Need help!! MTX won't go in gear!

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92ShoOff

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Need help!! MTX won't go in gear! ATTN: ShoNut Performance

Hey everyone, I hope you all are doing MUCH better than me. Haha. I think I may have come across any long-term SHO owner's dreaded problem... bad transmission. I've only owned my SHO for almost 8 months now, and it now has 133k on the drivetrain. So here's what happened tonight along with past situations with the vehicle.

So me friends and I decided to make a 30-minute drive up into town where all the "cool" ricers hang out and show them what's up by giving them a run in a 4-door sedan. So I pull into the parking lot with all the other hooblums and rev my engine as I drive by. Now I know my car only runs 15.1's at the track, but I also know I can handle these lame-*****. So they yell for me to turn around and the big-shot of the crew (by bigshot, I mean the one with the fastest car there) asks me if I want to run him. He had one of those early/mid 90s Integras that had quite a bit of work done to it. He sounded very confident, so I was worried. Anyway, when go from a 10 mph roll and I have over a car-length on him until I miss 3rd gear (bad subframe bushings). He catches up beside me and I get into 3rd just as he slowly starts passing me. So I start pulling slightly on him again but he's already in front of me because I missed a shift. Would've had him otherwise.

So we run again from a 70 mph roll... I had him pretty well on that one. We both come to a red light a little further down the road and he pulls up beside me and asks if I want to run him again. Of course. We both revved to about 3k and both spun the sh*t out of firsth gear. Now I very well KNOW this is not good for a stock tranny, without a Quaife especially. But I didn't want to lose. So this time I roasted him up to 3rd gear again. Guess what... it wouldn't go into 3rd this time. I slowed down, slammed it back in 2nd gear and broke the plastic piece of the center console that is connected to the shifter boot. Tried up-shifting back into 3rd and after several attempts it finally grinded into 3rd. Now I slow down to make a U-turn with him and can't get it in 1st gear to merge back out into traffic. Had to really force it hard to get into gear and had problems getting into 2nd after that, followed by grinding back into 3rd.

We pull back into the parking lot and the guy I raced told me he saw sparks come out from underneath my car one of the times he was behind me while we were racing. That can't be good. So I was figuring maybe I needed to try adjusting my clutch since I rode the crap out of it trying not to spin too ******* that one run from the light. See.. I've never been too sure about that clutch adjustment. I've tried adjusting it several times and never heard a click come out of the clutch pedal on slowly pushing it down. So I started thinking maybe the clutch adjustment cable is bad and I just need to fix it and my problems would be solved. Well regardless I tried adjusting in the parking lot and it did nothing. Had a **** of a time getting it to go in 1st gear. So while driving back home I noticed it went into 4th and 5th gear pretty well, just not 1st, 2nd, nor 3rd. And it keeps grinding EVERY time I try shifting into 3rd. I also noticed that while at idle the car is vibrating a little bit. Like something is running rough. But not one time tonight did the CE light come on.. so I'm not so sure it's the engine. I got home and can't get into reverse either... just kept grinding when I tried. I had to shut the car off, put it in reverse, the start it up and back it up.

So a little history on the car: When I first got it the transmission fluid was leaking slightly, so I took it to Jiffy **** and had them pour in some Stop Leak tranny fluid I had. They told me afterwards that it WAS in need of fluid. A few days later the leak seemed to stop so I hadn't had the fluid level checked on it since around December.. which was nearly 12k miles ago. I'm not sure if it possibly just might need more fluid now... or if it had run low again since then and that may have caused the damage that was done tonight. I had also noticed that the car has always kinda "shuttered" when letting the clutch off to engage it into gear. Idle never dropped or anything, just wasn't smooth when engaging into gear when I almost completed disengaged the clutch. Basically, that only happened when the clutch pedal was about 80% or so released.

So what does this sound like to you guys?? I had my friend rev my engine up to 3k after we got it to my house and the motor didn't move out of place or anything... so it can't be a bad motor mount. Could it be a bad transmission mount??? I'm just hoping I did destroy the gears and/or tranny, nor blew the clutch. I defintely can't afford the cost of having the engine and tranny dropped to fix anything like that. The labor and parts would be well over $1k if it's just simply the clutch. Could it be that I need to simply fix my clutch adjustment simply and get it adjusted. The pedal feels WAY different now. And I DO have a rod shifter, by the way. Not a cable shifter. Anything else you guys think I could have done??? Man I just hate the fact that I'm so abusive to my cars. Every car I've had has been a fast car (much faster than the SHO) and I just can't help but mash that throttle and whoop on people. I REALLY need to get outta that habit! Thanks for any help you can give me guys!! Please tell me I don't need a new tranny (and actually mean it!) :bonk:
 

masho95

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You don't need a new tranny. But my crystal ball says a new clutch is in your future. Sounds like a broken pressure plate strap. It runs rough all the time at idle now? You hear any noises? Does it make any noises as you rev it up?
 

MilTownSHO

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SHO--ripper said:
I second that eric. Your PP is probably shot. It wouldn't hurt to check you tranny fluid.

I third that...check your tranny fluid first, if you got REAL lucky you might just be low and not have done any damage. But my money is also on a bent or broken strap.

