Need help With IRCM module

[Force4]

I have been helping my kid try to figure out this intermittent no-start (cranks but doesn't fire) problem he has been having with his car. The problem is that the car goes for weeks without a problem and then it wont start. At first I thought it was ignition related with all of the threads on cps problems but I threw my timing light on it and found it had good spark. Further investigation showed us no fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Everytime we started to work on it the problem went away. Well today if finally failed to the point where we could get out the DVM and do some real troubleshooting and thank god it's not the fuel pump. First thing we did was connect the jumper wire between the eec test connector for the fuel relay and ground to energize the relay. We went to the inertia switch and found no voltage at the pink/black wire providing power to the inertia switch. We then took a fused 12 volt source wire and connected it to orange wire at the inertia switch running to the fuel pump and the pump ran. We then went back to the IRCM module and measured the voltage on pin 5 pink/Black of the module and had 0 volts. We then found that we can tap on the module and you can hear the relay energize and then the fuel pump primes as normal. Here is my guestions:
1. Can this module be purchased from ford or an auto parts store?
2. Has anyone ever taken this module apart an attempted to either clean the relay contacts for the fuel pump or replace the relay with a generic 30-amp foglamp type relay? The fuel pump appears to draw less than 10-amps so I figured a 30 amp relay may work But I am unsure if the coil resistance of a generic relay would place too much load on the eec computer driver circuit.
3. My son's car is a 93ATX. are the modules the same for all SHO's? Is MTX or ATX different?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[projectSHO89]

1. Yes and yes. Around $100 on up for a rebuilt.

2. Yes. The internal relays are not generally available for purchase. they cannot be cleaned (sealed). A generic 30A relay will work. Drawings have been posted before, but I don't have the link handy. Someone will likely add chime in with it.

3. There are differences. Look for a module with the same large letter on the label. Also, look for the identical (or designated alternate) suffix letters on the Ford part number.

Good luck.

Steve

 

[Force4]

I drilled out the rivets on unit to see whats inside. I decided if it was only relays I was going to use my own and wire it up. Upon opening it up it appeared that there are 4 relays and what seems to be transistor driver circuits for the relays. I decided not to chance damage to my computer by trying to wire my own relay directly to it. I called my local parts stores and they either did not carry the IRCM module or couldn't even figure out how to look it up. I called my local ford dealer and they had the unit in stock (what does that tell you) NEW not rebuilt for $142.00 I bought it and the kids car started right up. I know the $142.00 isn't cheap but its getting too cold ouside here in wisconsin this time of year to keep worrying if the car is going to start or not and I figured a tow is going to cost me almost as much. Thanks for the help.

 

[93_blk_blk_mtx]

!!!!

My 93 mtx is doing the exact same thing and will not turn the engine.

Could you please tell me the part number exactly as it appears on the ICRM module, not the catalog part number. Can you confirm with me that the actualy part number on the module is: FIDF=12B577-BA

Next question is, who is your Ford dealer and what is the phone number? I may need to purchase one myself. Thank you.

 

[Force4]

The part # of my old module is F1DF-12B577-AA but the dealer didn't think there was a difference between MTX and ATX for the same year. The new module has a service part # starting with F6## so it is probobly covers many different applications, years and models. My dealers name is "Russ Darrow Ford" in Milwaukee Wisconsin and their phone # is 414-453-9786. I am sure if you call a local ford dealer in your area they can get a module for you. The module I purchased had a date of May/2004 stamped on it so they appear to still be manufacturing this module.

 

[Force4]

I also found a second number under some tape on the module. It is 3c04bJ and the "J" is printed very large. I don't know if this number matters because the dealer parts guy did not ask for it.

 

[93_blk_blk_mtx]

Thanks Force4,

My dealer told me that May of 2004 was the last month they made these before discontinuing ICRM (aka PCM).

Thanks again!

 

[projectSHO89]

Thanks Force4,

ICRM (aka PCM).

Thanks again!

The IRCM (Integrated Relay Control Module) is NOT the same as the PCM (Powertrain Control Module).

Steve

 

[93_blk_blk_mtx]

Steve,

Are you sure? The ICRM is the relay box with the bracket mount right underneath the plastic lid with the illustrations.

Where is the PCM located and what does it look like???

Do you know where I can find illustrations?

 

[projectSHO89]

Steve,

Are you sure? Where is the PCM located and what does it look like???

Do you know where I can find illustrations?

Yes, I am sure.

The PCM is mounted in the firewall above the glovebox. It is the computer for the engine also called the ECA or the EEC-IV.

