need serous stopping power

[somedude_001]

i'm currently running cobra calapers on 11.6 rotors with hawk HP+ pads and they fade with the quickness if I drive hard. I have had them billowing smoke a few times ripping up twisties. Well lets just say that gets old fast. I also need to get some bigger ruber to the ground. I'm thinking 255/50/16 does SHOnut offer rims that will accomidate that size? or should I move to 17" wheels so I could get some willwoods.

what brake options do I have with shonuts 16" rims? I know 13" cobras fit but i'm not a big fan of them because of their small swept area. honestly I don't think the 11.6 cobras are much more powerfull then my stock calapers (had motorcraft pads). + I warped the living crap out of my rotors and they only have 5K on them. do the corvett PBR calapers work? what has to be modified? what is above them the will fit under 16" or 17" wheels.

I am really trying to keep a light wheel on my car thats why I prefer the 16"

 

[shomesomesho]

I am running 16x7 Team Dynamics Pro Race 2's with 13" Cobras and they definitely clear the rim. The wheels themselves are very light at 15.x lbs. I got them from Shonut.



If you want less fade, you may need to use a bigger rotor (13"), pad with higher operating temperature, or add brake cooling.

I've been very happy with both the Axxis Ultimate and the Carbotech Panther Plus pads. In my experience, both have higher fade threshold than the HP+. They also have better bite at cold temperatures. They are dusty as all **** though.

With the bigger radius, the 13" rotors blow away the 11.6's in terms of stopping power. There is just no comparison.

 

[jedhead]

I would consider TCE's wilwood set up. You will have a huge selection of pad and will still fit inside the 16" wheels you have.

Bob

 

[SASHO91]

I am running 16x7 Team Dynamics Pro Race 2's with 13" Cobras and they definitely clear the rim. The wheels themselves are very light at 15.x lbs. I got them from Shonut.



If you want less fade, you may need to use a bigger rotor (13"), pad with higher operating temperature, or add brake cooling.

I've been very happy with both the Axxis Ultimate and the Carbotech Panther Plus pads. In my experience, both have higher fade threshold than the HP+. They also have better bite at cold temperatures. They are dusty as all **** though.

With the bigger radius, the 13" rotors blow away the 11.6's in terms of stopping power. There is just no comparison.

How do you like those falkens?
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=69019
:wave:

 

[somedude_001]

I would consider TCE's wilwood set up. You will have a huge selection of pad and will still fit inside the 16" wheels you have.

Bob

will those fit under the shonut 16"s do you have any info on what modifications have to be done to fit the willwoods on the 94/95 spindle?

 

[shomesomesho]

How do you like those falkens?
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=69019
:wave:

They are FREAKIN' AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!

I won't be autocrossing them until the season resumes in January, but so far the grip is phenomenal in the dry. Pretty good in the wet. Very stiff sidewalls makes the steering ULTRA-responsive. It is very easy to see why they have a reputation for being the #1 street-class autocross tire. Definitely give them a try.

They blow away the Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3's I used to run on the street.

 

[K-Dawg]

i'm currently running cobra calapers on 11.6 rotors with hawk HP+ pads and they fade with the quickness if I drive hard. I have had them billowing smoke a few times ripping up twisties. Well lets just say that gets old fast. I also need to get some bigger ruber to the ground. I'm thinking 255/50/16 does SHOnut offer rims that will accomidate that size? or should I move to 17" wheels so I could get some willwoods.

what brake options do I have with shonuts 16" rims? I know 13" cobras fit but i'm not a big fan of them because of their small swept area. honestly I don't think the 11.6 cobras are much more powerfull then my stock calapers (had motorcraft pads). + I warped the living crap out of my rotors and they only have 5K on them. do the corvett PBR calapers work? what has to be modified? what is above them the will fit under 16" or 17" wheels.

I am really trying to keep a light wheel on my car thats why I prefer the 16"

I think you need to learn how to use your brakes better. Next, I've heard several people say that there's a big difference between the PBRs on a 13" rotor and on a 11.6" rotor. Step up to the 13". I doubt that you'll be outdriving them.

It doesn't matter what size tires you chose if you buy crappy tires. Some of the fastest SHOs out there only run a 225 section width tire.

 

[PAracer]

I would say that the Wilwwod setup is the ultimate track brake package. They will require more maintenance to remain happy on the street. The Wilwwod calipers tend to creak and squeak when the get loaded up with brake dust. Also, since the calipers are not a floating design (there are no slider pins) any vibrations will be felt in the steering wheel.

All that being said, I will be upgrading to Todd's 12.2" system for the next track season.

The 12.2" rotors will fit under slicers as well as the vast majority of other 16 inch rims.

 

[SHO Dude]

This setup fits just fine under 17" wheels.





