tery
Silvia survived the purge- summer car
i vote for pcm
pcm is my bet
pcm is my bet
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To troubleshoot, you will need a meter. If you don't have one, go get one, then continue to the next step.
Turn the ignition switch to RUN. Ground the FP TEST pin. This should energize the FP relay in the relay module, turning on the fuel pump in the tank.
If the pump is not running, proceed: Using meter, measure at pin 5 (PINK/BLACK) of the relay module. If measurement is battery voltage, go to the trunk and get access to the inertia switch. Measure both sides of the switch. If battery voltage is on both terminals, either there is a wiring fault to the pump or the pump is defective. If voltage is present on only one terminal, the switch is open. Either reset it or replace it if resetting it does not work.
If no voltage was measured at pin 5 earlier, ground and remove the jumper from the FP test pin several times while listening for any clicking from the relay module. If clicking is heard, either the relay module is defective or there is a wiring harness fault in the supply circuit to pin 12. If no clicking is heard, check the 60A fuse "COOLING FAN" in the engine compartment fuse box.
Just so I follow along correctly....the crank sensor might be implicated because:....or you have a crank sensor issue.
No, they are separate modules. In fact, the PCM is actually responsible for "telling" the CCRM what to do in some cases.So is the PCM and ccrm one in the same?
Behind the glove box. Push in the side tabs to drop the box down.Ok
I would also like to know where the PCM is so I can check it out also.