If you have it the service manual has illustrations. Otherwise, autozone link

Steve

 

[93_blk_blk_mtx]

Steve,

Which is responsible for the fuel pump relay?

PCM or ICRM

 

[Force4]

IRCM contains the relay. EEC controls the relay. If you ground the fuel pin in the EEC test connector you are forcing the IRCM to energize the Fuel pump relay bypassing the EEC. With the EEC test pin grounded you should have power ~12volts on the pink/black stripe wire (Pin 5 of the IRCM Module). If you have no voltage with the test pin grounded you either have a bad IRCM module or you have no power going into the IRCM module. If you have ~12 volts at pin 5 you have a possible broken wire (pink/black stripe) running back to the inertia switch, a bad inertia switch, or a defective fuel pump. You are going to need a test light or a digital multi meter to figure this out.

 

[jbserra]

Do you make house calls? My Taurus is dead in my driveway in Menomonee Falls with similar symptoms.

I replaced the fuel pump (naively), and the IRCM. Still won't start. The last shop I had it at said the main computer needed replacing, but then took a week+ to tell me he was having a hard time getting a hold of his supplier. I'm going to start from scratch probably this weekend and start with jumpering the fuel pump, etc. Thanks for the info, Steve, on the interaction of the ECC and IRCM. This will help me determine if the computer is really the problem at this point.

 

[93_blk_blk_mtx]

Any luck with your SHO...did you find out if the computer was at fault?

Mine still will not start, even though I installed a brand new IRCM.

humm....

 

[jbserra]

I also tried a different IRCM. No luck. It's too darn cold out to trouble shoot. I may buy a cheap car to make it through spring...

 

[Rockledge]

Force4 was able to isolate the fuel circuit as the problem - and correct it -only after some fairly thorough testing. The ignition system was ruled out as a culprit, and he was able to hone in on the fuel pump circuit as the cause.

Toward that end, have the others tried pulling the codes from the computer? IMO, that really should be part of the overall diagnostic process:

http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html

 

[Force4]

Do you guy's have spark? Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail (schraeder valve)? checking your codes is a good idea. I was lucky with my find.

 

[93_blk_blk_mtx]

IRCM_still_nothing_new_codes?

I don't know how to check if I have spark, likewise with the fuel pressure?

After installing a brand new IRCM, my SHO still will not start? I pulled 2 more codes: they are #116 & #114.

I don't know what these codes mean.....what do you say?

 

[Force4]

The easiest way to see if you have spark is to connect a timing light to one of your plugs while you crank the engine. If the timing light flashes while you are cranking chances are you have spark. If you dont have access to a timing light you can buy an extra spark plug or steal one from your lawn mower or snow blower. Remove one of you plug wires from the valve cover and connect it to your extra plug. With the metal housing of the spark plug held firmly against engine metal have someone crank the engine while you observe the electrode end of Spark Plug to see if you are getting spark. You may want to hold the spark plug with gloves or some other type of insulated material to avoid the chances of a surprise shock if the plug is not properly grounded to the engine. You can also use a jumper cable by clamping one end or either the red or black wire to the spark plug housing and the other end of the same wire to the negative battery terminal this way you don't need to hold the plug at all while your assistant cranks the engine. Also check your Tach and Check engine light while cranking the engine. The check engine lamp should NOT be lit while cranking and my tach shows around 400~500 while cranking. If the check engine light is lit while cranking it my signify an ignition problem with the car.

Also check to see when the key is first turned to the on position if you can hear the fuel pump located in the tank run for about 1-second. Look on top of you engine for the schraeder valve (Looks like a tire valve mounted on the fuel rail). Turn the key on and press the valve in to see if you have fuel pressure. I had a dribble when my car would not start and I think it needs around 40 psi to be functioning correctly. Also located by the passenger side firewall is the EEC test connector. One of the pins in this connector can be wired to ground and this should give you a constant voltage out (~12v) of the IRCM on pin 5 pink/black wire running back to the inertia switch in the trunk. You will hear a relay click in the IRCM module click when you ground EEC test pin. You may need to invest in a digital multi-meter if you want to get reallly involved in a electrical problem . As rockledge stated I spent a lot of hours narrowing this problem down and I was fortunate to have some of the needed test equipment at my disposal.


PS - jbserra I live in sussex and have to help my kid replace his radiator tomorrow due to a leak between the seam at the tank and the core. If you would like you can borrow my inductive timing light to try to narrow down your starting problem just let me know.

 

[Force4]

Both of you guys should look at the link that Rockledge has in his message. Its got a ton of good information that show the correct pin to short on the EEC connector for the fuel pump test and a bunch of other stuff.