My Codes......

[SHOBound]

111-System checks OK
117-ECT sensor is/was low or grounded
542-Fuel pump open bad ground or always on
and I think I got a 144 (Oxygen sensor not switching Single Right or Rear HO2S)and 211(Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing) and a 543(Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open)
What can these mean ?
My car does not start or run, the cams turn looking through the valve cover oil fill, the plug wells are all full of oil so I doubt there is any spark getting to the plugs. The motor cranks fine however. I have one other question, the 3.0 has a timing belt that turns both cams and a timing chain that turns both as well. I have a friend that told me there is a chain for each cam, is this true. If your timing belt is off or snapped, the cams will still turn due to the chain, right ? I need some answers to all my dumb questions, thank a million to those that help !!!

 

[Zap]

Here's something to start with... I'm not an expert on any of this stuff, per se, but here goes.....

The first part, which checks for severe faults, all passed OK. That is good.

It appears that the car has a bad Engine Coolant Temp sensor. This is the one which tells the coolant temp to the engine computer, not the one that runs the gauge. The 542 means that the car has stalled in the past, it can be ignored. You probably have a bad Oxygen Sensor, both should be replaced for good measure, but don't worry about that until you get the other problems taken care of.

The 211 means that you are having problems with the CPS. Do you have coolant leaking from the waterpump? That may be a possible cause, though since the unit IS sealed.. maybe not.

I believe the 543 shows an actual problem with the fuel pump circuit. Do you hear the pump prime when you turn the key to start?

Clean the plug wells out by soaking up the oil using paper towels or the like. That alone will greatly help if there is a spark problem.

If the cams are turning, your timing belt is not broken. Each head has a timing chain that drives the exhaust cam based on the position of the intake cam. Both intake cams are driven by the timing belt. So therefore, the timing belt indirectly drives all of the cams.

I might suggest trying to clear all of the codes in the computer by using the clear function of your tester, or by removing your paperclip as the codes are being displayed, and reinserting it after a few seconds. Then I would remove your "tester" and try to start the car a few times. Finally, recheck the codes to see which ones remain. Those are the codes which need to be dealt with first!

 

[AutoSHO]

Chances are if you got a code 211, your CPS (Crank Position Sensor) is bad. What were the events leading up to the car not running?

 

[SHOBound]

Yes, I do hear the fuel pump prime, which leads me to believe I read the code wrong and the fan and fuel pump both turned on momentarily when I turned the key on. I want to clean out the oil wells and I have an pretty good feeling that will be my problem. I have one minor concern though. While I crank the motor, it sounds as if there is no compression, a little bit. I remember doing a compression test on my boat a while back and the thing cranked at like 1800 rpms. Now, the SHO sounds like its turning fast, but its only cranking at 800 or so, which is normal. Some people have told me that the oil in the well will not keep it from running, however, from my knowledge, the spark will ground out in the cylinders where oil is present, and each well is 1 quarter to 3 quarters full of oil. The means of the car failing to run was from the previous owner his ex g/f was driving it around 60 on the freeway and it just conked out. The car was drivin by an older lady with a kid most of the time so it wasnt abused, just wasnt maintained. I think it would be fun to get the car running because everything else is in pretty good shape but I have been getting busy at work and people are asking for parts off the car like the trans/shifter, wheels and it seems like it would be easier to part it out at this time. I'M SOOOOO LOST !!! headbang

 

[SHOBound]

I also want to mention it was a key on engine off test just to clear anything up. The motor does not run.

 

[AutoSHO]

If you've got time on your hands, I would pull the front of the motor apart, as it sounds to me like the timing belt jumped time. even if it didn't break I think the timing is off. I do not think the oil in the plug wells will keep it from running, as I've seen a lot of SHO's with oil coming out of the plug wells run and start ok. I've never seen them alone keep a car from running. Have you checked to see if you have spark yet?

 

[Zap]

I would suggest that you dig into the timing cover and check the alignment of the belt. If the belt has slipped, (and on the MTX there is no auto tensioner, so as the belt wears, there is more liklihood that it could indeed do so) that is more than likely most of your problem. If nothing else, you will be digging into the area where the CPS resides, and if that is bad you will want to replace it anyway! There is no reason to not replace the timing belt, front main seal, and cam seals at the same time. If you really plan on keeping the car, then this would take care of a lot of possible future issues!