I just got my 7,000 mile clutch replaced today because I could not shift gears at high rpms, it would block me for a moment. I was also having difficulty just getting it into gear when stopped. Turned out to be a bent PP strap! We also checked the blocking rings and everything appeared ok. If you pull your trans out, if I were you I would check those also especially after hearing how you drive.

Mine also was vibrating badly at idle and you could hear it scrap through the shifter! :eek:
 

92ShoOff

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Yes my car runs kinda rough at idle now. My RPMs aren't fluctuating I don't think... is just feels like the 383 stroker motor in my El Camino.

I don't think there were any noises at idle nor when revving it up. I'm about to go out there in a little bit and start looking around and I'll see if it's making any noise or not.

Regardless of what it is I don't think I'm going to do the work myself. I only have weekends to do the work and I know my dad isn't going to what to mess with the clutch on that car or anything. But the problem with checking the fluid level in the tranny is that I don't have that special 3/8" tool with a square head to remove the fill plug. Last time I tried I couldn't get a 3/8" ratchet extension to do it because the little ball that locks the socket to the extension wouldn't let me get the extension inside of the plug enough to rotate it out.

I know ShoTimes has a list of parts to replace when replacing your clutch, and I was just wondering if you guys could personally give me a list of things I'll need. The link to the list is: http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...le=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=98

I just want to make sure I have absolutely everything I need. And I'm imagining this is all stuff that I need to get from the dealer, correct?. No aftermarket clutch kits that come WITH this stuff that I need?

So lastly, now I need a pressure plate and new clutch kit, right? Pardon my ignorance here please... I'm completely unfamiliar with front-wheel-drives AND manual trannies. That said, I have no idea what blocking rings are, nor where on/in the transmission they are located. Is that a simple replacement? Geez.. I so truly do NOT want to have to pay to have that tranny opened up! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

So for my aggressive driving, exactly which clutch would you recommend for me? I need to order it from somewhere that also won't take over a week to receive. I don't want a really stiff pedal either... just a good clutch that can handle the SHO engine with someone who drives it aggressively every now and then.

Thanks again for your help guys!!!!! You have NO idea how much I appreciate it!!

Take care,
Andrew
 

masho95

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A 3/8 ratchet will work just fine on taking the drain plug out. But what I've found best to take it out is a 1/2" wrench with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter on the end of it. It'll give you just the right length to get it in there. As for clutch kits do a search for AutoZone clutch kit. IIRC it comes with a new OEM clutch disc and TOB. And you may want to consider buying a HD PP and ceramic TOB from SHONut Performance @ www.shonutperformance.com

For a list of parts all you should need is a new clutch disc, TOB, pressure plate (PP), and a resurfaced flywheel.

As for all the grinding that went on in your tranny after you had the problem you may want to consider have the tranny opened and replacing the blocking rings, but if you've kept the grinding to a minimum you may get away with just a new clutch.
 

92ShoOff

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ATTN: ShoNut Performance!

Okay so with the front end of the SHO up on jack-stands I had my dad run through first and second gear. It definitely seemed like the engine was rocking more than it should. Could this be because of the pressure plate issue I'm more than likely having? The motor mounts LOOKED fine, but **** if I know how to tell if they're shot or not. At one point, my dad grabbed the upper intake and rocked it with a lot of force with his hands and after a few rocks we heard some kind of thump or something come from underneath the car. But he had to already started rocking it a few times before it would make the noise. We tried again while I was underneath the subframe and he coudln't get it to make the noise.

I'm sure the clutch disc that's in my car right now is probably junk regardless, so my plans are to order a 9-puck Fibertuff clutch disc, HD pressure plate, ceramic throw-out bearing, aluminum sub-frame bushings, (2) V6 subframe recall kits (I'm assuming this hasn't been done), leak-fixing wear parts kit (I have a leak between the tranny and engine), front crank seal (also a leak at front of engine), and possibly reinforced front and rear motor mounts... if you guys decide that the rocking of my engine is not caused by the pressure plate issue.

Anything else I'm going to need?? I plan on getting EVERYTHING from ShoNut Performance. Anyone know if the pressure plate comes with the bolts, or do I have to get those separately? ANYTHING ELSE AT ALL to do the job? I'm also going to have the flywheel re-surfaced for the process, and if it doesn't cost too much I'll have them pop open my tranny and determine whether or not I'm going to need new blocking rings.

And what's this about "Teflon impregnated, alumina ceramic coated aluminum TOB release shaft bushing upgrade (must also buy stock bushings or a clutch wear parts kit that includes them)". Is this something I need or should get?? I don't even know what the heck this is.

If you guys could finish this off for me I can order everything tonight and hopefully have everything I need by the end of the week. Hopefully the guy that runs ShoNut comes across this and can also help steer me in the right direction! And I'm also assuming that whatever shop I take the car to they can cut off the Y-pipe ****** bolts and just replace them with whatever fits, correct? I don't necessarily need a new set of bolts... the shop should have some that will work fine, right?????

Man oh man... without motor mounts my bill is already $714.43! I still need to pay for labor!! I'm so f*cked. Haha. This SHO is just killing me!

Thanks again!,
Andrew
 
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