Need help With IRCM module

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

jbserra

SHO Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2002
Messages
247
Reaction score
34
Location
Greenfield, WI
Well, we're back to the IRCM. The new old ones I got from someone on the forum do not seem to be working at all. I put my old one in, and it at least clicks when you jumper the fuel pump. I hot wired the pump, and the car started. SO, back to finding a good IRCM. We are trying to combine 2 dead ones into one good one.

Thanks all!
 

Force4

Guest
Joined
May 6, 2004
Messages
531
Reaction score
1
Location
Wisconsin
Call around to your Ford Dealer locally and buy a new one. I bought mine 2 weeks ago at Russ Darrow Ford (Old best Ford) on hwy 100, call them and see if they have another in stock. I know $142.00 isn't cheap but how much time do you want to spend outside in this kind of weather swapping unknown used parts. How and where did you hot wire your fuel pump? This may help you solve your problem. You need to measure the voltage at pin 5 of the IRCM module with the EEC fuel test pin grounded. If you have 12 volts at this point the IRCM module is not the problem and you need to focus on the wiring which runs back to the inertia switch and the inertia switch itself as possible causes. If hot wiring your fuel pump got the car started you have already narrowed it down to only a couple of possible items.
 

jbserra

SHO Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2002
Messages
247
Reaction score
34
Location
Greenfield, WI
I hot wired the fuel pump at the inertia switch with jumper cables. Pump ran, car turned over.

With the key in the on position, and the fuel pump ECC connector to ground, I hear the click of the relay, but don't get voltage out on Pink/black. So, either power is not getting to the hot side, the relay is internally corroded, or the output connection to the connector is bad. Like I said, if I hotwire the pump at this point, the car starts.

~~~~~~~~~~~
UPDATE:

1) The IRCMs that I bought were NOT the correct part number. They didn't do anything when I plugged them in.

2) The original IRCM clicked, but the pump didn't go on. The Napa guy told me that I could still use it as a core even if I drilled the rivits, so I did. Inside, there was a trace that burnt. I soldered the trace, and THE CAR RUNS!! Maybe it burnt because of a bad fuel pump? Don't know, but I replaced the pump previously, so hopefully I'm good. I will keep the car within 20 miles for a while to monitor my "fix".

So, here's the summary:
1) Car died - couldn't hear fuel pump priming.
2) replaced fuel pump and filter, car still wouldn't start
3) hotwired the pump, heard it run, car starts.
4) Ran the fuel pump troubleshooting, determined it to be the IRCM
5) Ordered an IRCM, received 2, tried both, didn't start
6) Left the "new" IRCM in the car. Dragged it up the hill to a local shop, shop says it's the main computer.
7) Check back with the shop a week later, and find no work had been done to my car. Tell him I'm coming to get it because he sucks. He tells me he will leave my car so I can tow it out. Show up, the car is facing a main road (instead of toward the parking lot), and the shop is closed. Had to push the car over the curb, and onto the main road, down a hill, to get to a place where I can get the straps hooked up to drag it home.
8) Decide to start from scratch. With 3-heads working on it, we rerun the fuel pump troubleshooting, and AGAIN it points to the IRCM (not the main computer). We put the original IRCM back in, and the relay clicks, but no power out. Hot wire the pump, and the car starts. Now I'm back to step #4.
9) Check around for new IRCMs. Expensive, hard to find, blah blah blah. I find out that the part number of my new old IRCMs differs from my original. The light bulb goes on. (The original box had a black pad stuck to the top, so I couldn't read the part number, so I assumed...yeah...I know...)
10) Napa says I can drill my rivets on the IRCM and still get core $$, so away I go!
11) Open box reveals a trace that is broken. Solder it up, and the car starts.

Thanks to all that helped. The car just got a fresh tank of gas and car wash. Whew. So nice to have Red Bull back...
 

Force4

Guest
Joined
May 6, 2004
Messages
531
Reaction score
1
Location
Wisconsin
Do you know which trace burnt up on your module? It may be a pinched or damaged wire running to your fuel pump that caused your board to burn. It could also be whoever installed the fuel pump shorted the pink/black wire in the process causing the IRCM to self-destruct. Either way good luck on your find.
 

jbserra

SHO Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2002
Messages
247
Reaction score
34
Location
Greenfield, WI
Well, the IRCM went before the fuel pump was replaced, so I'm guessing it's unrelated to it's installation, but it could be due to the pump itself going bad, or a wire going bad to it. true...

Any guess on the amperage that the fuel pump draws. I could put a fuse inline on the pink/black wire as a safety measure...
 
Back
Top