Loved and lost, hope to love again

[Mikey]

Ok I test drove again today, very light throttle, still waiting for my motor mounts.

The tach dropped to zero and stayed there...if I pushed down more than a 1/4" on the gas the engine would stumble horrible.

Did some research about the codes 1413 and the effect on the charging system. So when I got home I checked the battery with an ohm meter and was only reading 8.83 at the battery posts vs 13.67, I checked before leaving the garage. The headlights were extremely dim and the interior cluster was also very dim.

So based on what my fellow sho brothers and sisters have posted I'm guessing it's the relay on the air pump or the TPS high idle service recall or just needs a new tps.

Also the abs light was coming on for a few minutes then off for a few minutes. Airbag light was on solid as well as the CEL. Codes listed above. From others posts IMHO either the alternator is shot, the wiring harness on the alternator is loose and needs replacement, or the relay on the air pump is burnt....not sure. Brand new battery also.
Thanks everyone, I'm really close here.

 

[E1]

8 volts?
Alternator is toast.

1413 - Relay to air pump is first cause followed closely by bad air pump. Find air pump plug on front edge of subframe and put 12 volts to it. If pump starts, it is bad relay. If pump no start, you need new pump.

Motor mounts. WOW. Front mount completely broken. You can change that one with just a jack under the oil pan and a couple wrenches.
Rear passenger's side mount by transaxle is a real joy. You may have to lower subframe but I don't think you need to remove subframe - it is literally 1 long bolt and one big nut underneath.

 

[Mikey]

E1 your response is greatly appreciated. After doing some research and mutimeter probing I found something. We'll the battery today before driving was at 11.38. I thought dead alternator.

OK I'm embarrassed but when replacing the surge tank I couldn't find 1 bolt.....now I'm very meticulous in labeling so I was baffled.

Guess where that one bolt is? That would be attached to the ground strap, "c'mon man!" I said to myself. No drinks tonight punishment for stupidity and overlooking that bolt.

Going to reattach now and test drive.

Seriously thank you all very much for your help. Love these cars and their uniqueness. ...same can be said about our members rock on team!

Yep that ground strap there, for some reason I think it maybe important hmmmmm.

 

[Mikey]

Trickle charged the battery, its brand new only used to move the sho around the shop. At 12.27volts, Attached the ground strap and fired the engine today.

Good new the tachometer function returned to normal.

Bad news, think the alternator is dead or the plug on it is. I probed the battery terminals and was only getting 11.8 volts....probed the alternator wire at the mega fuse, same output. I couldn't get the car out earlier to rode test.
The output (ohm meter reading) should increase with rpm right?

Lastly when I pulled the negative wire for the night the battery was at 11.98volts after giving it 2000 rpm for a few minutes.

So I am losing volts and not charging it appears......thoughts??

 

[E1]

battery light on in the dash board when running?

 

[Mikey]

battery light on in the dash board when running?

No battery light on the dash.

Our 79 power wagon was holding 12.78v and That has sat for at least a month.

I'm really beginning to.think it's just running off the battery, kind of has to be if the alternator is only kicking out less 12 volts (11.36v) Here's what weird too the alternator looks pretty new relative to the other belt druven accessories.

Maybe the violent movement with the broke mount strained a wire? Gonna get it on the road and ride with the ohm meter, will keep a log of activities.

I don't mind doing the work to change it i just don't want to pull a good alternator out replace it with a new one and have the same issue. Trying to eliminate possible collateral issues.

E1 thank you friend!

 

[stephen newberg]

If the alternator output is less than 13.5 volts, its worth changing it. Nominal, IIRC, is 14.3.

pax, smn

 

[E1]

The voltage regulator on the alternator is autonomous or self regulating. The alternator naturally tries for 14.5 volts or so.

12 volts is battery voltage only. Alternator 'should' be trying for 14.5 v.
An alternator putting down less than the battery should activate dash light.

No juice + no light starting to sound like you have a broken wire.

 

[Mikey]

Starnge as it may sound, no battwry light present ay all.....So I drive an 01 windstar for my survey vehicle. I took my ohm meter to work and checked it. The battery posts are reading 14.24.....way more than my SHO. So tomorrow I'm gonna check all grounds, the wire harness on the alternator, and the cables at the starter. I ordered an alternator just to have it standing by at my local parts store in case.

