MTX right side Half shaft stuck in diff!

[blackcurrant]

Well, to make a long story short... ineed to change the right side axle oil seal on my 94 MTX so i tried to pull the Right side halfshaft out by dropping the hanger bearing (just like the manual says...) and now, i can't get the shaft out (not enough 'slop' in CV joints...just like yous guys warned!) AND, it won't slide in neither!

What's up with that? Looks like i'm buying a real man's jack from napa and putting her up on blocks/stands ( i tried to use ramps but now i need to pull the wheel) to remove the half-shaft from the hub...HOPEFULLY she'll slide out once the wheel end is clear.

Don't follow the manual..i don't know what good it is...

BTW, do you guys change the hub nut and other suspension hardware like the manual says? Something about torque holding capabilities are compromised?

Mike

<small>[ September 13, 2002, 01:04 PM: Message edited by: blackcurrant ]</small>

 

[shojuan]

Yeah, you need to get that hub out of the way and then the shaft should slide right out. If I have new nuts I use 'em if I don't I reuse the old ones. I think there's more of a problem reusing old hub nuts and castle nuts if you live in the rust belt. Living in California, mine are never that bad as long as I soak them with PB Blaster first. Good luck trying to get a new Hub nut without getting a new CV joint. If you find a source, let me know. I don't even think the rebuilt halfshafts provide new hub nuts.

It sounds like you haven't yet started your collection of tools and sockets for the SHO. A floor jack (even a $19.99 one from walmart like I use) and a pair of jackstands are a must. You'll need a 30mm 6 point deep impact socket for the hub nut. And there's the hex bit (or is it a star bit?) for the brake caliper pins. Somebody, who knows the size please let Mike know. And correct me if I'm wrong on anything here.

Rick

 

[blackcurrant]

You're awesome, Rick, thanks man. It's informative posts like this that keep newbies like me in a car like the SHO.

BTW, I have a 19.99 floorjack, and that's the problem...it just doesn't raise the car enough to my liking.... napa has the full grown jack that will lift the entire front end high enough to stick the stands in...for a cool 150 bucks...

Mike

 

[shojuan]

I want one of those big jacks! Then I'd have enough clearance to use my creeper. Until then I'll continue using the leaf blower to blow all the pebbles off the driveway so I can wiggle under there without too much hurt. Damn chickens always kickin rocks and such onto the drive!

There is nothing like having the right tools for the job!

Rick

 

[blackcurrant]

Rick,

BTW, i was re-reading your post about finding hub nuts...so why does the manual tell the Ford service man to replace...can the dealer get them? They have a part-number. What, the dealer won't sell them to us?

 

[drivinhard]

To take the intermediate shaft out, remove the ball joint/knuckle pinch bolt/nut, separate, remove axle from intermediate shaft, then remove the intermediate shaft. This is the quickest and easiest way to do that, without damaging anything.

 

[LaTechSHO]

the hub nut does come with remanufactured half shafts..... at least all reman by A1-Cardone do... you should be able to get the nut at the dealer if you ask real nice

the brake caliper bolt (OE) is a T-40 torx bit... a lot of aftermarket bolts.... ie. advance auto use a 15mm...which i am in full support of...already broke one torx off in the bolt head

Louis

 

[blackcurrant]

Thanks for the replies...umm, why can't i get the shaft to slide back in? I'm not equipped to seperate the control arm/ball joint, etc. If i could just get thisshaft to go back in i could bolt up the bearing and roll it off the ramp to get it to the shop....

Why won't it go back in?

 

[drivinhard]

Simple, it's not going in straight, probably because the force of the axle is pushing on it.

 

[blackcurrant]

Drivin'

Yes, but, it looks straight!?!?!...i've got the carrier bearing pressed up against the bracket and the holes are lining up...but it won't pop in. It's got me a little worried....it'll still slide out, but not enough to see the splines... i think the splines aren't lining up in the diff, but, if i can't get them to line up it won't go in and i won't be able to roll it off the ramps.

What's up with dat??? eek!

<small>[ September 13, 2002, 05:14 PM: Message edited by: blackcurrant ]</small>

 

[shojuan]

Wow, I don't know what to say. Other than you really need to get the hub seperated. Here's a guide to how to do it http://www.baysho.org/tech/baer/baer-install.asp

I think if you get the hub separated than things will make much more sense. Oh, and if you have the part number for the hub nut and the dealer can get them, go ahead.

Good luck

Rick

 

[LaTechSHO]

FYI for all..... the axle/hub nut is available..its a few dollars

dorman part number 615-089

Louis

 

[shojuan]

Great, thanks! Sorry if I led anyone astray on that.

Rick

 

[RStalveyARFF]

Hey everyone, Mike has a 94, so there are no hex nuts, etc. To separate the control arm/hub use the 24mm socket on the control arm, and it's an 18mm for the balljoint pinch bolt. Remember what I did? It's also an 18mm nut for the endlink, and an 18mm nut for the tie rod end. You'll make it through just fine buddy!!!

 

[blackcurrant]

Finally got her off her wheels by putting my dinky jack on a cinder block and three paving stones to jack it up enough to pull the ramps out from under the wheels. Once the weight was off the wheels i was able to line up the shaft and she popped right in, just like yous guys said it would! thumbs_u .

Pulling it out, however, is another story. I'm not seperating the hub with my pathetic tools

i decided to tap the old seal in as best as i could until i could find i reasonable shop to help. Topped off with new fluid and it's holding for now.

Anyway, thanks for all your help, everyone. You all are awesome! wink