new engine in, won't start...

[Livingston]

I have my rebuilt engine installed, but can't get it going.

Here are a couple of clues: the OBD reader says 111 in the KOEO position, and a timing light is showing a really big advance. The advance is maybe 70 degrees, which could be a hint.

Then, if I get it going, I'll need to deal with the really big oil leak. After cranking for a while, oil is dripping down behind the A/C / motor mount casting. Has anyone had this problem? My suspicion is that the oil pump isn't sealed properly, but I haven't taken it apart yet to see.

Anyone have some ideas?

Thanks, Mark

 

[ohfosho]

well the timing being out that much probbably wouldnt allow the engine to get going. i was going to say make sure the rear valvecover grounding strap is attached good, but start with your timing issue and oil leak

 

[Livingston]

I agree that the timing being so far advanced will keep the engine from starting, but doesn't the computer decide when to fire the spark plugs based on the info it gets from the crankshaft position sensor and the cam position sensor? How do you change the timing? You were right that the ground strap was not attached, so that's fixed but with no better results.

On the problem of the oil leak, or really oil gusher, it's impossible to see where it's coming from, but it comes down in a steady stream. I'm thinking that there's an oil galley plug right behind the front motor mount, and that maybe the machine shop didn't put it back in when the were done with they block. Does anyone have an idea? Knowing would make my disassembly plans much easier.

Thanks.

 

[93superSHO]

There's a plug on the oil pump right there. It is angled up and right behind the lower rad. hose pipe. OR your dipstick tube is leaking. I bet it's your oil pump though.

 

[Livingston]

Shawn, thanks. The problem is definitely not the dipstick tube.

Do you know the easiest way to access the plug, given that the engine is in the car?

 

[93superSHO]

Well, it's gonna suck. You can get access to it once the AC comp. is removed. The front mount and alt. should not be in the way. The factory plug is a 8mm allen wrench. It is a VERY tight spot to get to. If you can't get to it that way then removal of the alt, front mount, and bracket will be needed(remember to support the engine) allowing you plenty of room. Good luck and patience will be needed.

 

[projectSHO89]

Throwing a few things out there:

Timing - The dampener has three separate index marks. Make certain you're using the correct one. Remove the SPOUT plug when checking timing. That forces the timing to default to 10 DBTDC.

Oil leak - I recall old discussions about one of the front bolts (can't remember which one) causing an oil leak near where you're describing if a short bolt is used instead of a long one. Maybe this will jog someone's memory who has the exact details.

Put identifying information in your signature. We can't even tell which engine you're working on, whether a 3.0 or a 3.2.

Steve

 

[Livingston]

Thanks Shawn and Steve.

About the damper - I thought it was notched so that it could only go in one way. Is the "spout connector" the anodized piece that slips over the end of the crankshaft between the seal and the damper?

Oil leak - it's a gusher, not a drip. But, based on what Shawn said, I will need to remove the hanger casting, alternator, and a/c etc. from the front motor mount to get to the oil plug.

1992 3.0 MTX bored to 3.2

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Oil leak - I recall old discussions about one of the front bolts (can't remember which one) causing an oil leak near where you're describing if a short bolt is used instead of a long one. Maybe this will jog someone's memory who has the exact details.

I posted a similar problem a long while back. Im not sure if it is the one your referring to.

It was related to the oil pump, and one of its mounting bolts.

Ill try to find the thread....

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

here you go.

Be sure to read the entire thread, particularly my last post

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=12537&highlight=oil+pump+leak

 

[Livingston]

Okay, it seems like you had the same problem I have. Did you need to replace the gasket, and, which one was it - the oil pump gasket?

Since it has been a while since I assembled the engine, I've forgotten whether one needs to drop the oil pan to remove the oil pump. If the pan needs to come out, the Y pipes need to come out = major PIA.

Thanks

1992 3.0 MTX bored to 3.2 and Quaife

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Yes, I replaced the oil pump to block gasket.

And yes, the oil pan must come off to remove the oil pump.

 

[Livingston]

Thanks for all your help. I hope I can find an oil pump gasket before the weekend.

-Mark

1992 3.0 MTX bored to 3.2 and Quaife

 

[Livingston]

aargh!

Does anyone know where I can get an oil pump to block gasket? Fast?

Thanks.

 

[Livingston]

new engine in, still won't start

This is a case of needing to read ProjectSHO89's answer carefully. There are 3 index marks, and my mini shop manual says to make sure that you use the one with the white paint mark. The only problem is that I don't clearly see any white paint. Is it the notch farthest clockwise as you face the engine?

I think I know what the SPOUT connector is now. And I think I've fixed the oil leak.

Thanks, Mark

1992 3.0 bored to 3.2, Quaifed

Throwing a few things out there:

Timing - The dampener has three separate index marks. Make certain you're using the correct one. Remove the SPOUT plug when checking timing. That forces the timing to default to 10 DBTDC.

Oil leak - I recall old discussions about one of the front bolts (can't remember which one) causing an oil leak near where you're describing if a short bolt is used instead of a long one. Maybe this will jog someone's memory who has the exact details.

Put identifying information in your signature. We can't even tell which engine you're working on, whether a 3.0 or a 3.2.

Steve

 

[40BelowSummer]

As far as timing; check this page/site out and see if its any help.
http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k3.htm

What did you do that may have fixed your oil leak?

EDIT: I guess a link would help

 

[Livingston]

re: the crank timing - there are 3 timing marks and someone wrote that it's the middle of the three to align with TDC on the plastic cover. Is this correct? It looks to me like the first is painted white, but it's pretty hard to tell.

I know that I can check the notch on the timing belt pulley and see that it's at 5 o'clock - unfortunately would need a helper to remove the damper bolt using my special breaker bar / starter method.

About the oil leak - I hadn't installed the long bolt, which is the one closest to the high pressure opening between the pump and the block. Even after installing the bolt the engine leaked. So I removed the oil pump, checked for straightness, and reinstalled. Big pain. The machined surface of oil pump was out by about .002", so I torqued the high pressure side first. I'll cross my fingers.

 

[40BelowSummer]