My SHO Sounds Like its got a Blower After Front 60k

[seraphiem]

Ok all,

I did a front 60k on my MTX today and lo and behold when I fired it up I have a VERY LOUD blower like whine from the belt area. Really annoying as the engine revs down.

I know its the T-belt. Unsure if I over-tightened it or not.

So my question is. Is it normal for a BRAND NEW t-belt to whine while its breaking in?

One other question.

Will it hurt to run with a tight t-belt as I most likely have? I mean how quick before I destroy my bearings and/or shred the belt if I leave this as is?

I mean this thing is freaking loud!

 

[SHOtime2511]

what brand timing belt did you get?
ive never had this problem with timing belts,but acc. are another story

 

[RStalveyARFF]

Did you add your own tension or allow the spring to set it? It definitely sounds like an over tightened T-belt.

 

[seraphiem]

Its a gates belt.

I tightened it down pretty good. Much more then the spring tension by itself.

Never had this problem on my ATX even with re-setting the eccentric of the hydraulic tensioner.

Oh well. Gotta pull it apart at some point again.

 

[seraphiem]

Hey,

Can anyone tell me how much stuff I gotta pull off to use the tensioner window for the T-belt?


...Just curious...Trying to budget my time/schedule.

Thanks All

 

[shopartsnw]

If you follow the instructions in in the manuals the SHOtimes.com instructions, you can adjust the tension pretty easy. THere is a small access cover in the lower timing cover that you can use with the belts on. I have never had to do it, but you can probably do it all with just the wheel and fender liner removed (disconnect the battery for safety also).

If you loosen the tensioner slightly, the tensioner should tension the belt correctly. There is a white and a yellow mark on the harmonic balancer that you use to tell when to tighten the tensioner. I hate to say it, but the instrucitons are the key.

Good news is you should not have to remove much to retension it. YOu definitely do not want to tun with too much tension, as it will wear the main bearings, and could damage the cams or cam bearings over a longer period of time.

If the whine does not go away with correct tension, the timing belt tensioner bearing is shot. At least you can still get them aftermarket. One of the few parts still readily available.

- Mike

 

[seraphiem]

Much thanks.

New tensioner already just put in. So I hope thats not it.

 

[WeGoSHOp]

If you follow the instructions in in the manuals the SHOtimes.com instructions,
- Mike

I cannot find these instructions on SHOtimes that you speak of. Do you know of the exact URL?

 

[thecrew2999]

just tell people you got a supercharger on it, haha

 

[shopartsnw]

I also could not find the detail on SHOtimes, so here are the installation instructions from the CD.


1. CAUTION: Before installing timing belt, inspect it for cracks, wear or other damage. Replace if damaged. Do not allow timing belt to come in contact with gasoline, oil, water, coolant or steam. Do not twist, or turn belt inside out.

Check the belt to make sure the following has been done.

a. Always store timing belt in a cool dark place.

b. Always keep belt in protective packaging until ready for use.

c. Never hit or squeeze belt with hammer or screwdriver.

Make sure engine is at top dead center (TDC) on No. 1 cylinder. Check that camshaft sprocket index marks line up with index marks on upper inner timing belt cover and that crankshaft sprocket (6306) aligns with index mark on oil pump (6600).

2. NOTE: The timing belt has three yellow lines. Each line aligns with the index marks shown.

Install timing belt on crankshaft sprocket and route to camshaft sprockets. Lettering on timing belt "KOA" should be readable from rear of engine (top of lettering to front of engine). Also make sure that the yellow lines are aligned with the index marks on all the sprockets.



3. Release timing belt tensioner idler pulley locknut and leave nut loose.

4. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

5. Install center outer timing belt cover. Make sure crankshaft position sensor wiring and grommet are installed and routed properly. Tighten retaining bolts to 7-11 N-m (62-97 lb-in).

6. Install lower outer timing belt cover. Tighten retaining bolts to 7-11 N-m (62-97 lb-in).

7. Install crankshaft vibration damper and pulley using Crankshaft Seal Installer/Cover Aligner T88T-6701-A with forcing screw from Vibration Damper and Seal Installer T82L-6316-A or equivalent.

8. Rotate crankshaft two revolutions clockwise until the yellow index mark on crankshaft vibration damper and pulley aligns with 0 degree index mark on lower outer timing belt cover.



