New motor in and cranking over but will not start (video)

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93rev2sev

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What I meant when I made that edit was...

With a distributor, you can see the rotor about to pass the number 1 post on the cap when the #1 piston is just before TDC (Compression).

without a distributor you have to remove your valve covers, you can then see the cam lobes pointing straight up (valves closed) when your timing marks are lined up and the piston is at TDC (compression)

If you are sure that you timed the cams correctly, then you must have the plug wires crossed or a bad coilpack or other sensor.

92shoOff, you might be right. goto TDC, Put the heads on and set the timing at the cams...but what about the crank sensor? Does it care which TDC you are at? I dunno. Look at my sig to see where my strengths lie (windsor v8's).

Timing is the only thing that I can think of that would make it backfire like you talked about.

If it went Kaboom and backfired that means that the spark is way too late because the charge is being ignited during the exhaust stroke.

If it blew out your oilpan seals - thats very bad. I am actaully having trouble understanding how thats even possible. The only 2 paths to the oilpan from the combustion chamber that I know of is through valve stem seals(you would have to have blown these out completely) and through the oil passages on top of the head(I would think the valve cover gaskets would blow out b4 the oilpan)

or...through the incorrectly open intake valve, into the intake manifold and through the PCV system.

Imma listen to it crank again...

OK I just listened again. get a timing light on it.
A timing light will tell you if you have a bad coil. Try each wire. If the light flashes for each wire, your coilpack is probably fine.
It will also tell you if your cams are timed correctly. Hook it up to the #1 wire again. Somewhere just before TDC the light should flash.
Let us know what the timing light tells you.
 
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93rev2sev

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Can the cam sensor fire the plugs at top dead center:exhaust if it thinks the valves are closed?
 

92ShoOff

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shobote said:
..... sounds like the timing is around 180 degrees off if you blew the oil pan seals out. Just hope nothing else got damaged.

Well I mentioned in my other threads I currently have going and forgot to mention it in this one. When trying to crank the car over the very first time last week my dad sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body. With the two shots he sprayed, I got two knocking sounds and one bad backfired. We assume it was the ETHER that exploded, causing the backfire, causing the seals to blow.

So do you guys say the ether did the job on my seals, or do you still think it may have been bad timing still?? I just hope I didn't mess anything else up, especially the heads and piston rings. I don't wanna touch that stuff again! Lol.
 

92ShoOff

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I still gotta double check my spark plug wiring in the next few days to make sure everything is wired correctly. I do have my intake off not so I guess I can just pop the spark plug outta the #1 piston and watch the piston through the hole as I bring it up to TDC. So what should I see as far as the valves go on that #1 piston? Will the intake valves be open, would the exhaust valves be open, or will all 4 be opened/closed? And how will I know if I'm checking the compression or exhaust stroke on the #1 piston at TDC?

93rev2sev, I don't think the CPS knows if the engine is on the compression or exhaust stroke. All it knows as far as I can think is the whether the pistons are up or down. But think about this for a second.... the #1 piston (as well as the other 5 pistons) are in the same spot, going the same direction they were every time the #1 piston is brough to TDC. So the rotating assembly shouldn't have ANYTHING to do with whatever stroke the motor is on. When you slap on the heads with the cams, the cams then choose whether the intake valves are open or closed and same with the exhaust valves. And when the sprockets on the cams are aligned with the dot facing straight up, if you rotate the cams around one full revolution each lobe is doing the same thing it was doing when it was rotated 360 degrees around the other way. So when you initially set the cams, that's when you're determining what stroke each piston is on. Once you install the timing belt correctly and start rotating the crankshaft every OTHER revolution will give you the same results as far as which valves will be open and which valves will be shut. I may make a new thread just to verify this, but I do believe that there is no way the timing could be offd if the #1 piston was set at TDC and all timing marks were lined up.

I hear you on the windors though. I used to have a '93 Lightning. That little 351 had some balls to it. Could've had more, but you know...
 

92ShoOff

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You know what... I just did some thinking on this and you may be getting somewhere 93rev2sev. I recall prior to getting the heads on that when you line the crank sprocket dot up with the oil pump mark you can get two results. One will be the #1 at TDC, and if you rotate that sprocket 360 desgrees and line the crank sprocket up with the oil pump mark again the #1 piston ends up somewhere other than TDC. Rotate it in the same direction ONE MORE TIME and the #1 piston is back at TDC.

I may have rotated the crank shaft once or twice while heads were on before I lined up all of the index marks to finish it off. That said, if I didn't in fact check that my piston wasn't at TDC with my crank sprocket lining up with the oil pump mark, then this may be the problem. The #1 piston wouldn't be a TDC on the wrong stroke, it just wouldn't be at TDC at all if the crank sprocket wasn't lined up on the right revolution. Does all this make sense?? I'm trying to be as clear as possible here.

I still have the 3.0 block assembled so I'll go out there in the next couple of days and see where my #1 piston is at each time I line up the crank sprocket dot with the oil pump mark. I'll take some pics and show you guys what I come up with.

And I guess the easiest way for me to check that I do in fact have everything timed correctly is to remove the upper timing cover, rotate the crankshaft until the index marks on the cam sprockets, timing belt, and rear timing cover line up. The pop out the #1 spark plug and look down the hole to see if the #1 piston is in fact as TDC. Does anyone else agree that that sounds right, and sounds like the easiest way to check this?? Thanks again for all of your time and help with this you guys... and especially those that keep returning and trying to give me more info. I can't thank all of you enough!
 

NCTaurusSHO

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you pay for gas well come get it running for you this weekend...seriously.. we wanna go to maryland.... never been there....but I guaruntee you will be going by sunday. you want? freeeeee labor.

ashley
 

93rev2sev

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Southwest? At Detroit metro Airport has $50 1 way flights to Maryland. Just dunno how much a return flight would be. I thought about that when I was last looking (mostly idle dreaming) for cars on eBay. Fly to Maryland for $50, buy a car and drive it back to Detroit. Maryland is in the center of what they call a megalopolis - - Lotsa cars. :nut:
 
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