My "new" SHO is driving horribly!! Help me!!

[ponchodan]

Originally posted by ponchodan:
Thanks to everyone for all of your help, I really didn't expect these kinds of helpful responses! I've ordered a cam sensor and will install it on either Monday or Tuesday. Hopefully it will solve most of my problems with the car. Now if only I could figure out what those peculiar popping/rubbing noises are from both sides of the front of the car when I turn the steering wheel at low-speeds! I didn't even know this site existed when I bought my SHO, but I sure am glad I found it! Thanks again.

BTW Doggee, you have mail.

Wow, this really stinks. I put the cam sensor in today and it didn't help anything. I pulled the codes after having the car run for a little after the install and I got these codes:
Was by myself, so I only ran a KOEO test again today.
Hard:
543 (again)- secondary fuel pump circuit failure

Not hard:
211- Profile igniton pickup (PIP) circuit fault

214- Cylinder Identification circuit failure

543 - secondary fuel pump circuit failure

I did clear all previous codes from before the install, so I don't know what that 214 is all about. When the car was cold and I had the clutch in, the rpms kinda bounced up and down between 1300-2000. After driving for a mile or so, the problems began again with the bucking and surging. Then the car died while I had the clutch in coasting down a hill, I started it back up while rolling and limped it back (in shame

) to it's secret parking spot far far away from my home. What should I try next? I am desperate to get this thing running right.

 

[sdpatt]

The 211 code, PIP circuit failure, usually points to the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) mounted behind the crankshaft damper. This $56 part takes a great deal of effort and labor to get to.

Since you just replaced the CID sensor, however, and you are still getting the 214 code, I am wondering if it is not the common element between these two sensors, the distributorless ignition system (DIS) module. This is the gray box on the passenger end of the intake manifold with a plug into each end. I say this, because the normal mode of the CPS failure is to cut the engine off hard. As if you turned off the ignition key. The tachometer drops to zero even though the engine may be coasting down.

Before replacing this module, you should check the very essential ground connection to the DIS module. The ground path is through the ground strap attached to the upper bolt on the rear intake bracket on the passenger side. If this cable is securely attached, check the two 12mm bolts on the brackets at the two ends of the intake crossover tube. These should be torqued to about 20 lb-ft. There should be 4 very small bolts securing the DIS module to the intake crossover tube. If the ground path is intact, check the condition of the two connectors on the DIS module. There should be no moisture or corrosion on the contacts of these connectors.

I'm sorry that your experience has been so trying. Hang in there. It will be worth it when you figure this out.

Scott

 

[ponchodan]

Originally posted by sdpatt:
The 211 code, PIP circuit failure, usually points to the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) mounted behind the crankshaft damper. This $56 part takes a great deal of effort and labor to get to.

Since you just replaced the CID sensor, however, and you are still getting the 214 code, I am wondering if it is not the common element between these two sensors, the distributorless ignition system (DIS) module. This is the gray box on the passenger end of the intake manifold with a plug into each end. I say this, because the normal mode of the CPS failure is to cut the engine off hard. As if you turned off the ignition key. The tachometer drops to zero even though the engine may be coasting down.

Before replacing this module, you should check the very essential ground connection to the DIS module. The ground path is through the ground strap attached to the upper bolt on the rear intake bracket on the passenger side. If this cable is securely attached, check the two 12mm bolts on the brackets at the two ends of the intake crossover tube. These should be torqued to about 20 lb-ft. There should be 4 very small bolts securing the DIS module to the intake crossover tube. If the ground path is intact, check the condition of the two connectors on the DIS module. There should be no moisture or corrosion on the contacts of these connectors.

I'm sorry that your experience has been so trying. Hang in there. It will be worth it when you figure this out.

Scott

Thanks a lot for the help, I really appreciate it. I went and started the car up today to see how it would do, and after cranking it a few times it came to life, it idled smoothly (at 1100 RPM) with no CE light while I let it sit for about ten minutes. I hoped that the car would act better when I took it out, but about a minute after I started driving it, it started acting up again (surprise, surprise). It didn't shut down this time though. It does sound like the car is randomly firing when it does act up, but it's fine if I let it idle from a cold start. When acting strangely, the CE light will sometimes flicker. After driving the car, it will not idle smoothly at all until it is allowed to sit for a while. This time around I listened for any wierd sounds and heard kind of a loud whistling/buzzing that I suspect is coming from the fuel pump. I really wish I could enjoy driving this car in longer intervals.....30-50 seconds 'aint cutting it!

 

[smp321_98]

you should try changing your wires and plugs... could be as simple at that and all your problems would be fixed!!!

 

[slosho]

Also try www.shotimes.com

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95' ATX Silver Frost
Cone Filter W/ heat shield
TB coolant Bypass
Bypassed a few "PCV" lines
Lighting mods
Convinience mods
More to come.

