More high idle issues..............

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

DigDeez

New Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Messages
527
Reaction score
2
Location
Chicago
sdpatt:
Search keys: idle speed reset procedure

NOTE 1: The Ford owner's manual directs that the idle program be relearned following any service when the battery has been disconnected. To do this, it states that the engine should be started and allowed to idle for the (approximately) 70 seconds without touching the gas pedal. Adding the accessory loads ensures that the EEC and IAC valve can accommodate the additional air flow requirements and still maintain the programmed idle speed.

NOTE 2: It is preferable that the car be driven immediately after setting the idle programming. While driving, allow the coolant temperature to rise to the normal range and run the car through its entire performance range.

Idle Speed Program Reset Procedure
-----------------------------------------

1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
....Optionally, disconnect the keep alive memory connector in the small wire also landed to the
....negative battery terminal. You can then wait the 10 minute minimum, reconnect the plug
....and go to step 6. I have found this option to not be as effective as disconnecting the battery.
2) Turn on the headlight switch.
3) Wait at least 10 minutes.
4) Turn off headlight switch.
5) Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
6) Start engine normally (never press the gas pedal).
7) Allow the idle speed to settle for at least 30 seconds.
8) Within 70 seconds of starting the engine, concurrently apply all accessory loads.
....a) Climate control to MAX A/C.
....b) Headlight switch ON, brights ON.
....c) Turn steering wheel slowly ~1/4 turn side to side.
....d) Press brake pedal.
....e) ATX SHOs only: shifter to DRIVE.
9) Do not turn off engine for at least 5 minutes.
I went out and followed these procedures, but my idle speed is still to high. It will idle around 2000-2500. And when you rev it, the idle will slowly come back down. I didn't however follow 'Note 2' above. I didn't have this problem until after cleaning the intake through the throttle bottle. I will try the procedure again along with Note 2 again. Also, when I rev it up to exactly 4000rpm, the engine begins to have some type of secondary sputter or jump, and if I rev higher than this, this jumping speeds up also.

Can anyone offer any advice toward this? Thanks!

DigDeez
 

sdpatt

Sr. SHO Engr.
Joined
Dec 6, 2000
Messages
9,670
Reaction score
383
Location
Dallas, TX
Most likely a vacuum leak. First check the vacuum hoses and if no problems found, remove and replace the intake manifold.
 

DigDeez

New Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Messages
527
Reaction score
2
Location
Chicago
Pardon the inexperience, but when checking for vacuum leak, what am I checking for and how am I checking these. Is it simply a visual check? What specific lines am I checking?......don't know which lines are which.

...And removing/replacing the manifold does what?

Will a vacuum leak cause these jumping symptoms at 4000rpm? None of this occured before cleaning the manifold.

Also, how does a bad IAB affect drivebility? Is this an easy replacement? Cost?
Thanks, again!

<small>[ November 19, 2003, 01:27 PM: Message edited by: DigDeez ]</small>
 

twr

whoohoo
Joined
Aug 23, 2001
Messages
2,131
Reaction score
44
Location
half-way there, I think.
Another possiblity is that the TPS (throttle position sensor) is seeing 1 volt or more at idle. If this is the case, the pcm (eec) thinks that you have your foot on the gas, albeit very slightly and the it will elevate the throttle. I ocassionally have this happen, since my TPS is set a .98 volts.
 

Joe'sSHO

New Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2003
Messages
200
Reaction score
0
Location
Winsted, CT
I'm not sure this is a problem necessarily, but to replace the TPS is a 3min job and it only costs about 20 bucks. I'd check for a vaccum leak first and then if you don't find anything just go ahead and replace the TPS.
 

DigDeez

New Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Messages
527
Reaction score
2
Location
Chicago
Went out and ran codes.....

I of course got a 411 code- Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generallyy idle too high).

If I am looking correctly I don't find any vacuum leak.

Also, why am I continuously getting a 33 code for a 93 Sho. It's the EGR code. Before cleaning out the clogged ports a few days ago, I don't have the engine light on any more. And I did not get a 332 EGR code. What's the deal with the 33 code?

<small>[ November 19, 2003, 05:01 PM: Message edited by: DigDeez ]</small>
 

SHO_Driver

New Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2002
Messages
517
Reaction score
0
Location
Montreal, QC
You can't rev an ATX past 4K in park or neutral, the computer cuts the engine to protect the torque converter. Same thing in SLO's.

<small>[ November 20, 2003, 01:11 AM: Message edited by: SHO_Driver ]</small>
 

DigDeez

New Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Messages
527
Reaction score
2
Location
Chicago
Thanks! wink

Also, any word on the codes that I got?

<small>[ November 20, 2003, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: DigDeez ]</small>
 

masho95

got Zex?
Joined
Mar 5, 2003
Messages
2,039
Reaction score
4
Location
Chicopee, MA
Did this problem occur out of no where, or did you recently do some work on the car that this happened after? Check the idle speed control connection. (Not the IAB) It's located to the driver side rear of the intake manifold. I recall symptoms somewhat like yours after pulling the intake and forgetting to reconnect the connector there. I think I had a 411 code also.
 
Back
Top