missing oil mystery
- Thread starter sho4life
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gmail
Well-Known Member
someones ******* with you
93rev2sev
SHO Member
LOL.
You need an oilpan monkey (cousin of trunk monkey).
You gotta be burning it. Have you been under the car looking for oily parts?
You need an oilpan monkey (cousin of trunk monkey).
You gotta be burning it. Have you been under the car looking for oily parts?
i went under the car and found power steering fluid, fixed the leak, tranny fluid, fixed the leak, but no oil. im going to run a compression test. what would burning oil show up on a compression test? and what should a healhty sho be at?
sperold
Last to Know
What oil are you using.... the make and the grade?
And how hot has it been lately, where you are?
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=111492
Have a look at this thread and you won't feel alone.
And how hot has it been lately, where you are?
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=111492
Have a look at this thread and you won't feel alone.
Last edited:
sperold
Last to Know
My 89 will consume synthetic oil quicker than regular oil. While looking over the AutoRX website, I noticed it mentioned that synthetics have some kind of polar thing that allows it to hang to metal longer and better. Without knowing anything about that, I know the regular oil lasts longer in my 89, so maybe start there. Lots of people swear by the AutoRX in being able to turn around an oil consuming motor, but I have not graduated to that yet.
pitaSHO
Why do I do this to myself?
How many miles on the engine? Sounds like valve stem seals. My guess would be you don't see any burning oil under normal power or acceleration, but if somebody was behind you when you laid into it I bet they see smoke.
Chris K.
Chris K.
i started off with vavoline vr1 racing oil, got it half off special. now i use high milage hoping it would help. i dont use any driving nice but when i drive it hard it uses it, see the smoke now. the engine has somewhere between 125 and 150 k on it. How can you tell the difference between needing new valve stem seals or piston rings? Also can i use a thicker oil or some kind of additive to help? otherwise ill just replace the valve stem seals when i put on my new intake.
frosho
WOLFMAN
Auto-Rx
Follow the directions.
Follow the directions.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
pitaSHO
Why do I do this to myself?
Yeah, valve stem seals are a lot more involved than that. You have to pull the cams, valve shim buckets, then the valve springs, while keeping the piston pressurized with air (or just remove the heads) so the valve doesn't drop down into the cylinder; or then you REALLY will be removing the heads. I tried Auto RX and it didn't fix my problem, but I also have 215k on mine. Best of luck.
Chris K.
Chris K.
sperold
Last to Know
Try the AutoRX and see how it goes. According to one post, it contains lanolin, which may swell the valve seals back to their useful size, and it also somehow scrubs your ring lands and gets rid of the baked on carbon deposits in that area. Sounds too good to be true, but everyone (almost) is raving about it, so why not?
Everyone will scream at my next comment, and you can take it for what it is worth. I use 15 W 40 in the summer in my 89 and the consumption goes down....way down. In the winter, I use 5 or 10 W 30, and, consumption is less of a problem in the cold winter months as you have probably noticed.
Prepare for howls of protests on this point, but like I said, take it under advisement.
If you are going to do the AutoRx, I would use the 5 or 10 W 30, as it will work better for that cleaning phase.
Everyone will scream at my next comment, and you can take it for what it is worth. I use 15 W 40 in the summer in my 89 and the consumption goes down....way down. In the winter, I use 5 or 10 W 30, and, consumption is less of a problem in the cold winter months as you have probably noticed.
Prepare for howls of protests on this point, but like I said, take it under advisement.
If you are going to do the AutoRx, I would use the 5 or 10 W 30, as it will work better for that cleaning phase.
i talked to the inventer of auto rx and he said i need 3 bottles, one to clean , then flush then refill and run and so on, its a big process and will work if done correctly. Its not engine restore or sea foam which he said is useless. and if im taking off the heads i goin to put in stage 2 cams and biiger valves. its always one thing after anoher with a sho
Are you sure that it is valve stem seals and not stuck rings that are causing your greef?
Auto-Rx can free up stuck rings in as little as 500 miles of driving with the product installed. Worn stem seals can only be corrected by replacement. Sometimes running a cleaning dose of ARX will clean up oxidized oil deposits in the stem seal valve guide area of interface. But the biggest advantage of ARX is to clean up the ring packs and minimize blow by gases and resulting fuel dilution issues.
Auto-Rx can free up stuck rings in as little as 500 miles of driving with the product installed. Worn stem seals can only be corrected by replacement. Sometimes running a cleaning dose of ARX will clean up oxidized oil deposits in the stem seal valve guide area of interface. But the biggest advantage of ARX is to clean up the ring packs and minimize blow by gases and resulting fuel dilution issues.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
One way to tell if rings are the issue is to sniff the oil fill hole on a hot, running engine....right after an oil change.
If there's a bunch of blowby, you'll smell exhaust and you might even feel some wind in extreme cases.
If there's a bunch of blowby, you'll smell exhaust and you might even feel some wind in extreme cases.
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