My daugther's SHO

[Fmaitland]

My daughter bought a 95 Taurus SHO 3.2L a couple of months ago. It seemed very well kept. All of a sudden the idle seemed rougher to her, I sent her to get a can of injector cleaner and on the way there it became extremely rough. It of course lacks power now. It is also harder starting now. I looked for vacuum leaks but cannot find one. I changed the fuel filter, checked fuel pressure while running, 35 psi, installed new plugs. The plugs from #2 and #5 cylinder seemed normal to me while the others were carbon black as if mixture was rich. Just about all the wires were oily and/or wet at the plug end. I tried reading the codes and interpreted them incorrectly I believe, so I opened the EGR valve and checked it. Started to suspect the O2 sensors. Since have determined that the 95 SHO has 3 digit codes, is the correct? If so KOEO gives 111,111, now and KOER gives 536, 521. Cylinder balance gives #2 and #5, the 2 that I thought were OK????? I don’t think the 60000 work was done, as things do not look disturbed.
I have a mist/vapor coming up from the belt/water pump area when you shut the engine off but cannot locate the source as yet. How can you tell if the injectors are causing a problem? They cost about $90 each otherwise I would pull the intakes off, replace the injectors, spark plug wires, and reseal the area. Would appreciate anyone’s in put, if you want you can e-mail me direct at [email protected].
Thanks, Fred

I pulled the "new" front plugs to see what they looked like after having them in for this brief period and #4 looks like carbon some what fluffy, the #5 looks good to me, the #6 looks carbon but maybe wet (oil) just like the originals I took out.
Sorry didn't know where to add to this post so I added here. Let me know the correct way to "repost".
Thanks for all the help so far.
PS what is the best way to check spark??
Thanks,
Fred


[This message has been edited by Fmaitland (edited 01-25-2002).]

 

[sdpatt]

The 111 is no error found. The 536 code is "Brake On Off open or shorted to ground". Do the brake lights work normally? I could not find a description of the 531 code in any of my references. Here are a couple of sources on the EEC testing.
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html http://www.batauto.com/Ford.html

You have taken some significant steps to try to correct this problem. The O2 sensors should not affect the starting as the EEC is in open loop mode and not using feedback from the sensors. I would pull the plug boots and check in the plug wells for oil and water. The secondary ignition system (plugs, wires) faults will not set an error code.

Are you sure that it is not a bad tank of gas with a lot of water in it?


------------------
Scott

1991, 254K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, Alum SFB, SS front/rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
6 disc CD, Class II hitch, Silver award at SHOklahoma Car Show

 

[Diameg]

Perhaps the 531 code was read wrong and it was 521? I believe that is if you don't turn the steering wheel during the KOER test.

Not that I've ever done that and came up with that code.......

------------------
Mike

94 MTX (Rare Green model)
Hi Flow Y-Pipe, Dynomax, UDP's, 80mm MAF, K&N panel, Ted B LPM.

 

[SHOTIME]

I live in Raynham, Other side of Bridgewater.

I could take a look at it for ya..

------------------

Eric
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
My Web Space
New England SHO Specialists

 

[djsSHO]

Originally posted by Fmaitland:
Just about all the wires were oily and/or wet at the plug end.

Sounds like you are possibly getting a spark retard due to the moisture and oil leaking in the wells. I had the same issue. Replaced the spark plug well gaskets and the idle smoothed out after taking the manifold off twice. I hadn't sealed a runner properly and there was a small leak causing a rough idle. When both problems were fixed, she ran like a champ again. I think this is probably one of the main problems you are having with the car. Fel-pro makes a kit to replace the well gaskets and the valve cover gaskets. I'm sure one of the other SHO experts can post it here.

Hope this helps...



------------------
Derek S.
94' MTX SHO
Taylor 8mm Spiro Pro's
K&N Panel
MOMO 12" Sub

 

[ISHOU]

You said the plug wires had oil on them. That probably means you need to replace the plug well seals using the Felpro gasket kit as mentioned before. Auto-zone carries it online but not at their stores for $72. I just ordered mine and got it in 5 days, which included a weekend and ground service. You won't find a listing for the 3.2 so order the gasket set for a 3.0, it's the same
part.

 

[luigisho]

Don't forget, if there's water/oil in the spark plug wells remove it before you remove the spark plugs. You don't want any sedimment and goop in the cylinders.

 

[bigdoggee]

Since you had oil in the spark plug wells and now the car is running rougher chances are that you may have shorted a wire or two. This was the case with my car!! Oil in the spark plug wells shorted out two of my wires, which caused my car to run rough. I would recommend that you change plug well seals, plugs $ wires. Car should run fine after that!! For the plugs and wires I'd stick with Ford Motocraft parts. Seals you can use Felpro. Best price I've seen for plugs and wires is from Fordpartsnetwork.com. Good luck!!

 

[pjtoledo]

I have a mist/vapor coming up from the belt/water pump area when you shut the engine off but cannot locate the source as yet.
Thanks, Fred[/B]

Classic symptom of a leaking waterpump, the leak is dripping on the CPS and destroying it.
Perry Toledo,Ohio

 

[casca]

Originally posted by SHOTIME:
I live in Raynham, Other side of Bridgewater.

