Main Bearing replacement found and tested successfully!

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Dirk37

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Everyone's heard the rumors of the Russians (@mavericksav) using 1994 Toyota 3.0 4runner bearings in a sho. No one else had ever tried it, until now. While rebuilding turbo sho's engine, I decided I would give the Toyota bearings a shot. So far I have about 300 miles on the engine (lots of that under boost) and no signs of any issues. Have 30-35 psi of oil pressure at 2k rpm.

The Toyota bearing dimensions are almost identical to the sho bearings. Here's are the catalog specs comparing the two.

Upload 2018 1 27 0 53 37

Center bearings (2&3) are basically identical and drop in directly.
Upload 2018 1 27 1 0 35


End bearings (1&4) require dremeling new tang slots so the oil holes lines up.
Upload 2018 1 27 0 57 5
The end bearings in the sho engines are wider than the middle bearings. The Toyota sets only come with 1 wider bearing though, so two sets of Toyota bearings are needed.

When dremeling new tang slots, you want the new tang slots to be on the opposite side of the bearing than the original tang slot. To figure out where to dremel, I put the bearing in as far as it would go with the oil hole lined up. Then I used a sharpie to mark where to dremel. Then I slowly removed material until the bearing fit.

Here's what the plastigauge results were.
Upload 2018 1 27 1 35 49


I'll update this thread if any issues occur, but all seems to be well!

Upload 2018 1 27 1 43 8
 
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rubydist

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That sounds very promising. Please keep us updated.
 

Dirk37

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There's two types of Toyota mains, one with a single oil hole and ones with 3 oil holes. Not sure how to tell the difference between them. One set I had had 1 hole and one set had 3 holes. I wanted 3 holes in both of the end bearings so I just drilled 2 more holes in the end bearing that had a single hole. If you get two sets of the 3 hole bearings no drilling is required.

I can't find a lot of my pics for some reason, so the ones here show the single hole bearings. I ended up using the 3 hole ones though.
 

OG-SHOguy

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Everyone's heard the rumors of the Russians using 1994 Toyota 3.0 4runner bearings in a sho. No one else had ever tried it, until now. While rebuilding turbo sho's engine, I decided I would give the Toyota bearings a shot. So far I have about 300 miles on the engine (lots of that under boost) and no signs of any issues. Have 30-35 psi of oil pressure at 2k rpm.

The Toyota bearing dimensions are almost identical to the sho bearings. Here's are the catalog specs comparing the two.

View attachment 5966

Center bearings (2&3) are basically identical and drop in directly.
View attachment 5968


End bearings (1&4) require dremeling new tang slots so the oil holes lines up.
View attachment 5967
The end bearings in the sho engines are wider than the middle bearings. The Toyota sets only come with 1 wider bearing though, so two sets of Toyota bearings are needed.

When dremeling new tang slots, you want the new tang slots to be on the opposite side of the bearing than the original tang slot. To figure out where to dremel, I put the bearing in as far as it would go with the oil hole lined up. Then I used a sharpie to mark where to dremel. Then I slowly removed material until the bearing fit.

Here's what the plastigauge results were.
View attachment 5969


I'll update this thread if any issues occur, but all seems to be well!

View attachment 5970
You my friend deserve the SHO medal of honor for that post in my opinion.....thank you, really...thank you!
 

Dirk37

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I reused the old ones. The motor I rebuilt had over 200k and the thrust bearings looked new so I didn't mess with them. There's probably a way to adapt the Toyota ones but I didn't see a good reason to.
 

Dirk37

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Another way to make this easier: You can just grind the tang off the bearing. The bearing is held in place by the force of the bearing edges pushing on eachother. The tangs are solely for alignment purposes. Interestingly a lot of new bearings don't even have tangs on them. So if you're careful in seating the bearings, you can just remove the tangs which saves you from dremeling the block.
 

rubydist

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If you do remove the tang, be very careful to have the ends of the bearing halves line up with the ends of the caps. If the bearings are rotated so the ends don't line up at the end of the cap, then you may have a clearance issue.
 

OG-SHOguy

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Another way to make this easier: You can just grind the tang off the bearing. The bearing is held in place by the force of the bearing edges pushing on eachother. The tangs are solely for alignment purposes. Interestingly a lot of new bearings don't even have tangs on them. So if you're careful in seating the bearings, you can just remove the tangs which saves you from dremeling the block.

I think it might be better just to dremel the block in this case...it is such a minor thing to do. If you choose not to dremel the block and you dont have the bearings lined up correctly I would think the potential for catastrophic result is eminent. Wouldn't you think, or am I understanding this wrong?
 

Dirk37

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As long as they're mostly aligned its ok. Mine were slightly off and I haven't had any issues.
 

OG-SHOguy

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As long as they're mostly aligned its ok. Mine were slightly off and I haven't had any issues.
:thumb:......Dirk37 appreciate all your input on this, I will be using this method on my 3.3L build later this year. Thanks again.

I vote to Sticky this info...what does everybody else think?
 

Dirk37

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Yay my first sticky! I'll keep this updated if I run into any issues. So far the only issue I've had is the improved oil pressure making my turbo feed leak lol
 

OG-SHOguy

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Yay my first sticky! I'll keep this updated if I run into any issues. So far the only issue I've had is the improved oil pressure making my turbo feed leak lol
Congratulations on your 1st Sticky:cheers:.... I reached back out to my contact at Mahle to get all the options available for these new sets...I am trying to see if they will make some in the "H" designation for all the boosted guys and the high powered applications. The "H" designation is for High Performance and can withstand higher load. If we cant, no biggie but it doesn't hurt to try.:dribble:
 

bigro007

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Congratulations on your 1st Sticky:cheers:.... I reached back out to my contact at Mahle to get all the options available for these new sets...I am trying to see if they will make some in the "H" designation for all the boosted guys and the high powered applications. The "H" designation is for High Performance and can withstand higher load. If we cant, no biggie but it doesn't hurt to try.:dribble:
does mahle do piston for you guy? right now i need does thrust washer for my sho does any one have a set either new or second end thank and can be reach me by my email [email protected] thank hopefully some one has a good new
 

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