Does this sound like a crank sensor?

[Jacobvarnum]

Hello,

I recently replaced water pump/timing belt/cps as part of preventative maintenance. When I got it back together and went to fill it with coolant, I realized the seal on the back of the water pump moved and coolant got obviously came gushing out of there. Got the seal seated correctly, but not before I dumped coolant all over my new cps. It drove great for a week and then on my way home from work, it shut off all of a sudden and now I have crank/no start. Does this sound like the cps got wrecked when I got the coolant on it? I’ve also heard they can be dried out and they’ll work fine after, can anyone speak to that?
Thank you in advance, I appreciate you guys,
Jacob

 

[luigisho]

I think they can be dried out but I can't say for sure 100%. You just have to try and see if it will work. Replacements are a PITA and expensive to acquire. Good luck.

 

[Jacobvarnum]

I think they can be dried out but I can't say for sure 100%. You just have to try and see if it will work. Replacements are a PITA and expensive to acquire. Good luck.

Ok thank you. It sounds like it’s the cps causing the no start though, yeah?

 

[luigisho]

Sounds like it from your description. Track down another sensor in case this doesn't work so you at least you know the price and availability. You can also pull the codes to verify crank sensor issue.

 

[Irish Pride]

Spray the sensor down with brake clean to get the residual coolant off. The sensor is pretty much just a magnet so no reason why it shouldn't be able to be cleaned if you caught the leak right away.

-Chad

 

[Jacobvarnum]

Spray the sensor down with brake clean to get the residual coolant off. The sensor is pretty much just a magnet so no reason why it shouldn't be able to be cleaned if you caught the leak right away.

-Chad

Thank you very much!!

 

[thegreatbriguy]

Hopefully this is already resolved.
crank sensors are available from shosource $140.
I have had one fail from waterpump leaking on it for 900 miles or so. It actually fried and burned out externally. Other than that you may be able to dry it out.

 

[Jacobvarnum]

So unfortunately the problem is still there. When I went to load it up on the trailer to get it to my shop to dry out that sensor, I noticed that the clutch has no pressure, it just falls like a feather to the floor and pops back up. It won’t crank if I don’t have it to the floor though, so I assume the sensor is good? I’m thinking the cable broke or got stretched? What do you guys think? And would that be what’s causing my no start?

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Something up with the clutch cable for sure, but if the car cranks with the pedal to the floor and it still won't start, it's nothing to do with the cable. Best to check the codes and see if you get a 14 (89-91) or 211 (92-95) which would indicate a bad CPS.

 

[Jacobvarnum]

Something up with the clutch cable for sure, but if the car cranks with the pedal to the floor and it still won't start, it's nothing to do with the cable. Best to check the codes and see if you get a 14 (89-91) or 211 (92-95) which would indicate a bad CPS.

I just scanned it and got a 11

 

[BaySHO Performance]

I just scanned it and got a 11

OK, Gen 1. Let's make sure you got the whole sequence for a KOEO. You should have got 11 twice in succession, then a 1 signifying the end of the On Demand codes, then an 11 twice in succession indicating no stored codes. Looks like the problem isn't the CPS....

....unless you disconnected the battery or lost all power which would have erased the stored codes.

 

[Jacobvarnum]

OK, Gen 1. Let's make sure you got the whole sequence for a KOEO. You should have got 11 twice in succession, then a 1 signifying the end of the On Demand codes, then an 11 twice in succession indicating no stored codes. Looks like the problem isn't the CPS....

....unless you disconnected the battery or lost all power which would have erased the stored codes.

Yeah I had the battery out and on a trickle charger inside. I finally got time to tear into it and found out just how dumb I am. It looks like I forgot to put the screws into the sensor to hold it in place. I feel like I remember doing that, but there were no screws in the sensor and I don’t see any around the sensor. Interesting, but I’m glad I finally got an answer

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Yeah I had the battery out and on a trickle charger inside. I finally got time to tear into it and found out just how dumb I am. It looks like I forgot to put the screws into the sensor to hold it in place. I feel like I remember doing that, but there were no screws in the sensor and I don’t see any around the sensor. Interesting, but I’m glad I finally got an answer

Hopefully that was it. The gap between it and the vane (30 thou) may have been off and it wasn't sending a signal. But I suggest checking the CPS and crankshaft sprocket vanes for damage. Also be aware that the screws may have finished up behind the sprocket vane and need to be fished out. You may get lucky and be able to do that without removing the timing belt and pulling the sprocket out a bit.

 

[Jacobvarnum]

And thank you to everyone!

Hopefully that was it. The gap between it and the vane (30 thou) may have been off and it wasn't sending a signal. But I suggest checking the CPS and crankshaft sprocket vanes for damage. Also be aware that the screws may have finished up behind the sprocket vane and need to be fished out. You may get lucky and be able to do that without removing the timing belt and pulling the sprocket out a bit.

yeah I checked it at the plug and it wasn’t sending any signals. I’ll let you know tomorrow if I’m able to fish out the old screws