Loved and lost, hope to love again

[RMJosh]

Awesome! Glad to hear you got it all done! Can't wait to see how you like it once it's driving! LOL

 

[Mikey]

Cant wait! Just a lil more restraint to wait over night for the rtv to cure.

Josh congrats on car of the month over on the taurus owners club. I troll that site a lot too, should join I guess. Anyway man, that picture with dealer stickers in the window, looks like you could jump right into that paint. Super deep and glossy.

 

[stephen newberg]

It was smart to roll it and balance things out. When I did mine, I went for 3 welds at 120 degrees apart to even it all further. 180 should do, though.

Hope it all cranks up smoothly for you. Sort of pun sort of intended.

pax, smn

 

[Mikey]

Today's peoject:

Wrapped the rear harness with 2800F header tape. Rewrapped all harnesses with 3m vinyl electric tape. Looks so nice!

Also:
Here are the welds on the back side of the cams. I laid that solid bead on the front cam to match the heavy weld 180 out. Kinda did 4 welds 90 degrees apart on cam 2& 3, did two longer beads 180 out on the rear most cam. I'm pretty content with it, surely a professional welder could do way better, but these cams will NOT be spinning on my watch.

Sheared two valve cover bolts ughhh, gonna run it minus 1 bolt in each cover. I do plan on getting replacements some how.

Happy new years all.

I see what you did there Stephen haha

 

[Mikey]

Valve covers & LIM on. Progress.....getting there. It's a zesty 7 degrees here in Northeast Pennsylvania. Earned my money today (work outside) .

 

[Mikey]

Ok fired it up this afternoon! 1st try forgot to connect the MAF and the Air intake temp sensor,also the coolant line that connects under the throttle body.

2nd try all good!

1st road test, left the hood off and glad I did. The dang motor was jumping about 6" every time I hit the gas. I'm assuming motor and tranny mounts. Thoughts?

 

[stephen newberg]

Yes, sounds like motor mounts. I suppose its possible its the sub frame bushings, but motor mounts are more likely, I think.

pax, smn

 

[Mikey]

Thanks for the rapid response Stephen. Doing my research on the how to @ v8sho.

Does anyone have a preference in brand, type, or seller when replacing?

Thanks everyone!

 

[SHOdded]

OEM parts are available for a good price on EBay. RockAuto is listing only Dorman replacements, and you'd have to query SHOSource/RCMAutomotive to see what they might have in stock. RCM's in PA, might have store hours, not sure.

Some sage advice:
http://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/sub-frame-bushings.84761/#post-851124

 

[Mikey]

Watch "V8 sho broke motor mount?" on YouTube

 

[SHOdded]

That is downright SCARY!

 

[RMJosh]

New motor and trans mounts will most likely fix it, check every hose for leaks!!! Also, if you would like, upgrade to Aluminum Subframe Bushings!

 

[Mikey]

That is downright SCARY!

I've never seen anything jump like that unless it was a 4x4 in low range. 1st test ride was verrry short.

 

[Mikey]

New motor and trans mounts will most likely fix it, check every hose for leaks!!! Also, if you would like, upgrade to Aluminum Subframe Bushings!

Ordered new tranny and engine mounts, got a killer deal from a friend I did a land survey for at the local parts store. Looking to do the aluminum subframe bushings in the near future. After a full atf flush.

 

[sperold]

You mean transmission drain, refill, and drain again to get the torque converter flushed. Maybe a filter change in the tranny if you remove the pan.
There are a lot of stories of people getting the forced flush (which seems to loosen all the deposited varnish and crud), and then having a transmission failure.
They may just be stories, but who knows.

 

[Mikey]

You mean transmission drain, refill, and drain again to get the torque converter flushed. Maybe a filter change in the tranny if you remove the pan.
There are a lot of stories of people getting the forced flush (which seems to loosen all the deposited varnish and crud), and then having a transmission failure.
They may just be stories, but who knows.

Heard the same stories sperold. Gonna follow the procedure RMJOSH posted earlier in this thread.

Any opinions on whether bypassing the atf coolant lines to the main radiator and adding a cooler in its place instead. Read incidents of the radiator reducing flow rate to where the OD light will begin flashing.

 

[RMJosh]

Regarding atf flush: It's a full flush, first do a filter change and refill, then the factory pump is used to push fluid out open cooler lines while pouring new fluid down the dipstick at the same time. No horror stories there, it's Ford factory procedure. After fluid flush and filter is done, reset PCM and drive extremely gentle for 50-60 miles to relearn shift points, then mildly gentle until 100 miles after change (to ensure you don't shock the tranny), then you can open her up.

Regarding the cooler: Yes and no, if you're not trying to thrash on it constantly, just keep fresh fluid and filter in it every 15-30k miles (or less depending on driving style and heat conditions) with that flush procedure. I have no issues with my factory cooler but I may install an ugpraded one at 130K miles when I flush it again.

 

[Mikey]

Thanks for the added clarity on that procedure Josh. Truth be told I rarely ever put gas pedal down past halfway. Heat is only an issue about 3-4 months a year in PA. If I do get on it I always roll into vs WOT from a dead stop or when passing.

Can anyone share stories and tips about changing engine/tranny mounts? Does the subframe need to dropped or can you sneak them in, with engine in place?
Plan on adding some chain to limit engine movement. Read a long post about the benefits and drawbacks. I like the idea.

 

[Mikey]

Changed the oil today after the cam weld and took it for about a 10mile ride. Drove it very easy as the motor mount is pretty much non existent. Even babying the throttle it sounds awsome!

Looks like my runners are getting wired open also, not functioning.

When I put it in park, got out to open the garage, jumped back in went to rev it once or twice and it stumbled then the tach went to 0? As soon as it happened, feathered the gas and it went away so I pulled in and shut it down.

Codes pulled:
p1413 sec air inject monitor ckt low input

P1518 intake manifold runner stuck open( I was manually opening and closing the runners while revving via throttle body by hand)

P1000 obd systems readiness test not complete

P1260 theft detected immobilizer active

Did not drive long enough to reach greater than 180 F so the PCM never went open loop. Not till the mounts go in.

 

[Mikey]

Snow Day Wednesday! Yes, well then I am gonna go at those engine mounts full throttle tomorrow(WOT). Have a plan to reinforce them and looking forward to sharing. Need my parts to come in first. Then you guys can see my plan....... or disaster lol.

We will know tomorrow which mounts can come out with or without dropping the subframe.

Edit: Ive been informed by one of our more expierenced members you DO need to drop the subframe.

You rose mist guys, you had me laughing when I read the post where someone refers to their RM SHO as Barney. So here's one back at ya.

Have you guys heard about Matthew McConaugheys new Lincoln?

Ya apparently it won't turn left.....only go's alright alright alright.

Seeing my self out.......to shovel snow.