2013 SHO Owner - Love my car and will never part with it. Car has got 145,000 miles.

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CharlieB

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I think you are confusing the transmission with the PTU. Transmission is filled thru the fill/dipstick tube, under the air filter housing. PTU may be filled thru the vent tube.

You must remove the air filter housing to access the dipstick.
When referencing the PTU, is it also considered the Transfer Case on the SHO, which I had to replace in April this year.
 

CharlieB

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The reason I had referenced the vent was because of people showing on you tube about the draining of the transaxle fluid and connecting an extension tube to the vent tube and how it takes forever for the fluid to enter obviously because your blocking the vent. Got me a little confused. It's funny that after watching several videos about changing the fluid, that noone mentioned the dipstick under the intake box. Thanks for that tip.
 

Zpak

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Yes, the transmission has a dip stick under the air box/piping. The PTU has the vent hose but only on Performance Pack models. Without PP it has to be filled through the fill cap.
 

CharlieB

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A trans drain and fill for me is almost 5 q. I put in the same amount as what drains out.
That's so interesting because the book capacity of the tranny per the book is 11.6 quarts if I got that right. There must be alot of trapped fluid that doesn't drain out.
 

kryptto

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That's so interesting because the book capacity of the tranny per the book is 11.6 quarts if I got that right. There must be alot of trapped fluid that doesn't drain out.
Yes you do two successive changes after running through all the gears on the shifter, take for a local drive, dump and fill again.
 

CharlieB

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Do some research on GDI engines and intake build-up. With your miles, this would be very high on my list for maintenance (cleaning). Odd idle fluctuations with no misfire codes could be a result of carbon build-up in the intake.
I couldn't be happier to let everyone know that my transmission problems are gone. The fluctuations have stopped, no shudder going up hills. I am so psyched, you have no idea. $8,000 averted. And without using the shudder fix.
I drained the fluid and got 5 3/4 quarts out. Refilled and sat for about 15 minutes running at idle, shifting through the gears until the engine was warmed up. Took it for a ride and saw the fluctuations. It takes me about 3 miles to reach the highway. Once on the highway I did something I had seen in a you tube video that made sense to me. I repeatedly took the car from about 50 and rapidly accelerated to about 75 to 80 about 10 times. I believe this helps get the fluid circulating through the clutch mechanism better. On the way home the tach was barely bouncing at all. When I got back, I drained that fluid which again came out pretty burgundy brownish, like the first drain but maybe slightly better. Repeated the same test drive and the tach was solid as a rock all the way home. Never added any any Shudder Fix because I was waiting until the last fluid change, which I thought might not be until the 3rd or 4th draining and saw the fluid clean. My question would be if anyone thinks I should still put the Shudder Fix in or hold that option for a later date should the problem return.
Again I want to thank everyone for their input into this. If I had not heard about the Shudder Fix and potential fluid failure, I sure wouldn't have been told about it by the Ford people. In fact the only reason he talked to me about it was because I brought it up after learning about it here. He even told me he couldn't offer it as a fix or discuss it until I mentioned it. Only then did he open up and tell me it was worth trying and that he had friends that had success with it.
Of the potential problems this could have been, FLUID or MECHANICAL, I am one happy SHO owner with a fluid problem that now appears to be gone.
 

kryptto

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Hold onto the shudder fix until it truly acts up. These sealed transmissions hold much oil, and getting a transmission that was never changed - more than likely, happy you are having positive results. The viscosity and chemistry in the old oil was barely keeping the stresses of this powertrain together. My suggestion, in 12K do another dump and fill.
 

CharlieB

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Hold onto the shudder fix until it truly acts up. These sealed transmissions hold much oil, and getting a transmission that was never changed - more than likely, happy you are having positive results. The viscosity and chemistry in the old oil was barely keeping the stresses of this powertrain together. My suggestion, in 12K do another dump and fill.
I'm considering draining and refilling 2 more times to try and get more of the old oil out. There seems to be no doubt that the fluid lost its friction characteristic and the more I can get out, the longer the transaxle will continue to perform well. Also considering a 30,000 mile frequency of fluid change.
 

kryptto

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I'm considering draining and refilling 2 more times to try and get more of the old oil out. There seems to be no doubt that the fluid lost its friction characteristic and the more I can get out, the longer the transaxle will continue to perform well. Also considering a 30,000 mile frequency of fluid change.
 

CharlieB

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Is there a transmission filter that can be changed on the SHO?
 

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