 

[illSHOyou]

Originally posted by ponchodan:
Thanks to everyone for all of your help, I really didn't expect these kinds of helpful responses! I've ordered a cam sensor and will install it on either Monday or Tuesday. Hopefully it will solve most of my problems with the car. Now if only I could figure out what those peculiar popping/rubbing noises are from both sides of the front of the car when I turn the steering wheel at low-speeds! I didn't even know this site existed when I bought my SHO, but I sure am glad I found it! Thanks again.

BTW Doggee, you have mail.

Chances are that the popping noises that you are experiencing are from bad subframe mounts. You will usually hear these sounds during low speed turning, or hard braking. There is a recall on these mounts so you need to check into that and see if the recall was done. Ford should cover it.

Sean
91+ Emerald Green

 

[ponchodan]

Well I tried to start the car today and got nothing. The car wouldn't start after 10 minutes of cranking, bummer. I am beginning to wonder if this is a fuel problem. Is there any chance that it could be something not working properly in the fuel system? The fuel pump makes that high-pitched whine (you know the one), but I don't know if it's bad or not. When the car is acting up, it seem almost like it's sputtering because it's out of gas. The code puller keeps showing me a 543, or fuel pump secondary circuit failure, on both hard and past code modes. Perhaps it might be a bum FPR or fuel pump? Anybody know of a way I can check? Any help is always greatly appreciated.

 

[fredhurderjr]

RickieFrat had the same problem this week. He started with the cam sensor (used), because we had one on the shelf, and it's easier to get to. VERY similar codes. Then since that didn't do it, he replaced the crank sensor, and the car's been running well since. Haven't seen him since yesterday though, so that's with 1 day's grain of salt.

 

[ponchodan]

Hmmmm, crank sensor seems like it may be a pain to replace. How involved is it for a shadetree mechanic like me? What would I expect to pay for somebody to do it for me?

 

[89 Gary]

I recommend you simply make it to the Ford shop and have them "put it on the computer" and they'll let you know what the problem is. Don't be surprised if you have more than one. I'm gonna take a shot and say it's plugs or wires or both. Oil in the well-have you checked? Let us know!

 

[ponchodan]

I've decided to replace the plugs/wires with brand new ones ASAP. But I would think that if they were shot that I would have a constant miss rather than a massive series of misses only when the car is warm and I am driving it. We shall see, and thanks again for the help.

 

[ponchodan]

Well now the car fires up for about two seconds then dies. I can crank it for a while after the initial dying and I get nothing, until the next day. I haven't done anything else to the car yet. I hope I figure this out soon.

 

[luigisho]

These problems plague almost everyone on this board from time to time. I think you need to get all the codes from the computer. Chances are you're going to bend over and fork out big bucks at a garage or become intimately aquainted with your motor. If you're going to replace the crank sensor you should replace the H2O pump 'cuz pump leakage is a major reason for these to fail, and if you're replacing the H2O pump well the timing belt is right there. But on the bright side you won't have to worry about these parts for a while. Sorry it happened to you so early. It happened to me early too. Hang in there!

 

[Mikeys_Taurus]

did you ever read the codes on it? That really does sound like a CPS, especially if the tach is going nuts and doesn't reflect the true engine speed.

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[ponchodan]

How much should I expect to pay to have that replaced for me? I don't really have a place to do it myself and it's getting cold out. I appreciate everyone's input.

 

[Mikeys_Taurus]

Well I believe that the part from Ford is about $60.00? Could be wrong on that though, but you can definately do it yourself. It is a five minute job. Good luck though.

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[ponchodan]

I already replaced the cam position sensor with no difference in the way the car drives. I am wondering now about the crankshaft sensor.

 

[Huntervf]

I believe the crank sensor is about a 5-6 hour "book job" according to Ford. An experienced mechanic should be able to do this in about 4 hours or so.

HOWEVER...before you do any more high dollar work, do one simple thing. Change your fuel filter. I've seen MANY MANY cars running in the same fashion has yours, and the cause has been a plugged fuel filter. It's a quick, easy job and a new filter will only cost $10.00 max. The filter is located under the car on the passenger rear, just in front of the wheel well. Or ****, if you don't want to crawl under the car I'm sure most oil change shops will change a fuel filter for about the same cost as an oil change. A plugged fuel filter will make your car run exactly the way you're describing, and though most people don't realize it, a fuel filter should be changed around every 10,000 miles. I'll bet that, at 97k, your SHO has the original filter on it.

I still think you have a CPS problem as well, but a bad CPS won't cause your car to buck and run poorly...a bad CPS will cause your car to quit altogether.

Try the new fuel filter & see what happens. Even if it's not the cause it's still money well spent, because a bad fuel filter will also shorten the life of your fuel pump.



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"It may be that your sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others....."

-Chris
Taurus SHO Representative, SVT/SHO Society:
http://svt.sho.tripod.com

89 SHO Lt. Titanium, modded & restored
96 Contour SE V6 ATX Midnight Red
-SVT Suspension
-SVT Exhaust
93 Dodge Spirit I4 ATX flat white winter beater, hardly worth mentioning