured something out that reliably works, besides the $150-$180 pile?