I could take a look at it for ya..

im not gonna say it

------------------
*Heather*
92'Silver Frost MTX
aim:xxcascax
[email protected]

originally said by SHOTIME/Billebobob

"Short little blonde hair, blue eyed girl who needs big shoes to see over a counter, who drives like a bat out of **** in her SHO"

 

[Fmaitland]

A theory. If injectors #2 & #5 were "partially" plugged would they spray just enough fuel so the plugs looked like they were burning properly. Although not giving enough power under acceleration. It feels like it is banging on only 4 to 5 cylinders.
Would the "balance test" pick them out as failing as the RPM would not drop as it is suppose to during the test when the injector is shut off.
Would the O2 sensor call for more fuel causing the other 4 cylinders to burn rich, that is what the plugs look like in the other cylinders.
BTW when not under load and reving at 2K the engine is very very smooth. What do you think????

Thanks, Fred

 

[luigisho]

Fred, not sure about your theory. What exactly have you done so far? Help us rule stuff out. By the way, if you're dead set on injectors check out the SHO Shop web site. They sell 6 used, cleaned, and flow tested injectors for the price of 1 new one. I replaced mine and the car ran better but failed to correct my under-powered condition. I cured mine by cleaning MAF and IAC,a new throttle position sensor (cheap part),and new wires/plugs. Again, list any measures you have done so far to rule out the usual suspects. Also you did post #6 was wet/oily after replacing. Was that the top or bottom of the plug? Are the wells/plug boots full of moisture or are the plugs fouling from inside?

 

[Fmaitland]

1995 Taurus SHO Automatic 3.2L

Car started with a rough idle, sent daughter to store to get injector cleaner and before she got there it was very rough. She put 1 can of injector cleaner in and filled the tank.

SHO is very rough at idle and has no power when accelerating. IT IS NOT like plugs or wires causing miss when under load, just no power whatsoever. Like you’re running on 4-5 cylinders. Under NO load, revving at 2K the engine is very very smooth.

THINGS DONE SO FAR:
Changed fuel filter
Changed plugs (gapped at .044” Bosch 4202) Numbered old plugs for reference to cylinder.
Plugs for the #1, 3, 4, 6 cylinders seemed like carbon deposits, fluffy black.
Plugs for the #2, 5 cylinders seemed like they were burning normally.
Fuel pressure while running 35 PSI (range 30 to 45 PSI)
Checked and cleaned EGR, not really dirty.
Checked and cleaned IAC
Checked the TPS
Compression gauge on front bank read approximately left to right 135, 120, and 140. Gauge had rubber hose so I don’t know if it was tight in hole.
Seem to have a spark at all cylinders of the front bank by using the screw driver method.
Cannot locate a vacuum leak, not to say there isn’t one.

First had trouble reading codes as I didn’t know the codes were 3 digit. So at first I was chasing my tail and checking things that didn’t need to be checked. At this point in time I blanked the computer and do NOT have any error codes with KOEO or KOER. The balance test always says #2 & 5 fail.
Checked the new plugs and they seemed like the old ones, except #6 might be a little wet as opposed to fluffy. Plugs and wires are all dry at present. Tested front wires by laying on engine and the wires did not arc over.
Thanks, Fred

 

[clintonk]

Plugs #2 and #5 share a coil, so suspect an ignition problem rather than a fuel problem. One bad plug, one shorted wire, or one open coil can **** 2 cylinders, not one. I second the others: clean and drain the plug wells, replace plug well seals and smear with RTV for a permanent fix, and replace plugs and wires.

Clinton Knight
'90 White 182K
'95 Green 48K

 

[Fmaitland]

The information I have says coil 1 is #1&5, coil 2 is #3&4, coil 3 is #2&6. Can we verify which information is correct? I have cleaned and dried the wells and wires and as I said the wires do not leak to ground when I lay the wire and plug on the engine with the 3 front cylinders.

 

[sdpatt]

The coil pack wire sequence is shown below.

Firewall
5 | 1
6 | 2
4 | 3
Radiator

Scott

 

[SHOTIME]

Im hearing a fuel pressure problem.

Just fixed it on rickies car.

Buy a used regulator, do a fuel pump.

My course of action.


and heather SHHHH (Bow chica bow bow..)

------------------

Eric
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
My Web Space
New England SHO Specialists

[This message has been edited by SHOTIME (edited 01-28-2002).]

 

[Fmaitland]

I have 35 psi while idling(range 30-45 correct??), would I still have a fuel pump/regulator problem? As it is extremely rough at idle wouldn't I see a change in the pressure and/or drop???

Thank You,
Fred

 

[shotx]

How did you find it on their site? That's the only item left I need to get for my upcoming 60K. Do you have an item # or phone # I can use?

Originally posted by ISHOU:
You said the plug wires had oil on them. That probably means you need to replace the plug well seals using the Felpro gasket kit as mentioned before. Auto-zone carries it online but not at their stores for $72. I just ordered mine and got it in 5 days, which included a weekend and ground service. You won't find a listing for the 3.2 so order the gasket set for a 3.0, it's the same
part.

------------------
-Roy

• 95 Silver Frost ATX
• K&N filter
• Summit turbo mufflers

http://www.photoisland.com/servlet/GuestLogin?USERNAME=shotx
password: 95sho

 

[SHOTIME]

Originally posted by Fmaitland:
I have 35 psi while idling(range 30-45 correct??), would I still have a fuel pump/regulator problem? As it is extremely rough at idle wouldn't I see a change in the pressure and/or drop???

Thank You,
Fred

On rickies car it showed as a slow droping of the pressure as you slowly got on the throttle and then eventually rising again near 4K and top end.

It really something you need to know what your looking for.

Keep in mind, 39 PSI is optimal.

------------------

Eric
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
My Web Space
New England SHO Specialists