Yeah, yeah, the wheels look like ass, but they are not mine.

Whole setup including 13" slotted rotors, OE Cobra pads, stainless lines sells for $699. This setup will definately do a great job. For track use, I'd recommend a set of track pads. This adds $150. I've got this setup on my race car and coming down the hill into 10a at Road Atlanta, I go from 140mph to about 55mph in 250'.

 

[SinisterSHO]

I would say that the Wilwwod setup is the ultimate track brake package. They will require more maintenance to remain happy on the street. The Wilwwod calipers tend to creak and squeak when the get loaded up with brake dust. Also, since the calipers are not a floating design (there are no slider pins) any vibrations will be felt in the steering wheel.

All that being said, I will be upgrading to Todd's 12.2" system for the next track season.

The 12.2" rotors will fit under slicers as well as the vast majority of other 16 inch rims.

Before I got my Cobras, I would have agreed with you. But after I upgraded to the 13" Cobras, and raced behind my roomate at Gingerman, I would have a different opinion. With my Cobras on the stock pads, I was stopping just as well as he was with the TCE 12.2x.81 kit. The main difference was in the pads, his would last a lot longer, and he had more initial bite once they got hot, allowing him to go deeper.

However, not to knock the TCE kit at all, but he does now have tapered pads. This probably happened at the same Gingerman event. He noticed this at the Memphis Convention, when he put the pads in on opposite sides. The pads are not tapered vertically, but along the horizontal. When he spoke with Todd, he mentioned that he is either the first person to notice, or he is harder on the brakes than most. Todd mentioned the only real fix for this would be to rotate the pads after every other session or so, or use a six piston caliper. The pads tapered because the rear piston doesn't keep enough force to hold the pad even to the rotor.

So, again, I think the TCE kit is great. My roomates tapered pads could be an isolated issue. I think they are slightly lighter than the Cobras, and they are easier to exchange the pads out of. But, for the money, the Cobra kit with some good pads is going to be the best bang for your buck.

 

[RJ-92]

I need more brakes too. But i do like my PBRs and want to be able to use the slicers. If I get some 13 x 1.0 (or are they 1.1) and have them cut down to like 12.4 or 12.5 would they clear the slicers? I guess i am asking what is the largest rotor I can run with the PBRs under the slicers?

 

[SASHO91]

IIRC, the largest rotor you can run is a 12.2 (under slicers)

 

[shomesomesho]

But, for the money, the Cobra kit with some good pads is going to be the best bang for your buck.

I'll drink to that..

If you know where to look, you can get a set of new Cobra calipers, pair of new 13" rotors (re-drill them yourself), and your choice of premium pads all for about $350.

 

[strings1732]

I got my NEW PBR calipers(loaded with pads and brackets) for $179.50. The rotors I got for free and I'm also getting a set of slightly used track pads for $30. The only thing I need to buy now is banjo bolts. Even if I had of bought the rotors I still would have only paid, IIRC $22 each. That's well under $300 and it's a great setup!

 

[jedhead]

will those fit under the shonut 16"s do you have any info on what modifications have to be done to fit the willwoods on the 94/95 spindle?

Another plus on the TCE wilwood set up is that the setup is the lightest of all of the set ups out there.

I would contact Todd at http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/

Bob

 

[SeanMc]

After you add your 13s up front, go with the 11.6 rear and add some bias plugs. Matt W (loudsho92)'s car stop nicely with this setup.

 

[Jarrod]

Doesn't the 11.6" rear kit still use the stock caliper...?

 

[SeanMc]

Doesn't the 11.6" rear kit still use the stock caliper...?

Uses the Gen1 caliper, which is worlds better than the Gen2.

 

[strings1732]

Doesn't the 11.6" rear kit still use the stock caliper...?

yes, but that doesn't mean anything. The point of the 11.6 rear upgrade is to move the caliper out more. In doing this it creates more braking force by giving the stock caliper more leverage basically. For instance, take a small ratchet and try to loosen a bolt, then take a large breaker bar and loosen that same bolt(at the same torque). The larger bar will work in the same way as the larger rotor on the rear end. Basically the same amount of force will be found at the caliper, but it will create more stopping power with the larger rotor.

 

[HotRodKid]

I think you need to learn how to use your brakes better. Next, I've heard several people say that there's a big difference between the PBRs on a 13" rotor and on a 11.6" rotor. Step up to the 13". I doubt that you'll be outdriving them.

well part of the problem with teh car now, is that the front brakes blow sparks will brake-spooling the turbo during roll races

yes, i said that right, they blow SPARKS

so while the current brake setup might be fine for alex on a road course with better use of the brake .... roll races are still going to destroy them because theres only one way to apply the brakes and peg the gas while maintaining a 40 roll