No go on the TURBO!! Help please.

[Redskull]

Both these problems sound like a fuseable link problem. Assuming it's all Gen I stuff, check all the fusable links under the air box. You'll have to take out the box AND the battery tray to get to it, but check all the wires coming off the + side of the solenoid.
An easy way to check them is aligator clip one side to the solenoid post, and then wrap a paper clip around the other lead and use it to puncture the insulation downsteam of the fuseable links.
Is everything else working? If a link blew out, it's a good bet your missing alot of other stuff that you don't even notice (lights, dash, etc).


Heres a stupid question: Are the wires hooked up to the correct side of the solenoid?

alan

don't forget the grounds for the CCRM and EEC (the little connector that's right off the negative battery post). Losing one of those four wires can add lots of resitence = reduced voltage = low pump speed

 

[Off Road SHO]

Tim, also remember that the starter juice has to go through the clutch safety interlock switch before it goes to the starter solenoid. That switch keeps you from cranking a car over while in gear without depressing the clutch pedal.

A fusible link leaves a telltale sign when it melts. The insulation will be blistered and bubbled up, maybe even darker in color.

Tom

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Tim,

Try running 12v directly to the fuel pump via the inertia switch. If that fires the pump and produces sufficient pressure, then you'd be looking at a CCRM (IRCM for Gen I's) issue, or a wiring issue between the CCRM and the fuel pump. If even that doesn't get the pump running, or can't build enough pressure then yeah you'll probably need to replace the pump.

You can test the starter ckt by checking for 12v at the small post (S-terminal) on the solenoid/relay with a meter while a friend tries to start the car normally. If there isn't 12v then you'd be looking at an interlock issue, wiring issue, or perhaps an ign switch issue.

Also, IIRC when we put Kirk's '91 together last year, we missed a positive connection that runs off the positive batty cable to a "Christmas tree" connector down by the side of the radiator below the filler neck, and we had similar problems.

Oh, and just to clear up some erroneous information posted earlier, the 12v supply for fuel pump runs to the inertia switch first and then to the fuel pump, NOT to the fuel pump first.

 

[TYSHO]

Oh, and just to clear up some erroneous information posted earlier, the 12v supply for fuel pump runs to the inertia switch first and then to the fuel pump, NOT to the fuel pump first.

Thanks for the heads up, I was wondering what you were talking about until I read the quote I posted on.

 

[TYSHO]

Tim, also remember that the starter juice has to go through the clutch safety interlock switch before it goes to the starter solenoid.

But when that is bad, his car wouldn't try to crank over. Of course, I just remembered that as I clicked to originally post that I forgot all about that switch because I bypass them on my MTX's asap.


Edit: If I were you, I'd just start checking connections to see if there is or not power and if things are routed correctly, before replacing any more parts.

 

[Redskull]

If i understand right about having 4.5v at the ignition switch circuit then there is almost definitly a bad ground connection somewhere. There is no 'resistance' to speak of in the starter circuit, so if the battery is putting out 12v and your only getting 4.5 at the solenoid wire, then something is making the voltage drop. If you are getting any voltage it means that the clutch switch and the ignition switch are okay. Old, rusted, cooroded, loose connections are the usual culprits. Can you post what the battery voltage is when the key is in 'off', 'run', and 'start'?

alan

 

[ManySHOs]

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/fueldoor/fueldoor.htm

That will help you with the fuel door. However, I had my rusty 91 tank down in about 25 minutes. I would not cut my car up if I planed on racing it.

Why not?

Here's another link to different instructions that I compiled and used:

http://www.ethzero.net/~ianf/FP/FP.html

Ian

 

[SHO--ripper]

" But, once after the winter I tried to start it and it would only crank for a long time"

Tim i'd say blame the car before blaming yourself. Replace the fuel pump (if it's a stock one you'll need to do it anyway).

 

[TYSHO]

He's not receiving power to the pump to even consider changing that out. However, that fuel has been sitting in there forever and no telling what has sludged up and where.

 

[Egg]

One thing to keep in mind is that i battery can measure at 12 and still not work, The thing to do would be to get it load tested to see, i had this problem during the winter, everything went smooth untill i went to bump the starter everything would shut down. Dont know if this is your problem or not but thought i should mention it.

 

[Toolman]

This is getting frustrating. Replaced the ignition lock (not the switch yet), new battery (needed one anyway, so I dont have to borrow), new gold plated terminals, still nothing. Again, I shorted across the solenoid, and it would crank, without the clutch depressed, and with the key in just the "ON" position. Is that suppossed to happen?

I am ready to ditch the whole thing and start over!

 

[Off Road SHO]

Again, I shorted across the solenoid, and it would crank, without the clutch depressed, and with the key in just the "ON" position. Is that suppossed to happen?

QUOTE]

Tim,

Yes that is what happens when you short across a starter solenoid. I think you will still have to depress the clutch safety switch though.

I'm having my own electrical problems, so I feel your pain.

Tom

 

[TYSHO]

When you cross the post on the soleniod, it bypasses everything before it. You can do it with the keys out of the ignition, but it wont start unless it's in the run position.

Have you bypassed your clutch switch?

 

[40BelowSummer]

Sorry I havent read the whole thread yet.

Start at the problem; hotwire or jump the fuel pump and go backwards from there according to a wiring diagram if it starts.

Good luck.

 

[TYSHO]

You need to check pin 24 (IIRC it's red) and see if it's receiving 12volts. I think this works for 90 and 91, as it does on the gen 2. If it's not receiving 12volts, then you need to check out your ignition switch and it's connections.

Is it possible you didn't yank (accidently) on any wires enough to pull the connector out where the pin cannot make contact?

 

[TYSHO]

After the fuel pump and ingnition switch replacement, if it still does not work, what could be the problem?

If the 91 has this, a transister that grounds the high/low FP relays via the ECU.

The relays need to be grounded to send the power through to the inertia switch, from my understanding. If the inertia switch is bad, it should be possible to wire the wires together and bypass it.

 

[Toolman]

When I get home tomorrow I am going to replace ignition switch, battery cables, and check some more voltages. HAVE TO GET THIS THING RUNNING!! I am going through some serious turbo SHO withdrawl.

 

[TYSHO]

You know, I was looking at some other wiring and it seems that there's a wire from the DIS module to the ICRM. Might want to check that out by swapping a cross over tube from another SHO.

 

[Toolman]

Yes, but even witht he DIS unplugged the fuel pump should prime and the car should crank.

I am REALLY thinking it comes down to my battery cables. It just makes sense. Every other part has been verified to be working. It is not that I mind changing the pump, but I dont think that is the problem, and I dont want to go through it for nothing.

 

[TYSHO]

Not to mention, you're not receiving power to the inertia switch, so your fuel pump is not even getting the chance to turn on.