Side note, received my motor mounts. Comments? Thoughts? Was supposed to get all three but one was non-stock, aka pay up to the dealer or search the junkyard. I'm really think about making my own solid mount for the non stock one. To be honest.....I'm not sure which one is missing. The passenger rear is easily identified, but I'm not sure if I have the front passenger or the drivers side mount??? Guess I'll find out one way or another tomorrow.

Really thanks guys for the responses, you are more helpful than you know.

 

[Mikey]

And one more thing.....while I'm on the Friday night soap box. How come these guys don't five you a new nut, c'mon man jeez Louise.

Manufacturers: DEA products Inc. Ronkonkoma NY 11779, 845 south 1st St.

Part # A2934 box states "do not use air gun" mhhhh, we will use a torque wrench.

A2862.... rear passenger mount. Can literally pull the rubber out and/or spin it isnide the metal mount. Ehhhh, considering welding brake springs @12,3,6,9 o'clock both sides of mount , space permitting.

Will post pics of my redneck tech, to all ya'll that's respect not a diss....would love to live in the blue Ridge mountains isolated with a wood stove.

 

[stephen newberg]

We have lived rural for over forty years, and for much of it with just a wood stove and passive solar for heating. Nothing wrong with isolation and the forest for neighbors.

pax, smn

 

[Mikey]

That is the best and safest neighborhood I know of. That's cool Stephen, no wonder you seem like a down to earth sensible guy.

I too heat primarily from my fireplace. Electric or wood, easy choice there. I've got a great mix of seasoned black cherry, ash, and shagbark hickory. Smells like a candy store in here.

And thank you for being an active moderator on this forum.

Headed to the garage to diagnose my lack of voltage and change some motor mounts. Here we go!

 

[Mikey]

Guys would it matter if the ground strap was attached to the surge tank bolt or to the bolt into the head. In the context of a charging problem only 11.36v at the terminals right now.

Appreciate the help

 

[E1]

Nah.

Head is actually a better ground than the tank.

11.36 volts is a discharging value of a 12 volt battery, not a charging value of an alternator system regulated to 14.5 volts. You are running off plain battery with that reading. Disconnect the battery with engine running and see if it stops.

 

[Mikey]

Voltage issue reseloved:
Culprit was the harness was disconnected at the alternator. Either due to the obliterated motor mount see pic below.
Or I may have disconnected it myself trying to relieve wire harness stress and making room while welding the rear bank cams. Not sure which one but its plugged in now.

Front passenger motor mount:
The motor mount can be snuck underneath the serpentine belt with the splashguards removed. The engine must be jacked up roughly 3". The lower radiator hose must be moved our of the way. Worst part was the holes on the new mount were slightly too far apart and required drilling some material away to oblong the holes. My rear mount was in good shape. Now I just need to do the one on the drivers side.

 

[Mikey]

If you wire the butterflies open does it throw a MIL for those who have done this mod?

 

[stephen newberg]

Once, and not again after you clear it, IIRC. It was a long time ago, but I am pretty sure that is what happened.

pax, smn

 

[Mikey]

Ok I'm back in puppy love right now. Put about 100 miles on the SHO since putting back together. Someone on here compared it to driving a 1000cc vs 600cc bike. Perfect statement. V8 vs v6 sho.

Engine runs strong, suspension seems in check, I do have the check engine light again. That's OK we can figure that out.

It did a weird thing last night. First drive to work, stop for a pizza on the way home. Come back out hit the key nothing..... so I recalled how automatics have a park safety switch if you will not sure of the correct name. Anyway I bumped the shifter forward past Park a lil and we got ignition.

Question..is it the module attached to the shift linkage or needs a linkage adjust? Anyone deal with this?

Thanks as always!

 

[Mikey]

Hey guys,
Haven't had any issues with the shifter linkage and a no start condition. Still havnt got to fix the SAI pump. Other than that it Runs really smooth, very happy with after my first 1200miles. Just wanted to throw this pic up. 99 what a great year for taurus and f150's. Found my SHO's big brother today. Love this body style lighting.

 

[98SF19]

SHO's big brother

I made the mistake of street racing one long ago. What a disaster. The difference was TORQUE as we never got much over 45 mph between lights. Not that the Lightning wouldn't have pulled away at higher speeds as well. Rear wheel drive helped him as well.