Middle of Upper 60k Q's

[290]

As stated, When taking off the rear valve cover i had some serious difficulty. It was pinched between the heater core coolant lines and the "Fuel Rail Bridge". Getting it out wasnt a big deal i just had to use a pry bar to get enough leverage to move the steal coolant lines back far enough to slide the cover through. Im worried about actually getting it back in there without messing up the gasket.



Can i get away with taking off the fuel rail bridge and not have to replace any seals?

Second, i am also replacing my cam chains and cleaning the tensioners. How do i go about doing this? what needs to be lined up where and what do i need to look out for when doing somthing like this. Thanks for any help you can offer, i want to make sure i get it done right so im not doing this again or an unexpected 3.2 swap down the road.



Heres my car sitting in the shop i work in. Luckily its heated so i get to do this inside away from the cold!

 

[jayro]

When I did my 60k I zip tied everything I could out of the way and also had a helper push things back by hand. I then used a mirror to look and make sure that the gasket didn't roll. No problems so far.

Jeremy

 

[290]

Thanks i will definitly put a mechanics mirror on my shopping list for tomarrow!

 

[jedhead]

A second set of hands is always helpful too.

Bob

 

[wood_e]

Yep, 2 people makes it easier. Nice looking valve train!

 

[SHOtimer]

The helms provided me with a great step by step of removal and reinstallation of the cam chain tensioners, and lining it all up again. However, if you don't have access to one of those, www.autozone.com - under their vehicle repair guides has a very similar step by step which will accurately show you how to remove and reinstall (retime) the cams. It is also helpful to make not of the position of the cams when you remove the chains.

Doug

 

[290]

I have the actual ford service manuel for the car. I should have mentioned that it says to take out the cams! Dont want to do that if its not nessesary. Later in the manuel there is a proceider (sp?) for checking the cams for wear and says to just pull them but no detail as far as what order to do things in. Im worried that when i go to take the sprockets of that the cam will jump. Anyway im at the shop and just got done doing a heavy salting on all of our accounts and am rather tired so i dont think i will be doing anything with it today. Thanks for all of your tips. As car as the valve train this car has seen nothing but synthetic oil since i bought it at 112k and gets takin on long drives to work every day. Its treated me very well and id like to give it the same courtesy and keep her going for another 150k. After i get done with this is rod bearing time.

 

[SHOtimer]

You can do the rear head just fine without pulling the cams. However, to remove the chain on the front head you will have to pull one of the cams...IIRC.

It is 'ok' if the cams skip time, you just need to line them back up when you retime it.

Doug

 

[290]

Ugh still no sleep! Been up so long i cant.

Damn! i was hoping i wouldnt have to do that and risk stripping the heads.

 

[Yamaha V6]

You do not NEED to pull a cam for either chain. It IS easier if it happens to be out, but not necessary.

 

[290]

Well.. I got away with just having to remove the exhaust cam on the front and was easily able to get the tensioner and chain off.



However i found somthing i really didnt want to see. The cam bearing closest to the front of the motor looks bad like it was starved for oil at one point. I tried to get some pictures but my phone camera wasnt able to get a clear enough shot to really see the damage.



Wish i had the money to buy an engine and get it built up real nice outside the car and throw it in......maybe next year.

 

[290]

Anyone else noticed more wear on the front exhaust cam bearing? Im wondering if it sees more wear because of the fact it has to support four cam lobes on the end.

 

[green91SHOPlus]

Yeah, as far as I know, it's ok to remove the fuel rail bridge because the seals are copper or brass rings. I had to remove the thing to make it easier for myself to replace the injector o-rings, and I drove it perfectly fine afterwards with no problems. I'm jealous of your garage. I need one of those, I've got to replace my tranny... :cry:

 

[290]

Ugh, im most likely going to have to replace my clutch in short time. ive been feeling it chatter where it shoudnt be on the way home from work in rush hour traffic. That is if this cam bearing thing doesnt screw the pooch.

 

[290]

Well since there isnt anyone on the board with expierience in this area im just going to have to throw it back together and see what happens. Ill update the post when im done and cross my fingers this thing doesnt blow up in my face. Wish me luck!

 

[290]

Ported The Intake

Well while waiting for the tools to do the valve lash i decided to port my intake:

Before



After



And the tools



Next are the heads which im having reservations about doing. I think im going to do the playdoh trick and have a vacume next to the die grinder to keep as little metal from droping into the intake port as possible.

 

[290]

Finished gasket matching/porting the tanks and installed the exhaust cam with the good news that none of the bolts striped (whew!) I did the first stage at 95in lbs then 12ft lbs on the second. Got the new timing chain in the front while asembling everything along with the tensioner after rebuilding it. Tomarrow is the rear timing chain and the nerve racking porting of the heads. I have the feeling im going to have a hard time keeping my hands still while doing this one!

When reasembling the intake should i just leave the horns out? or are they nessesary without BBBs.

 

[jedhead]

Unless you have BBB, leave the horns in. They help increase velocity of the air.

Bob

 

[290]

I "heart" working on my car!

Well got to taking the rear timing chain tensioner off and.....



Whats the big deal right? Well this one does tricks!

 

[SHOtimer]

Well got to taking the rear timing chain tensioner off and.....

Whats the big deal right? Well this one does tricks!

Looks like a bit of a problem there....

Doug