Motorcraft AGSF32PM Spark Plugs

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Egg

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Did a search couldnt find anything on them but its what i got when the "kid" looked up my car at the auto store. Will these plugs work with the wires?

The same kid tried giving me the wire set for a SLO and then only gave me 4 plugs, I had to ask him for two more of them. To say the least im unsure about what he gave me, Any input would be great.

Also does anyone have expierience with changing the plugs with the intake on and care to share some info?
 

TYSHO

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Ace said:
actually now its AGSP32FMS6 ...they come as a 6-pack now...

The S6 probably indicates the 6 pack box...look at the individual spark plug boxes. I'm sure you can purchase them seperate.
 

allbuti

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Mine read AGSP32FM F6 (instead of S6) Stock # 61111. Are these the same? It is a six-pack. Thanks.
 

Egg

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Thanks for the info, as soon as i read your response i returned them for the FMs. Couldnt get to swaping them today though i had to refill my A/C and adjust the air gap in the A/C pump clutch., Fun stuff in 90+ weather.
 

Egg

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Well finally got the plugs and wires swaped out. Here are the details.

Getting to the back of the engine:
You have to remove the platic shrowd on the firewall. Its held in by plastic clips like wall anchors, take out the plastic screw and the clip comes out. One of them was striped and i had to pry it out.

Oil in the wells:
I borrowed an idea from the MTX fluid change and used a shop vac, a two liter bottle and some hose to suck out the oil while spraying carb cleaner in there just to make sure it was clean. I do recommend somthing better than a two liter bottle because it caved in the second i turned the shop vac on.

Plug Removal:
When i went to remove the plugs i just used a long and short extention to remove them. When removing the back 3 i had to remove a metal bracked with a small plastic canister and a sensor held to the intake with a 12mm bolt. After that the extentions and the 5/8 plug socket went into the plug wells no problem. The old plugs were AGSP32PPs, were very old, and had crush washers where the new AGSP32FMs didnt

Plug Installation:
When you first intall them its a llittle tricky to get the socket off the plug when using a plug socket. I hand tightened them then removed the rubber insert from the socket then tighened them down

Wires with intake on:
Boy was this fun, its pretty basic, just swap them one at a time routing them the same way. Make sure to take the plastic clip off the coil end of the wire otherwise its impossible. I used ProSpark wires, it was all the the local parts store had and they were only 60 bucks! However the front bank of wires were way to long and the slack causes them to rest on the coolant line going to the throttle body. I plan to replace them with the Motorcraft wires or maybe somthing better.

Dont forget to reset your idle

After changing my O2s/Plugs/Wires my car runs 100% better. When i got done it was raing and late so i just drove it enough to set the computer but i look forward to the drive to work in the moring.
 

Fastball

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Hey Egg

How did you make out with the A/C pump clutch?

Need to do mine, (hopefully on Saturday), and was wondering how it went.
Any advice/tips??

Later,
Dave
 

Egg

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Its real easy just follow the guide on shotimes, just remove the battery and tray to get at the pump, undo the nut in the center of the pully, the only pain in the butt is getting the clutch off the compressor, it took me lots of time to gently rock it off the spindle i used two large flathead screw drivers and a wide chisile to get it off
 

Fastball

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Sounds good! It is suppossed to be cooler here this weekend and I'm going to give it a shot.

Thanks for the heads up!!

Later,
Dave
 

SHO green like$

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sparky plugs

Ace said:
actually now its AGSP32FMS6 ...they come as a 6-pack now...


Hey I went to Wallly Mart and had their shop guy look up to see if they had Plugs for my 95atx, and their book said 95 SHO can use Autolite - AP3924 platinum, and Autolite 3924 non platinum (in the orange pkg) do you think these would be OK or not??
 

Rockledge

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SHO green like$ said:
Hey I went to Wallly Mart and had their shop guy look up to see if they had Plugs for my 95atx, and their book said 95 SHO can use Autolite - AP3924 platinum, and Autolite 3924 non platinum (in the orange pkg) do you think these would be OK or not??
Because of the DIS "waste spark" design, you'll want to use the Autolite double platinums (APP3924).
 

SHO green like$

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Rockledge said:
Because of the DIS "waste spark" design, you'll want to use the Autolite double platinums (APP3924).


Thanks!!

I don't think they had the APP3924's.....The AP3924's are only $3.97 per two pack.. $2.00 each was real tempting.... I think AZ quoted me like $25.00 for 6 pack...Geez :cry:


Wassup with the "waste Spark"??? Are you referring to it sparking on the exhaust stroke to "afterburn" like my Cavalier, and Nissan p/u??

Ahhh I just figuered out the waste spark... with the anode/cathode reverse
 

Johnny_Eye

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Why is it important to perform an idle reset after you replace plugs and wires? I'm just curious, because I thought the idle reset simply cleared the codes and established load maximums.
 

SHOZ123

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Waste spark refers to firing the plugs every two strokes or on both compression and exhaust. The only reason for it is the coil design with one coil for two plugs. One side of each individual coil is + voltage (cyl 1,2 & 3) and the other side of the coil is - voltage (cyl 4,5 & 6).

But the reason for the need of double plats is is because bank two or plugs 4,5 and 6 fire up from the block through the plug and back to the coil, hence the need for platinum in the ground tip. You could use the regular single plats on bank one (1,2 and 3) as they fire from the coil to down through the plug to the block. This is the way they came from the factory.

V6_Ignition_schematic.gif


FWIW you will get better performance with a copper plug vs a plat but they will need to be changed at 25k or so. Platinum plugs are good for long life, not necessarily highest performance.
 

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