No start: Ignition cylinder/anti-theft problem?

[SHOroom stock 95]

Can you guys shed some light on this? Here's my prob:

When I turn the key to the "run" position, the fuel pump primes and the chime dings. Then when I turn it further to "start" to engage the starter, all power cuts out to the car. The remote keyless box in the trunk then starts clicking, and keeps clicking as long as the key is in the "off" position. If I turn the key to "start" or "ACC", the clicking stops. If I try to start the car again, nothing happens- all power is dead. I can disconnect the battery, re-connect it, and it starts the whole process over. I will have power until the key hits the "start" position, then just as the starter should engage, all electrical power cuts out.

It's as if the ignition cylinder isn't sending the proper signal to the anti-theft system which in turn cuts the power. Does that make sense? Any suggestions?

The ignition cylinder is getting worn out, as it would often lock up and not turn w/o several attempts. The black cover would also turn w/o the inner cylinder turning as well. Think the cylinder should be replaced? I'd appreciate any help, as the car is sitting out in my work parking lot now. BTW, it's a stock 95 ATX. Thanks.

corbin

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Sounds like you may have a short to ground somewhere. The RKE module doesn't perform any antitheft functions on a V6, but it may be the source of the short, or it might just be displaying the symptoms of a short. You can try unplugging the three connectors to the RKE module in the trunk to see if that fixes anything. If it doesn't, I'd suggest you start looking for shorts, first at the battery and starter, then in the steering column harness.

 

[musiccitysho]

From whar your saying about the clicking in the trunk and the loss of power when you go to start the car and the total power loss afterwards it sounds exactly like what my 93 was doing, It turned out that the positive battery cable terminal ( up where its crimped to the cable) was a little loose and unless I twisted it just right and tightened it down so it wouldnt shift it would lose power intermitantly with the same symptoms that you have, like a completely drained battery and then when I would loosen the terminals to charge it I had power again There is a writeup in shotime's homepage about how its common for the battery cables to go like that.
Hope this helps, and maybe worth a look,
Steve

 

[musiccitysho]

Also almost forgot my cylinder is loose like that too and hasnt provided any problems in the 30,000 miles Ive had the car for. I just assumed that maybe someone tried to force the ignition B$ I owned it but apparently thats just common wear on a sho too.

 

[SHOroom stock 95]

I will check battery and cables first, then look at unplugging the RKE. My positive cable was loose enough that I could wiggle it off by hand. Couldn't tighten it up to check, as all my tools were in my Sy. I expect that truck to break down, but not the SHO. Even though it's got 147k on it now, I'd feel comfortable driving the Taurus anywhere. Hope it's an easy fix, cause it's a long way from home and it's awfully cold out. I'll post back when I figure something out. Thanks for the responses.
Corbin

 

[projectSHO89]

You have either a bad battery cable or a very poor connection on one of them.

When the starter tries to pull 150 amps across a bad connection, it doesn't take much of a bad connection to drop almost all of the battery voltage.

Steve

 

[SHOroom stock 95]

Well, it ended up being a bad connection on the pos cable. Both the cable and bolt-on terminal were badly corroded. Cleaned them both up with sandpaper, and the car fired right up. Thanks for the tips.

Corbin

 

[musiccitysho]

Happy to hear, Free and easy... doesnt get any better! We Win! thumb