I would like to keep some spare crank position sensors on hand, mine keeps giving me trouble. I looked online and saw that the 89-91 mustang had a very similar sensor, and the ranger did as well. Does anyone know if these would work? Connectors look the same and the sensor itself is a little different but otherwise looks similar.
Mustang, Ranger 1991 Crank Sensor?
- Thread starter Jaden01
- Start date
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The current issue I am having is that my SHO won’t start. The starter will engage, the fuel pump kicks on, everything sounds and acts the way it should. I went from driving it fine during the day, parked it, and when I went back that night it wouldn’t start. I’ve had one incident where she sputtered and died in stop-and-go traffic last week, but she started back up.
luigisho
SHO Member
AS I recall there are some differences and I haven't seen a successful use of those other crank sensors in the SHO application. The only ones I am aware of are the small batch runs from the guy on the Tbird forum
Supercoupe Performance keeps aftermarket crank sensors in stock.
-Chad
-Chad
I saw an aftermarket one on ebay today, it was reposted. It's not in the original box though
Do you have a link where I can find the guy?
BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
First off, check the codes to see if they tell you anything. Do this even if the CEL light hasn't come on as very few codes trigger it. That includes CPS and camshaft sensor codes, the two most likely suspects:
You 2 digit code meanings are also listed there.
If it comes back as a PIP fault (Primary Induction Pickup, aka CPS), check the water pump shaft to see if there's a trail of gunk coming out of the small hole at the bottom. If so, you will need a new WP as well. The WP has leaked onto the CPS, shorting it out. Gates 43087 from Rock Auto.
I've read that the Ranger CPS doesn't work, so buy one of these if that's what is needed:
www.supercoupeperformance.com
If you get a CID code (Cylinder IDentification, aka camshaft sensor), run your finger along the bottom of the sensor to see if it's wet with oil. If so, replace the cam seal as well.
You 2 digit code meanings are also listed there.
If it comes back as a PIP fault (Primary Induction Pickup, aka CPS), check the water pump shaft to see if there's a trail of gunk coming out of the small hole at the bottom. If so, you will need a new WP as well. The WP has leaked onto the CPS, shorting it out. Gates 43087 from Rock Auto.
I've read that the Ranger CPS doesn't work, so buy one of these if that's what is needed:
NEW BATCH Crank Position Sensor - Gen 1 & 2 V6 SHO
1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, SHO Crank Position Sensor
If you get a CID code (Cylinder IDentification, aka camshaft sensor), run your finger along the bottom of the sensor to see if it's wet with oil. If so, replace the cam seal as well.
| Camshaft Sensor (Duralast) | F134 | 38 | Autozone |
| Camshaft Seal (National) | 1213N | 8 | | O'Reilly |
New aftermarket option for crank sensors just became available. Link posted in the classified section.
-Chad
-Chad
thegreatbriguy
SHO Member
Thanks Chad. I have new sensors. They are not in a box. I purchased them in bulk but they are new manufacture.
thegreatbriguy
SHO Member
I replied about the box thing. No box, bought them in bulk.
luigisho
SHO Member
best price
New Crank Position Sensor
BRAND NEW recently manufactured aftermarket CPS for a Gen1 or Gen2 Ford Taurus SHO with the Yamaha engine. It will fit the 3.0 manual or 3.2 automatic. It has the clip for the stud on the water pump on the 3.0 MTX. On the 3.2 ATX you will want to remove the rubber block and place it on the new...
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IN STOCK: Crank Position Sensor - '89-93 Thunderbird SC
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NEW BATCH COMING SOON: NOS Crank Position Sensor - '89-93 style
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FastCAD
SHO Member
The CPS fails for a reason. Mostly from leaking coolant from the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. It's best to correct the problem before u use up all those crank sensors.
thegreatbriguy
SHO Member
Fixing a leaky waterpump is always a good idea. I didn't mean to imply that you shouldn't fix that. Its still $140 every time it fails, but there is no shortage of availability now.
FastCAD
SHO Member
I didn't think u were forgetting the water pump but a new wp cost less than a new cps.
I have replaced my share of wp's and the Duralast 2 piece (inner & outer) from Autozone has given me the longest reliable service (so far).
.
FastCAD
SHO Member
tapping that weep hole is a good idea.
there is plenty of room behind the lower engine cover above the cps
I think a small, simple, angled, alum. "vane" or "shroud" epoxied to the block above
the cps would protect it from contamination.
behind the front engine cover(s) is very clean and free from dust, dirt and oil just not dripping anti-freeze lol.
there is plenty of room behind the lower engine cover above the cps
I think a small, simple, angled, alum. "vane" or "shroud" epoxied to the block above
the cps would protect it from contamination.
behind the front engine cover(s) is very clean and free from dust, dirt and oil just not dripping anti-freeze lol.
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