major sho problems

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Dr_Thompson

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after doing a recent clutch install im having major issues. Its grinding in 2nd,and i can feel the rod shifter moving as i drive the car. For example, i hit a bump and the shifter moves up and down. Also theres a nasty clunk after couple seconds. HELP!
 

SHO--ripper

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I'm currently helping the Dr. do some surgery. The new clutch is slipping. The pedal is very light and it engages at the top. I tried adjusting the clutch cable a few times, and it does nothing. I looked at the adjusting mechanism, and tried to adjust it by hand, it didn't do anything. This tranny didn't grind into 2nd gear before the clutch was done, and it does now. The rod shifter vibrates a LOT with front to back motions. He has good motor mounts and new ASB's in the car. I made sure the motor wasn't moving by having him pull forward, push in the clutch, and the motor isn't moving.
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Remember the problems I was having when i did my clutch?
When i thought that motor mounts kept on loosening, resulting in a clunk, and weird vibes and groaning thru the shifter?

check to make sure the front sway bar isnt installed UP-SIDE-DOWN :squint:
If it is, it will make contact with the rod shifter during suspension events.

Oh the shame :eek:
 

SHO--ripper

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Ding ding ding, we have a winner. Thats what it is. At least the rod shifter vibrations. Would that cause the clutch to slip though? :bonk:
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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I knew it! :D Too many similar syptoms to not be :bonk:

As for slippage, are you sure the clutch cable is moving freely in the sheath? It isnt hung up anywhere?
 

SHO--ripper

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I was looking at the clutch cable and it didn't seem to be hung up. A double check wouldn't hurt before i pulled the tranny :rolleyes:
 

Bizzy

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Perhaps oil or something else was on the disk or flywheel prior to install. Other than glazing that's the only thing I can suggest if the disk was new when installed. Was the flywheel resurfaced when the disk was put in? How old is the disk?

Edit: If a new disk and PP were installed were they cleaned prior to install? Most manufacturers put a glaze type stuff on them to keep them from rusting while being stored. The flywheel should also be cleaned to remove any oil that was used while resurfacing it.
 

Bizzy

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Also one needs to watch out for some problems with Ford Reman pressure plates. I just got finished pulling a perfectly good clutch and pp out of a 95 MTX that I did some work on. The PP appears to be defective, as it wasn't letting the clutch disc release all the way Even after adjustment to the pedal it wouldn't release all the way.

For 1-5 while moving the tranny just felt notchy, but at a stop it was really hard to get into first gear and was borderline grinding going into forward gears. Reverse was a grind all the time, even when shifting 1,2,3 or 4 before hand. When I pulled the clutch out the PP and FW were showing signs of heat marks. After like 20 miles of test driving the clutch was glazing things over cause it was never really releasing.

Popped another disc in there and one of Josh's HD PP's and the problem was solved. Measured both discs and they measured the same, so the only thing that could have been doing the problem was the Ford reman PP. The "Quality Renewal" sticker still haunts me.

Moral of the story if the clutch is slipping that soon, and with the grinding, sounds like your PP isn't allowing the disc to release, that will cause things to glaze over and slip if it is real bad. I pay $240 for a Ford reman clutch kit (new disc, remanufactured PP, and new PP bolts) New Stock disc and Josh's HD PP is $340, the extra $100 is worth not having to do work twice. Here on out for me, anyone that has me do a clutch job for them, I will only use Josh's PP or one from a place like Southbend, ect.
 

Dr_Thompson

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the clutch was bought from mikey at midwest. I have yet to hear of a problem from their clutches so i dont think its that. I didnt clean any oil off of the clutch disk that might have come packaged with it. I was however careful to avoid getting any oil on the disk. The flywheel was resurfaced and cleaned with brake cleaner. Do you really think its possiable that the clutch just has some factory oil on it. Would driving it another 20 miles or so have major wear on the clutch?I wanna see if it just needs to be broken in but i dont wanna Fup the disk while doing so. I honestly think its something with the PP. Thw way the car is slipping it feels like the TB is just moving in enough to let it engage.Oh man, i hate when things go wrong :squint:
 

Dr_Thompson

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oh yeah, is there any chance that the front sway bar could be causing this. It is in wrong witch is affecting the rod shifter but could it be causing the linkage to mess up too. I really doubt but i figure i should throw it out there. is there anything else i shold check externaly besides the the clutch pedal and fork?
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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What we all hate more than things going wrong, is having to do a job twice. :rant:

The disc should not have any kind of oil on it right out of the box. And you did prep the flywheel correctly.

Did the input shaft get a fresh quill sleeve? And one that matched the TOB?
Is the clutch pedal tough, or feel crunchy at all?

With the info given thus far, it does sound like a PP problem. Good luck. :thumb:
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Dr_Thompson said:
oh yeah, is there any chance that the front sway bar could be causing this. It is in wrong witch is affecting the rod shifter but could it be causing the linkage to mess up too. I really doubt but i figure i should throw it out there. is there anything else i shold check externaly besides the the clutch pedal and fork?

when I happened to install the FSB up-side-down, I did have a bit of grindage because of the rod shifter being fooled around with by the SB.

But no, the front sway bar coming in contact with the rod shifter would have nothing to do with slippage. Before tearing into it again, I would try to confirm that the TOB is sliding on the quill properly, as well as make sure the cable is moving freely. (both done by disconnecting the cable from the fork)
 

SHO--ripper

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I drove this car and the clutch pedal is very light and vibrates (pp bolts not Tq'd down all the way)
The clutch cable is moving correctly, but it will be looked at again. He installed a new clutch about a month ago and the disc blew up on him when he shifted into 4th :doh: :rice:
The quill sleeve and resurfaced flywheel have less than 500 miles on them.

Time to pull it apart again:jab: :bonk:
 

Dr_Thompson

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you know what im wondering, if i put to much locktite on the pp bolts. damn i bet i did. The clutch disk wouldnt be able to burn that stuff off would it? Think i would need a new disk?
 

Bizzy

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you can't use too much loctite threadlocker. The threadlocker is an anerobic compound, meaning that it only cures in the absence of air. Any extra that was on the bolt would have been evaporated as the FW and what not got heated up from friction. Unless you had so much 242 (Blue Threadlocker) on there as to have massive amounts runnng down the FW after install you should be fine. Even if there was liquid left after install it would burn off very quickly on a clutch disc or FW as it is not an oil based product.
 

Dr_Thompson

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hmmm good point. Im also wondering how would 2nd gear grind due to the clutch slipping? All the tranny did was sit so how could it go bad? And why just 2nd.
 
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