9. Remove plastic door in the lower outer timing belt cover. Tighten timing belt tensioner idler pulley lock nut to 33-51 N-m (24-38 lb-ft) and install plastic door.

10. Rotate crankshaft 60 degrees more in the clockwise direction until the white index mark on the crankshaft vibration damper and pulley aligns with 0 degree index mark on lower outer timing belt cover.



11. Lower vehicle.

12. Make sure index marks on camshaft sprockets align with index marks on upper inner timing belt cover.

13. Route crankshaft position sensor wiring and connect with fuel charging wiring (9D930).

14. Install upper outer timing belt cover. Tighten retaining bolts to 7-11 N-m (62-97 lb-in).

15. Install water pump pulley (8509). Tighten retaining nut to 16-23 N-m (12-17 lb-ft).

16. Install generator/A/C drive belt tensioner pulley and bracket assembly. Tighten bolts to 15-23 N-m (11-17 lb-ft).

17. Install water pump/power steering (4 rib) drive belt. Using Rotunda Offset Belt Tension Gauge 021-0028A or equivalent, set drive belt tension. Tighten drive belt tensioner pulley retaining nut to 34-50 N-m (25-36 lb-ft).

a. New belt: 690-880 N (154-198 lb)

b. Used belt: 500-700 N (112-157 lb)

18. Install generator/A/C (6 rib) drive belt. Using Rotunda Offset Belt Tension Gauge 021-0028A or equivalent, set drive belt tension. Tighten drive belt tensioner pulley nut to 34-50 N-m (25-36 lb-ft).

a. New belt: 980-1180 N (220-265 lb)

b. Used belt: 660-850 N (148-192 lb)

19. Install engine air inlet connector. Tighten bolts to 15-23 N-m (11-17 lb-ft). Tighten hose clamps securely.

20. Install front engine support damper.

21. Install battery.

22. Connect battery cables.

23. Raise vehicle.

24. Install front fender splash shield.

25. Install RH front tire and wheel assembly. Tighten lug nuts to 115-142 N-m (85-105 lb-ft).

26. Lower vehicle.

 

[seraphiem]

Thanks all,

Tried the adjustment and first try resulted in no change. Second try resulted in the belt jumping time!

Pulled it back apart again and more or less got it right. I can still hear the belt when the car is under load but its defineately quieter then it was before. I'm planing on driving it for a bit too see if it goes away as the belt wears in.

Now I'm on a quest to find the assecory belt tensioners as there getting noisy.

Thanks all again!

 

[290]

This happened to me with a gates belt as well. I couldnt get the whine to go away so i tightened it a little past what the spring would rest at. It still whined for a while but its quite now.

 

[somedude_001]

Do not allow timing belt to come in contact with gasoline, oil, water, coolant or steam. Do not twist, or turn belt inside out.

oh god! I blew my rear crank seal and ran about 10qts of engien oil over my belt... meh it still works, but i'm still suprised it didn't slip.

 

[Kiwibird83]

Ford has a TSB out on this, and it happend to me as well. Belt tension is the culprit in most cases, make sure you set it to spec, ford also says it takes about 3-4k miles for the belt to break in and let the sound subside, i would recomend driving on it for 3k then re-tension it and it should go away.

 

[sdpatt]

A post reprint from this Forum:

Yes, you can reset the tension of the timing belt and no, you don't have to remove any of the timing belt covers. Place a 19mm socket on the crankshaft damper bolt and rotate the engine clockwise until the first, yellow mark on the damper aligns with the "0" degree mark on the lower timing cover. This places the engine at 60 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) on the number one cylinder and puts the greatest tension on the front side of the timing belt. For information, the second, white mark on the damper aligned to the "0" mark is TDC on the #1 cylinder.

Now remove the 2" x 1.5" door off the lower timing belt cover. Place a flathead screwdriver under the single tab and twist. This exposes the 14mm nut on the tensioner pulley. Loosen the nut about a half turn to allow the spring to reset the tension to the proper level. Tighten the tensioner nut to 25-37 lb-ft and reinstall the plastic door.

NOTE: It is very important that the engine is rotated clockwise until the yellow mark is set to the "0" index before setting the timing belt tension.